Testing the Waters...

KB1SYV

KB1SYV

Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
170
Hello All,

This would be my first official foray into knife making. I just retired from the military and trying to find my footing. I am not new to knives, I carried a Benchmade and your standard mod 0 M-9. The M-9 wasn't fancy, but it quickly stopped the fight. I no longer own a home, so I unfortunately won't be able to fully explore the whole gambit of knifemaking. I am now single though, so I make all the decisions. I live in an apartment now, so I am limited by space and environment. I welcome any suggestions on how to begin, that takes into consideration my current living situation since it's not going to change. Thank You in advance.

Regards.

Jeff
 
You should contact Indian George to see if you could stop by his shop and learn a few things. He's in MA, so it shouldn't be too long of a road trip from CT. I haven't actually met him, but in some emails back and forth, he seems to be a nice guy and I'm sure he'd be willing to help you out.
 
for now get a vice, a hand drill a set of file guides and some nicholson files and get busy!

When ya get a place, build a No weld grinder, get a drill press and get some good belts like Norton blaze and norton norax and get busy!
 
Go Mike,

I appreciate the feedback, but when I say I'm finding my footing again, no lie. While I was overseas, my ex sold my 2000 Ford f250, so right now I am using foot power and public transportation. MA is a little steep for me right now:)
 
You have a open invite for a visit. To bad you haven't got vehicle, because I have Hammer-Ins planned for April and May.
How close are you to 95????? I have people coming from NY and NJ. Also Mace is in CT.
 
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Jeff seem we have two of the same hobbies. I started making knives in one bedroom apt. I had a bench in my backyard that was 18 x 24 with a vise, I still use the bench. I kept my equipment in a tote in the bathroom. I had small drll press, 1x30 sander, 1/2 hp Buffer, dremel, and side grinder.

Jim - KE4OZO
 
yeah; if you live in a complex that isn't too strict about noise, some belt sanders/grinders can be [relatively] quiet, and are light enough to haul outdoors.

i do all my profiling on a bench grinder, and most of my beveling, flat grinding, etc on a 4x36" craftsman belt sander.

it's not the best setup, but it works, and it's pretty cheap.
 
When I started , I made a small portable work bench and picked up a clamp on vise . Put that in front of my chair and went to filing the blades . This way I got to sit and work and keep my gin & tonic on the table next to me , listen to music or had the TV going .
 
Sticky said:
for now get a vice, a hand drill a set of file guides and some nicholson files and get busy!

When ya get a place, build a No weld grinder, get a drill press and get some good belts like Norton blaze and norton norax and get busy!
Click to expand...

Thanks Sticky,

I'll want to buy and invest in equipment that I can utilize inside my dinky efficiency. I live right on Main st, so I don't have a secure place outside that I could set up a bench and vice. It would all have to be inside my abode.
 
indian george said:
You have a open invite for a visit. To bad you haven't got vehicle, because I have Hammer-Ins planned for April and May.
How close are you to 95????? I have people coming from NY and NJ. Also Mace is in CT.
Click to expand...

Thank you Indian George,

Going north into CT 95 turns into 91. I live about 6-10 miles east of 91. I live in Middletown, which is situated between I-91 and Rte 9. As a matter of fact, the on ramp for Rte 9 is 1/4 mile from where I live. If it wasn't out of anyone's way, I would be eternally grateful for an opportunity like that! When would it be? How much? Is it one day or over a weekend?

Thanks Again

Jeff
 
canid said:
yeah; if you live in a complex that isn't too strict about noise, some belt sanders/grinders can be [relatively] quiet, and are light enough to haul outdoors.

i do all my profiling on a bench grinder, and most of my beveling, flat grinding, etc on a 4x36" craftsman belt sander.

it's not the best setup, but it works, and it's pretty cheap.
Click to expand...

I know it would be definitely slower going, but could I choose to use a quieter method like doing it by hand? I'm not into torturing myself, but I want to keep the neighbors happy.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
BlackToe Knives said:
Jeff seem we have two of the same hobbies. I started making knives in one bedroom apt. I had a bench in my backyard that was 18 x 24 with a vise, I still use the bench. I kept my equipment in a tote in the bathroom. I had small drll press, 1x30 sander, 1/2 hp Buffer, dremel, and side grinder.

Jim - KE4OZO
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

I've just started with the amateur radio. I just struck a deal with my super to allow me to put up a 4 band horizontal dipole on the roof. Might get my first qso by next month.

I did invest in a Dremel a couple of month's back, still in the box. Could I use that as a replacement for a noisy sander and grinder?

73,

Jeff
 
ONeill said:
When I started , I made a small portable work bench and picked up a clamp on vise . Put that in front of my chair and went to filing the blades . This way I got to sit and work and keep my gin & tonic on the table next to me , listen to music or had the TV going .
Click to expand...


