- Joined
- Jul 24, 2007
- Messages
- 3,285
What I typically do is just sharpen the tips, because those are typically the only part of the serration that gets dull anyway. Watch the video and listen. Think of it like a steak knife - as you drag it across a ceramic plate, the tips get blunt and dull as they come into contact with the hard ceramic, but the deeper portions of the serrations never touch the hard surface. Even when that guy runs the knife over a giant steel bar, the same principle applies: the interior of the serrations never touch the hard medium which ends up dulling the tips, and therefore require sharpening only very rarely in the first place. It's hardly ever necessary to sharpen 'the deepest part of them'.
As for perfectly maintaining the serrations without 'spoiling them', I'm sorry, but I use my knives.Maintaining the picture perfect form of serrations is not a big deal for me. As with all knives, yes, the steel wears away as you sharpen them repeatedly, and I don't get overly excited about it.
Well, if you saw on a steel bar with the knife, the points are definitely going to get dull first
. Seriously though, on regular three point serrations I sharpen each serration individually on the grind side using the corners on the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It takes a little bit of work, but the result is great and you don't have to do it that often anyway. My original question was how you're supposed to sharpen those round Kershaw serrations, but I guess the answer to that is that you have to sharpen them on the flat side, since sharpening them on the bevel side seems quite impossible (unless you have access to the same tool that Kershaw uses to make them). But that's cool
. I prefer sharpening serrations the way they come sharpened from the factory if possible, but I'm sure there are benefits of sharpening on the flat side as well, it does look like a simpler and faster method. As long as you get the job done...
