the best serrations in your opiniion

Pristerognathus said:
How do you sharpen those round convex serrations?

About other serrations I red that in order to sharpen you use a tapered round file, finds the spot where it's radius matches the serration. Then you mark it with a pen 1cm in each direction from that point and then you just drag it forward and backward along that marked area. Is that the correct method? If so then sharpening serrations doesn't sound as difficult as said to be. :)
Click to expand...

I suppose it could be done that way but that seems to be an easy way to take off a little too much metal. I just use the corners of the sharpmaker rods and sharpen freehand very carefully only on the side on which the serrations are ground making sure the corner of the stone gets into each and every serrations. I then cut off the burr by making a single light pass on my ultrafine stone on the non ground side.
 
Victorinox. Shallow, uniform in size, thin edge bevels make for effective, easy to sharpen serrations. Even better, the combo edges have the serrations on the tip end rather than the pivot end, which I find to be much more useful.
 
Pristerognathus said:
How do you sharpen those round convex serrations?

About other serrations I red that in order to sharpen you use a tapered round file, finds the spot where it's radius matches the serration. Then you mark it with a pen 1cm in each direction from that point and then you just drag it forward and backward along that marked area. Is that the correct method? If so then sharpening serrations doesn't sound as difficult as said to be. :)
Click to expand...



Youtube
http://youtu.be/hjzcMrlaP58
 
i have a few sertaed benchmades and i like them a bit....... i have never tried spyderco but i might need to try out a kife with them now. in general i like a plain edge just because it is easy to resharpen, leaves more cutting edge and i think it looks better
 
The Spyderedge by a landslide. This is the knife that made me a believer 20 years ago.
IMG_20101127_154426.jpg



Dan
 
The only two kinds of serrations I like are the ones made by Kershaw and Kabar - the rounded, scalloped style dealies.

Kershaw-Shallot-Black-Serrated-1840CKTST-350x350.gif


new-breed-devil-dog-ka-bar-c.jpg


I find they cut extremely well without getting bound up or snagged on materials (especially fabrics, cord, and all manner of fibrous materials), where most other styles of serrations will make a total mess of things.



I really don't like the typical three-point style serrations that most companies seem to use, although I admit that I have yet to try a fully serrated edge on a pocket knife. I've been kind of tempted to buy a stainless delica with the spyderedge, or a plain-jane Manix 2 with full serrations just to see how they perform, but I never go through with it.

spyderco_serrated_blade.jpg


mini_tsunami_tanto_powdered_serrations_edge_view_(Ron_Anderson-BFs).jpg


f6cf6047609663cd198223f730c5.jpg
 
Spyderedge, and more specifically, a fully serrated Endura. I've found the serrations to be a little less aggressive on the Endura than on other knives (which means it doesn't tear as much), and the plain edge portion at the tip is chisel ground so it stays in line with the serrated edge.
 
Dr Heelhook said:
Yeah, how the hell are you ever gonna sharpen those with anything other than a custom made tool for those particular serrations?
Click to expand...

I expect they'd be just as easy to sharpen as most other serrations. How do you generally sharpen most other serrations?

I generally do this type of deal:

[youtube]1_8hcCnzaOk[/youtube]

All you need is a little know-how and a whole world of possibilities opens up.
 
Chipped Karambit said:
serrations that are missing
Click to expand...

This.

I decided long ago that serrations aren't for me, so I ground any combo blades I had into plain edge. And I know how to sharpen serrations, and after I sharpen them I can whittle hairs with them, but I don't like using them. I prefer plain edge, and I maintain my plain edges at such a high level of sharp, that I never find myself unable to cut something with ease. Even 1" thick, synthetic, wet and dirty rope parts easily and without much resistance with any of my plain edge knives. Also, since I almost exclusively carry multi bladed traditionals, I always have a backup blade in case one gets dull.
 
Dorito Monk said:
I expect they'd be just as easy to sharpen as most other serrations. How do you generally sharpen most other serrations?

I generally do this type of deal:

[youtube]1_8hcCnzaOk[/youtube]
Click to expand...

No, never ever.

