Thanks Brand Wakizashi

Crag the Brewer said:
Haha...Yeah, maybe, idk? Stabbing should be ergonomicall regardless orientation....

*I'm not sure If you were being sardonic?
Click to expand...
I was only giving you an honest critique. I’ve swung a sword or two and that’s my honest opinion. I’d hate for you to build it out and hate it.

I’m with David on this one. Nothing about this needs to feel good in “reverse grip stabbing motions”.😄
 
David Mary said:
You implied it. so thanks for nothing.

But have you ever held a sword in reverse grip? The act alone should tell you it's a safety liability.
Click to expand...

I haven't watched the video yet, but will later today.... He might be proving me wrong, but I can see a few reasons for it.
 
AntDog AntDog
David Mary David Mary

If I made No guard on top, for what reason?
Generally guards are quiet prominent like the little sketch below
 
Nothing at all wrong with a guard on a sword. I only commented on the thumb ramp leading up to the guard area.

If it were my design I’d keep the handle nice and neutral and put a good looking guard on it. No flare up to or from the guard.

The cool thing is, it not my design. Do it how you want and see how it does.
 
AntDog said:
Nothing at all wrong with a guard on a sword. I only commented on the thumb ramp leading up to the guard area.

If it were my design I’d keep the handle nice and neutral and put a good looking guard on it. No flare up to or from the guard.

The cool thing is, it not my design. Do it how you want and see how it does.
Click to expand...

Some of my "logic" is I'm also adding material in a sometimes weaker area. I have fillets instead of stress risers. More material, softer stress impacts. With "guard" and hopefully easier manfacturability.
-im assuming this is just going to be chopped and beaten, and cutting Shit that we like to do.
Fun stuff.

I do love all the comments, and criticism.
Please keep them coming.
*As you can see I already tweaked it, because of everyone's thoughts.

Thanks.
 
David Mary said:
That's my motive here. Likewise on the handle. I tried making "swords" with knife shaped handles, but they just get in the way of maneuverability. Neutral is better.
Click to expand...

I'm the biggest proponent of neutral, Boring handles.... I don't understand how this one isn't neutral?
 
This limits two handed versatility. It is forcing, which is the opposite of neutral.

1754767534066.png
 
I see. How long is the total grip area? The blade itself looks to be 25"-26"? Did you specify stock thickness? I am wondering if this is going to wind up more chopper than sword in handling?

Actually, I also wanted to ask why the choice of 14C28N, which is more optimized for wear resistance and corrosion resistance over toughness compared with AEB-L, which I would think is the more suitable stainless?
 
All good questions.

Not sure what the general views are, but Me personally....I consider AEB_L, NitroV, and 14C28N to be the Same ... I know they technically aren't....but they are close enough, I use them interchangeably. I don't believe people can tell the difference.... Obviously I label them accordingly. * I buy them as to the sizes and availability, no other reason, I Love them all.

Nor do I care about edge wear resistance with these. I could care less.
These need to be tough, and fine edge. Stainless is a bonus, but not high priority.

Grip area a bit more than 9".

Overall 36"

Blade about 25+

Thickness about .177" Oops....wrong dimensions, I'm editing to .158" thick.

I agree with you about the concerns of being too much of a "Chopper". And why I adjusted my pommel area to Mecha's rec
 
Last edited:
I'm super excited for you to make a sword, and for such a great cause!

Crag the Brewer said:
Not sure what the general views are, but Me personally....I consider AEB_L, NitroV, and 14C28N to be the Same ... I know they technically aren't....but they are close enough, I use them interchangeably. I don't believe people can tell the difference.... Obviously I label them accordingly. * I buy them as to the sizes and availability, no other reason, I Love them all.

Nor do I care about edge wear resistance with these. I could care less.
These need to be tough, and fine edge. Stainless is a bonus, but not high priority.
Click to expand...

If it's not too late, I would urge you to switch to AEB-L, then, given that it is the tougher of these three alloys at the same hardness, and more aligned with your stated goals. Though it probably won't be a huge problem if you don't.

Crag the Brewer said:
Grip area a bit more than 9".

Overall 36"

Blade about 25+

Thickness about .177"

I agree with you about the concerns of being too much of a "Chopper". And why I adjusted my pommel area to Mecha's rec
Click to expand...

