The $11 full tang scandi

Rupestris

Rupestris

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Joined
Mar 1, 2006
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29,937
I had posted an update of my Cobbler project in the "making a scandi on the cheap" thread earlier this week. Well, I finished it up yesterday. Total cost was $11.

Cobbler blade from Ragweedforge - $7.50
Shipping - $1.50
One 1/4" coarse Dremel bit - $2.00 (used it up)
Scales - Scrap oak (probably from a shipping pallet)
Lanyard tube - white Corian w/brass insert - Free. It was an ink pen up 'til Wednesday.
Lanyard - scrap length of leather with a piece of shed Whitetail antler.

Total - $11 and some elbow grease.

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Thanks for looking,

Chris
 
Nice Job on that one! I might have to look into making one of those for winter projects.
 
Nice! I've got one of those blades lying around waiting for me to slap on some scales. You've inspired me!
 
Absolutely wonderful job Chris. That's a perfect little shrafting knife. I've ordered a lot from Ragweed, but somehow missed this blade. You've inspired me to try my hand at one too.
 
How did you affix the scales? I don't see any pin holes and it's a slab construction...?
 
totally great job, can't beat that for the price plus you have the pride of knowing you did it yourself. What kind of steel is that and what and was it already heated treated?
 
Wow, great job!

That's a terrific looking bushcrafter. Congrats on the nice work.

I love those little Cobbler's blades. They give you a great starting point to work from. I think I have made around ten of them!

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All the best,

- Mike
 
SWEET!:thumbup:
I love "home-made" stuff! It's good to see the care that you put into putting that together. It may only have been $11 in materials, but the thought, care and time that went into it is what made the difference between an $11 POS and a beautiful and functional tool.

Very resourceful and creative.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Thanks everyone. I have a feeling this one won't be my last.

Hannibal, Its a high carbon steel from Sweden. Heat treated throughout. I'm going to have to get some better drill bits for the next one or go through a bunch of dremel bits.

Spooky, its kinda in between. The blade from tip to scales is 3 -1/8". Handle is right at 4".

FortyTwoBlades said:
How did you affix the scales? I don't see any pin holes and it's a slab construction...?
Click to expand...

After using the dremel tool to put the lanyard hole in this ridiculously hard steel, I decided not to add any more pins.

The slabs are held on with 3M Panel Bond. Its an automotive grade 2-part epoxy that is used to put quarter panels on cars. If its strong enough to pass government crash test ratings, it should hold the scales on pretty good. :p. This stuff is strong. I'll be sure to post any type of failure if it happens as this is my first knife to use it.

Mentor, you've got me beat! Lookin good.

Thanks again for the comments guys!
 
Rupestris said:
Thanks everyone. I have a feeling this one won't be my last.

Hannibal, Its a high carbon steel from Sweden. Heat treated throughout. I'm going to have to get some better drill bits for the next one or go through a bunch of dremel bits.
Click to expand...

I recommend using a dremel cut-off wheel to create holes in the tang (sort of like skeletonizing it). Then you can add handle pins - so long as the pins fit snugly through the handle slabs, it will look good and add some additional strength to the slab-tang bond. Alternatively, you can go for cheap concrete drill bits, and use a drill press (be sure to clamp it securely!). They wear out pretty fast, though - that hardened steel is, well, hard.

Again, great work. Looks like it's begging to be used on some fuzz sticks.

- Mike
 
You might want to pick up a couple Solid Carbide bits. The will drill quite a few holes if you don't crowd them. I have a 3/16 one that has drilled 50-60 holes in knife blades.
 
One of these bare blades would really be great taped to a rifle stock or something similar, as a 'just in case'.
 
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