Jack,

That is probably close to what I will have the space to do. I know I will never forge my own blades, but I'm optimistic that I would be able to take a piece of steel, cut out a blade, file, grind, heat and temper in my small apartment. Is that a realistic expectation?

Thanks

Jeff
 
KB1SYV said:
I did invest in a Dremel a couple of month's back, still in the box. Could I use that as a replacement for a noisy sander and grinder?
Click to expand...

Likely not for much having to do with putting the bevels on a knife. If you're looking for a quieter option you could always go the file route. A little slower but on the same token you can't mess up as bad as fast as you can on a grinder. You could always use the super high tech method I did. Which was to c-clamp a 1x2 to a bench then used a few spring clamps to hold the knife flat with when filing.
 
I've been searching around, but I can't find any specific info on what I should get initially for files and what kind and what size drill bit's are needed when cutting the blade from a sheet of steel. Basically, I could really use some suggestions on specific to tools that are on the must have list and then I'll make my way to the nice to have list. Any suggestions and advice is welcome.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
A hacksaw will work for cutting out the basic shape(an angle grinder is faster but more expensive and noisier). Any "regular" drill bit will work fine for drilling through most steel. As far as files Nicholson is one of the best makers out there. A large coarse one is great for hogging off a lot of metal. Get a file card and be anal about cleaning it every few strokes. You'll also want some finer ones to help smooth things out after the initial use of the coarse one. If you're planning on having any curves in the handle or guard area you'll want a half round. And if you're ever planning on putting a choil on a knife you'll want a chainsaw file or 2. They're also helpful for cutting in plunge lines. You can find a great how to on making a knife, done by a member here which has a lot of step by step info.
 
In addition to what others have suggested:
Hopefully you have a steady, ridgid table or workbench of some sort, if you don't this will quickly become a source of frustration. Filing and sawing by hand requires that your work be held very steady or a lot of your effort will be wasted wobbling the table around. If you have to, use plywood panels or diagonal braces to steady up the legs on your workbench/table.
Something as simple as a c-clamp can be used to hold the blade to the table but if you don't have one already, a good bench vice should probably be on your short list as well.
If you use fully annealed blade steel and start with reasonably thin stock, shaping by hand isn't necessarily as slow as it sounds. As long as you aren't used to power equipment already, that is...going back would be a bit of a drag:grumpy:
Do you have any thoughts about how you are going to get the blades heat treated?
I will go out of my way to help out a service member/veteran when the opportunity presents itself so I will be happy to offer what advice I can and will send you a chunk of blade steel or handle material or something if it helps you get started.
 
Fletch Helical,

Thanks for that info. These files are assigned different numbers for each kind of file, right? If so, what particular Nicholson #'s are initially required to get going. For drill bit's, are there a particular kind and size that are used? I want to get an idea what I will need so I don't end up having to order a tool in the middle of a project.

Thanks

Jeff
 
Some specifics I would want in your shoes:
24 tpi hacksaw blades are probably going to be the most useful-18 tpi blades are good for thicker stock but will dull fast on thinner stuff. Decent quality blades are usually worth the extra money, I like Lennox brand but have not tried a lot of others so I could just be a sucker here.
Files have already been mentioned, I would get the biggest Nicholson double-cut mill bastard you can (10" is the biggest I can seem to find locally, I would rather have 12"s) and the same size single cut. Buy handles for them or make some, you will know why soon if you don't. I make mine out of softwood lumber, drill a hole the size of the end of the file tang, wobble the bit side to side a little to enlarge the end of the hole, and tap the file into it with a hammer gently until it is seated firmly. Super glue if needed.
You will probably want 3/16" and 1/4" drill bits for sure, add in other sizes as needed. High speed steel bits (standard metal bits) will work fine for most annealed blade steels.
 
Justin King said:
In addition to what others have suggested:
Hopefully you have a steady, ridgid table or workbench of some sort, if you don't this will quickly become a source of frustration. Filing and sawing by hand requires that your work be held very steady or a lot of your effort will be wasted wobbling the table around. If you have to, use plywood panels or diagonal braces to steady up the legs on your workbench/table.
Something as simple as a c-clamp can be used to hold the blade to the table but if you don't have one already, a good bench vice should probably be on your short list as well.
If you use fully annealed blade steel and start with reasonably thin stock, shaping by hand isn't necessarily as slow as it sounds. As long as you aren't used to power equipment already, that is...going back would be a bit of a drag:grumpy:
Do you have any thoughts about how you are going to get the blades heat treated?
I will go out of my way to help out a service member/veteran when the opportunity presents itself so I will be happy to offer what advice I can and will send you a chunk of blade steel or handle material or something if it helps you get started.
Click to expand...

Hi Justin,

The idea hawks are still circling in my head as to what I will use as a viable bench. Space is extremely limited. I do plan on finding a used/new 120v heat treating furnace. I don't have anyone I can send it to to heat treat, so I just might start with kit's until I come up with a grand to spend on a furnace.

Thanks for your response,

Jeff
 
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