With these specs and that profile I think you're going to have an awful lot of distal tapering and fullering to do to get that point to be nimble. If it were my project (I know it's not, but you did welcome opinions/learning), I'd drop it down to something between .125" and .140" at most, with a full convex grind and a longer handle, closer to 12" grip area to make it handle more like a sword. That's assuming no fullering. Just my opinion.
 
There are reasons the katana handle is shaped like it is .

Because of the ways that are used to grip :

~3.20min Shows why pommel area and handle shape (and length) is critical .

But this is your creation . You should make what pleases you .
 
David Mary said:
I'm super excited for you to make a sword, and for such a great cause!



If it's not too late, I would urge you to switch to AEB-L, then, given that it is the tougher of these three alloys at the same hardness, and more aligned with your stated goals. Though it probably won't be a huge problem if you don't.



With these specs and that profile I think you're going to have an awful lot of distal tapering and fullering to do to get that point to be nimble. If it were my project (I know it's not, but you did welcome opinions/learning), I'd drop it down to something between .125" and .140" at most, with a full convex grind and a longer handle, closer to 12" grip area to make it handle more like a sword. That's assuming no fullering. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...


Oops.... I screwed up. Looking at my preliminary order sheet, I try to size out everything on the bars first. I was looking at the wrong steel.

The steel from Admiral is Actually .158" initially.
Sorry.

Thanks
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I'm not seeing it as a thumb ramp. I generally Hate thumb ramps, and I'm agreeing with you....

But I'm seeing it as a integral guard.
That large radius feels good against the palm in reverse grip stabbing motions.
See pic.

Click to expand...


I agree with Antdog about the ramp thing. A hump like that or similar embellishments can make someone lose grip of a sword handle while cutting. What makes for a nice grip in a knife can turn into a prying wedge against the fingers on a sword.

The other thing is, in the photo above, the centerline of the handle is above the center of the blade. Like they're misaligned. This is more of a "hacking/chopping/cutting knife" design orientation. For a sword, it's waaaaay better if the handle is aligned with the blade in one smooth centerline that flows through the whole thing end-to-end.

If the handle is aligned smoothly with the blade, and the guard shape is the same top and bottom and it's oriented 90 degrees to the blade and handle, it will be not only function way better as a sword and cut more smoothly and with more control, it will have more katana-like profile and look!
 
Mecha said:
I agree with Antdog about the ramp thing. A hump like that or similar embellishments can make someone lose grip of a sword handle while cutting. What makes for a nice grip in a knife can turn into a prying wedge against the fingers on a sword.

The other thing is, in the photo above, the centerline of the handle is above the center of the blade. Like they're misaligned. This is more of a "hacking/chopping/cutting knife" design orientation. For a sword, it's waaaaay better if the handle is aligned with the blade in one smooth centerline that flows through the whole thing end-to-end.

If the handle is aligned smoothly with the blade, and the guard shape is the same top and bottom and it's oriented 90 degrees to the blade and handle, it will be not only function way better as a sword and cut more smoothly and with more control, it will have more katana-like profile and look!
Click to expand...

I can match, adjust centerlines.
I'll look to see what that's like.
Thanks.
*Edit, I thought I was matching top spine, but I can lower it a hair
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Mecha Mecha
So what kinda blade height should I be looking at?
Click to expand...

For a 26" blade with 10" handle?

I'd say about 1.5" would look very nice! And then with bevels that reach 2/3 of the way up toward the spine with a flat and spine ridge making up the remaining 1/3 of the blade height, it will not only be an awesome cutter, it will be even further reminiscent of a katana. At 1.5" it will also have a smooth, non-jarring look when it transitions to the handle which is a bit narrower, of course. I mean as opposed to how a super wide blade of like 2" would look.
 
Mecha said:
For a 26" blade with 10" handle?

I'd say about 1.5" would look very nice! And then with bevels that reach 2/3 of the way up toward the spine with a flat and spine ridge making up the remaining 1/3 of the blade height, it will not only be an awesome cutter, it will be even further reminiscent of a katana. At 1.5" it will also have a smooth, non-jarring look when it transitions to the handle which is a bit narrower, of course. I mean as opposed to how a super wide blade of like 2" would look.
Click to expand...

Mine is drawn to around 1.6"
Sori about .690"
If at around 1.5 that would align the handle like you suggested

I grind flat to convex. Very low angles.
I think it will beyond a good cutter
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top