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....anyway, getting axes stuck is 98% an issue of technique.
I suspect they were more of a pattern that was easy to churn out in volume. They're essentially a narrow rectangle with an eye drifted and a bit forged out on one end.![]()
Fur trade iconography certainly played a role in later marketing and certainly the continued popularity is tied up in frontier nostalgia but the Hudson Bay pattern developed in Canada in the 19th century as the particular pattern traded by the Hudson's Bay Company.The modern Hudson Bay was developed as a marketing conceit during a point of time where nostalgia for colonial pioneering and a fascination with outdoor recreation had gripped the public consciousness, and were made to ape the aesthetics of the original trade axes while being made in the then-current manner.
There was not a "standard" pattern per se, and while the sort resembling the modern version of the pattern did exist, it was more of an emergent property of "punch an eye in a rectangular bar and fan out on end into a bit" more than anything else.
Axes. These tools were not found in arty quantity, but from those found it appears that a number of different sizes had been made of two styles. The larger axes have been called the Hudson's· Bay Company type. Because of their weight and size they must have been used mainly around the forts for construction and maintenance and the supplying of firewood. They have a shape (Fig. 6) which is distinct and could never be mistaken for any other type of axe of the same period. A number of perfect specimens appear in collections in museums of the Northwest. One in the Oregon Historical Historical· Society Museum has the letters JB deeply stamped on one side. Other markings, probably of the manufacturer or distributor,. also are stamped on some of those axes, but cannot be read. The trade· axes were not common in the excavations. but must have been made by the thousands for barter.
Right. What you’re describing is an overstrike. It’s the most common cause of haft damage on splitting axes. And your solution of only striking the near side is an important rule for splitting axes.When splitting, if you hit to the far side of the round, after the heel goes in it doesn’t spread the opening far enough to clear the handle, so the handle can take a beating. I’ve learned to try and keep the the heel a little off the near side to avoid that.
That eye has been deformed by someone using the axe as a sledge or as a wedge.Fort Vancouver closed in the 1840s so these are the earlier type but they are already pretty similar to the post 1860 version except for the shape of the eye.
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Actually I’m not. It’s possible to get the bit on the round and still have the handle behind the heel get torn up. Hard to describe fully I suppose.Right. What you’re describing is an overstrike. It’s the most common cause of haft damage on splitting axes. And your solution of only striking the near side is an important rule for splitting axes.
The previous example I posted earlier (from the Canadian Museum of History) to accompany the diagram does have poll damage and maybe it's not a very good example but the Oregon Historical Society Museum has a nice one from Fort Vancouver in their collection and you can see that the poll does not show signs of damage from pounding sufficient to deform the eye:That eye has been deformed by someone using the axe as a sledge or as a wedge.