The "Ask Nathan a Question" Thread

TommyGun56 said:
Nathan, Believe you stated the next Pre-Order would be tentatively scheduled for December 29th, Is this still a go? Have you decided what (knife) will be offered?

Thanks
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Yes it is. Probably going to be a chopper this time. Either the upcoming Medium Chopper, or perhaps a production version of the Behemoth Chopper.
 
I own a Wicked Edge guided sharpening system and I love using it on Delta 3V...just wondering, have you any advice/experience with the best direction to move the hones to grind the edge on D3V...that is, edge trailing, edge leading, or scrubbing?

Have you noted any difference that's worth mentioning in the scratch patterns, performance, apex stability, etc. with the direction you grind? I generally stick with edge trailing with the scratch pattern oriented toward the handle when maintaining, but I'm considering knocking down the secondary a click or two on my EDC and I find it easier/faster to "scrub" when I need to hog off a bit more in one sitting. Almost like a Japanese style grinding method-- only with the blade fixed. Thanks :)
 
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I don't have a WE, Petey, but I have used each of those methods at one time or another. I'll say that as long as the edge is fully apexed and burr free, there were no appreciable differences in performance. Generally, I will use some type of edge leading stroke when reprofiling or taking off a lot of steel. The edge trailing stroke works well on my final stone to clean up any inconsistency or tiny burr remnant. Then of course the strop is done edge trailing.
 
I'm same as Ratman, I do edge leading in any kind of freehand stone sharpening that I do. I will always finish up and further refine the edge with edge trailing strokes on the compound-loaded leather strops. I don't shoot for too much of a high mirror polish, so I'm not into emulsions on glass or anything like that. For a user edge, I'll stop with the 1200 grit DMT stone, follow up with stropping and then bare kangaroo hide for the final touch for that sticky sharp edge!
 
Thought the UF had a shot at a pre-order (?). We've had a surplus of choppers this year, and a scarcity of Fighters. More. Fighters. Please.

Ok, I just wanted to be the first person to use the word "surplus" on the CPK forum. ;)

Is the Shiv officially retired, or could it make another run?
 
Dear Santa Nathan (too soon? Nah, almost Dec!), what are going to be the tangible and visual differences between the initially produced "proto" BCs and the planned production BCs, if any?
 
Casinostocks said:
I'm going to make a statement based on my observation which I hope does not turn into a controversy but as I'm a CPK fanboy, here it goes:

Note the high saber grind on the HDFK as opposed to the other two. I don't know the stock thickness of the other two, but assuming that the GSO and the HDFK will be more or less about the same thickness and the Busse traditionally a tad thicker, I can state with utmost certainty that the HDFK will prevail in cutting and slicing with its 20 dps factory edge. As for hacking and batoning, the Busse being the bigger and the heavier blade may win the day but I can not fathom that the HDFK will cr*p the bed sheets either! As for clean lines, just notice the smooth radial line (I forgot the name of it) of the HDFK and then the Busse as compared to the sharp drop off on the GSO.

So what am I saying? You tell me but you ought to get one :p
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Very close guess :)... the HDFK is the thickest of the group at .22. The 7/7 is .18 and the SHe2 is the Clip point variant (from the Grab bags) and is around .21 - still the heaviest of the group.

Everything else is spot on!! Love the HDFK(s)!

upload_2017-11-28_11-40-37.png

Cheers!
C.
 
Standard78 said:
Nice group of knives bud.

That HDFK is surprisingly bigger than I thought! It looks so streamlined compared to what I’m used to.
That 7/7 looks like it could be a stabby bugger and the SHE2 looks like a beast.
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Thanks man! They're pretty nice..

In for a Medium chopper too!

Cheers!
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
I own a Wicked Edge guided sharpening system and I love using it on Delta 3V...just wondering, have you any advice/experience with the best direction to move the hones to grind the edge on D3V...that is, edge trailing, edge leading, or scrubbing?

Have you noted any difference that's worth mentioning in the scratch patterns, performance, apex stability, etc. with the direction you grind? I generally stick with edge trailing with the scratch pattern oriented toward the handle when maintaining, but I'm considering knocking down the secondary a click or two on my EDC and I find it easier/faster to "scrub" when I need to hog off a bit more in one sitting. Almost like a Japanese style grinding method-- only with the blade fixed. Thanks :)
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FWIW, if you are stropping, you finish edge training, so any risk you assumed while doing edge leading on stones, you probably removed those teeth through your progression of removing scratches with a strop. Unless you went to 1000 creating teeth then just like 10 passes with leather or something where you barely worked the apex. But if you left the arms in the same position between stones and strops, you for sure are removing those teeth when stropping. Personally I always do a vertical scrubbing motion when getting things set where I want it on coarse stones, then trailing after that.

I also have a WE, btw, working on a big order for it with Kyle @ WE now actually.

Need a couple different items, trying to get my user FK to pass hanging hair 5 test. Will post when I do.
 
Ratman79 said:
... Then of course the strop is done edge trailing.
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yup...I've never had much luck with edge leading on my strop :eek::p

But seriously, I don't strop many of my knives. I'm one of the toothy edge guys. I have polished the edge on my SYKCO 1311 because it's my go-to chopper and buster. For me, that's the best use I get outta polished edges-- for bustin out chips-- kinda like usage of an ax is how I think about it.

But on a slicer, I want micro teeth. It's overly simplistic <like me:p> but I think of that like a sort of very very fine saw blade.

Imagine trying to chop down a tree with a saw or trying to saw with an ax. So, for me...polished for choppers & chippers...toothy for slicers. Again-- over-simplified, but that's been my experience.

thanks for the advice from everyone's experience.
 
You're right Petey; I do the same thing as far as not going super polished for my final edges. Stopping at DMT 600 or its equivalent followed by a total of 10--5 per side--swipes on leather loaded w/ 1 micron cbn or diamond seems to offer an aggressive edge good for slicing rope, cardboard etc. The minimal stropping serves to yield a very sharp and long lasting edge.
 
Toothy mirror polish on my setup is diamond to 1000, bring strops down a couple degrees per side, and strop lightly @ 1micron. Gives that fine toothy edge but still makes the edge shine.
 
Exactly Justin ^^

I used to opt for the 8k Shapton Glass finish followed by cbn down to 1/8 micron. Now, that edge would be devastatingly sharp, but it was not good for everything. Also, after all the time and effort spent refining to that level, even modest use would ruin my mirror shine and erase my efforts with the sub micron stropping. The "insanely sharp" would become "very sharp," and the shine I was so proud of was lost.

IME, those super polished edges are great for chopping and shaving type cuts. They work for slicing too, but the toothy edge takes it. It takes a lot less time to produce and lasts much longer too for everyday stuff. At work, I have found my toothy xm18 3.5 to be invaluable. I keep the 20cv blade at 600 grit and it lasts.

1k is an excellent place to stop too. I think that the teeth start to be polished away starting at around the 2k-3k mark depending on the system and medium--diamond vs "stone" in Shapton or ceramics like Spyderco's bench stones for example. Stropping like you do after 1k yields a very nice edge. Great capacity for cutting and you get some of that nice shine too:D
 
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