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I was able to drive the FI deep into hard oak by beating on the tang extension with a stick (English for Baton).
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Outstanding! (applause)
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I was able to drive the FI deep into hard oak by beating on the tang extension with a stick (English for Baton).
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In the process of industrial design, when a product is created that tries to be perfect, tens of thousands of possibilities will be offered, but only a few hit the target. The F1 is one and in my opinion the S1 is the other. But these are production knives. The ideal F1 or S1 has a grip that is custom designed for its user.
Do you have any idea what the tang looks like under the handle?
No, sorry. Benchmade say it is a full tang, but I'm not sure how full ..
Ah, the F1, it's made of fine Swedish knife steel - not! It's a product of Japan. And, what if you aren't crazy about rubber-like grips? The Micarta will set you back two and a half times as much as that base F1. I am sorry, but a Bark River 'Gameskeeper', made in MI's UP, is a far better buy - and could save you nearly a C-note in Micarta. Yeah, it's thicker - .215", longer - 4.25" blade, heavier - 7 oz, and no one will ever complain about the grip being too small. In basic Micarta, it's a deal - and there are others, too. I have no doubt that Rc 58 laminated VG-10 is excellent - but BRK&T has Rc 59-60 A-2 - hard to beat, even if it is carbon steel - and still, a great convex edge.
I have some real Swedish steel here - and no place/need for an F1 - you may have it. I just don't like rubber-like handles!
Stainz