I'd never grind on the flat side like that. You'd need to grind down the points of the serrations almost completely, before you get to the deepest part of them :barf:. What you're essentially doing is quickly turning the serrated edge into a plain edge, which is fine, but then why buy a SE in the first place? The only way would be if you would lay the back side main bevel flat on the stone and go from there. That would sharpen the serrations without spoiling them, even those wretched Kershaw ones, but it would take a lot of work to remove all the metal from the main bevel and you would still need to sharpen the serrations properly on the serrated bevel side eventually. And like I said, I don't see how you could do that on the Kershaw ones without a special tool. Looks impossible to get into those little crannies between the serrations.
 
Last edited:
I HATE SERRATIONS!!
They are sooooo useless to me, and a pain in the ass to sharpen.
I have a plain edge Chive, and i stropped it on cardboard and sharpened a little to remove edge damage. Do that with serrations.
 
bladeboss said:
I HATE SERRATIONS!!
They are sooooo useless to me, and a pain in the ass to sharpen.
I have a plain edge Chive, and i stropped it on cardboard and sharpened a little to remove edge damage. Do that with serrations.
Click to expand...

any sharpening required/accomplished by cardboard stropping to repair edge damage for your plain edge wouldnt be required for good serrations to keep on cutting effectively/efficiently my friend :)

sharpening difficulty is subjective... just as changing oil or even pumping gas is hard for some people
a sharpmaker and/or lansky kit w/ serrated stones + practice has kept all my serrations phone book paper slicing sharp
 
Jaiofspam said:
any sharpening required/accomplished by cardboard stropping to repair edge damage for your plain edge wouldnt be required for good serrations to keep on cutting effectively/efficiently my friend :)

sharpening difficulty is subjective... just as changing oil or even pumping gas is hard for some people
a sharpmaker and/or lansky kit w/ serrated stones + practice has kept all my serrations phone book paper slicing sharp
Click to expand...
Hearing that, is kinda good. I actually use a Lansky Crock Stick for sharpening.
BUT i still dont like using them. I may feel different if i had a fully serrated knife. I still DONT like partial serrations.
 
Sharpening on the flat side works very well, and if you use a system like the edgepro the results look pretty at the same time. The points are maintained, and there's less rounding off or cosmetic change to the actual serrations. It's easy to restore a well used serrated edge to treetopping sharp this way. I haven't had nearly as much luck trying to sharpen the scallop side, always ends up looking pretty terrible after a few years. You can sharpen the flat side of serrations using an appropriate width benchstone (narrower than the serrated section for a comboedge) but it's tricky, best to tape up the blade with a couple layers and use the hollow ground bevel to set your angle like a straight razor. That's the real trick to making this work, being as close to a zero angle as you can get away with and maintaining a consistent angle so that the end result looks good. Never tried this with a flat ground serrated blade, as I haven't had one that I've used enough to need sharpening.
 
I don't like serrations on my blade, but the best I have found to use and sharpen, is ESEE.

RC3MILS.jpg


Moose
 
Dr Heelhook said:
I'd never grind on the flat side like that. You'd need to grind down the points of the serrations almost completely, before you get to the deepest part of them :barf:. What you're essentially doing is quickly turning the serrated edge into a plain edge, which is fine, but then why buy a SE in the first place? The only way would be if you would lay the back side main bevel flat on the stone and go from there. That would sharpen the serrations without spoiling them, even those wretched Kershaw ones, but it would take a lot of work to remove all the metal from the main bevel and you would still need to sharpen the serrations properly on the serrated bevel side eventually. And like I said, I don't see how you could do that on the Kershaw ones without a special tool. Looks impossible to get into those little crannies between the serrations.
Click to expand...

What I typically do is just sharpen the tips, because those are typically the only part of the serration that gets dull anyway. Watch the video and listen. Think of it like a steak knife - as you drag it across a ceramic plate, the tips get blunt and dull as they come into contact with the hard ceramic, but the deeper portions of the serrations never touch the hard surface. Even when that guy runs the knife over a giant steel bar, the same principle applies: the interior of the serrations never touch the hard medium which ends up dulling the tips, and therefore require sharpening only very rarely in the first place. It's hardly ever necessary to sharpen 'the deepest part of them'.

serrations.gif


As for perfectly maintaining the serrations without 'spoiling them', I'm sorry, but I use my knives. :rolleyes: Maintaining the picture perfect form of serrations is not a big deal for me. As with all knives, yes, the steel wears away as you sharpen them repeatedly, and I don't get overly excited about it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top