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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
TGLB just arrived...awewome blade!
- Thread starter taiChiFighter
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I phoned Lexi today and was thrilled by the fact that they are going to make the exchange as painless as possible (even going so far as to pay for the shipping on my end). Very nice to see this kind of business ethic still exists in some companies.
ok, so should there be a bigger gap or its all within tolerances? I see both types on various pictures, yours just happen to differ on both sides..
Glad to hear Lexi took care of you. That was expected..
Glad to hear Lexi took care of you. That was expected..
I phoned Lexi today and was thrilled by the fact that they are going to make the exchange as painless as possible (even going so far as to pay for the shipping on my end). Very nice to see this kind of business ethic still exists in some companies.
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All the company pictures show a "lip" around the blood groove which is necessary for knife sharpeners where the knife sits in a guide. If the lip doesn't exist then the angle the knife sits at will vary depending on how far back the grind has gone. If you don't use a guided knife sharpener like the Edge Pro it really isn't an issue.
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Interesting, my groove does have a lip all the way around, and on both sides of the blade though not quite the same. Probably 1/32 on one side, and 1/64 on the other (between the groove and the grind), never even thought to look. I don't use a guide system anymore, so should not be a problem anyway, but this was good info for me!
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1/32" vs 1/64" won't make any difference because, either way the knife still sit flat in the guide. It's only a problem when the grind extends past the blood groove because that edge will not be flush. (sort of hard to explain unless you actually have sharpener with a guide)
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On my TGLB, the hollow grind on the logo side toward the bottom started beneath the fuller (blood groove) and began to taper into the fuller while on the other side, the hollow grind was a nice straight line across the fuller. I ended up sending mine in to have it re-ground so both sides matched. Admittedly for me, it was more a cosmetic issue than anything else and I was kinda embarrassed to to send it back in but Garth told me he would re-grind it no charge.
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Hey, here's a thought! Maybe this is a "feature!"
You know, with a guide system, you can do your own asymmetrical edge
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Hey, here's a thought! Maybe this is a "feature!"
You know, with a guide system, you can do your own asymmetrical edge
Stop that! Now your just messing with me.
Ps I think they might be a little pissed that I started this thread. I asked if they could sharpen the finger choil to create a 90 degree edge that I could use it for a fire steel and was told that it would weaken the knife too much at that point. I can't really see how removing 1/64" to create a sharp edge could possibly be a problem but ... c'est la vie. I guess I should have kept my big mouth shut.
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If the cnc uses clamps to hold the blade blanks and the design of the machine requires the manual movement of flipping them over to do the other side. Well lots of variables come to mind on how easy it is to get off the slightest of tolerances. Not to mention the forces of the tooling on the steel. It could possibly knock the piece out of alignment from side to side. Really depends on their machine's. Would love to see a picture of the shop.
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It's odd that it has only been noticed on the TGLB and not on other knives with fullers (or at least not reported).
One of my TGLBs is perfect. The other has a slight angle on one side, and it just barely misses getting into the fuller. Cosmetic and not an issue for me. They were ordered separately.
One of my TGLBs is perfect. The other has a slight angle on one side, and it just barely misses getting into the fuller. Cosmetic and not an issue for me. They were ordered separately.
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I sent my knife back to Busse a few weeks ago. They sent me a new one promptly (it only took them a week to make me up a new one). Considering the fact that I had to wait 8 weeks for my first one it sort of worried me that they may have rushed the job and been sloppy again. Sure enough, I noticed that the cutting edge wasn't straight and appears to have a sloppy sharpening job. Am I making I making a mountain out of a molehill or should one expect better from a $325 knife? Tell me what you guys think?
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well that I would have more trouble with than the original issue.
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I've just noticed the knife is flawed. Instead of stopping just short of the the blood channel, the hollow grind on one side goes slightly past the edge of the channel. This means there is no lip around channel (like there is on the other side of the knife). This result it that, on that side only, there isn't a uniformly flat spot to clamp or lay the knife for sharpening (I have an Edge Pro Apex sharpening system). This also means that, when placed on the sharpener guide, the angle the knife lies at on one side will be different than the other side (which will cause an asymmetrical edge). What a drag.
I guess that means I'll have to send it back and, at best, wait 7-8 weeks all over again or... move on to something else.
This may not be what you want to hear, nor am I saying it is what you should do, just what I would do.
Keeping in mind that the attached pic makes the actual recurve grind look at least twice as bad as it really is due to the mirroring/magnification effect of the angle of the shadow (my shadow at that light angle is a couple of feet taller than I am), this could be fixed on my edge pro in less time than it took to type up a post here and a separate new thread about the exact same issue, despite what the stickies on this forum instruct us to do. :foot:
It looks like the very last tiny portion of edge near the choil just needed another few seconds on the grinder which can be remedied on either end.
I am certain the shop would gladly sharpen that knife to meet your standards since they already demonstrated the desire to help you, so that really isn't in question.
The question then is if this new one will work with your edge pro or not which was your original issue specific to the first blade?
Waiting time also seems to be an issue, so if it will work with your edge pro you could just fix that last 1/2" to 3/4" in a matter of minutes and have exactly what you want without any more headaches, and get in some more practice with the sharpening system at the same time which never hurts one's pool of skills, even if they already are pretty good.
There are those that will argue you should get exactly what you want or paid for... which technically you did, as neither of those issues would effect the function of the blade itself in a way which would cause it to fail, but it doesn't look like the ones pictured in advertising, so there is that, which starts heading into the mountain/molehill territory, part of why I thankfully don't work in customer service.
Either way, I hope you wind up with what makes you happy.
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I think Tim has pretty much summed this issue (or not) up. Only YOU can however decide if it is an issue to you or not. From all you posting on the subject you imply that this blade is to be a "hard use knife", the "issue" with the edge will not have any effect on that function and a couple of sharpening sessions yu wont notice it anymore I would think.
Any hand finished knife will have slight differences here and there. Its not as if a machine is punching them out of a sheat of metal.
What they told you is correct. As some well known manufacturers learned the hard way, adding notches and dents to the spine weaken the knife. You may be able to get away with it if done very mildly (heck, you could do it yourself with a file in 5 minutes) but I understand why Busse having the reputation it has for building the toughest knife there is will refuse to knowingly make their knife any weaker or add a potential stress point as in this request you made.
FerFAL
Stop that! Now your just messing with me.
Ps I think they might be a little pissed that I started this thread. I asked if they could sharpen the finger choil to create a 90 degree edge that I could use it for a fire steel and was told that it would weaken the knife too much at that point. I can't really see how removing 1/64" to create a sharp edge could possibly be a problem but ... c'est la vie. I guess I should have kept my big mouth shut.
What they told you is correct. As some well known manufacturers learned the hard way, adding notches and dents to the spine weaken the knife. You may be able to get away with it if done very mildly (heck, you could do it yourself with a file in 5 minutes) but I understand why Busse having the reputation it has for building the toughest knife there is will refuse to knowingly make their knife any weaker or add a potential stress point as in this request you made.
FerFAL