The Garberg arrived today

SAK Guy

SAK Guy

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Jul 2, 2013
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First shots....

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Beautiful sleek lines and flawless grinds/finish...
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Feels awesome in the hand, solid....this ain't your daddy's Mora! Has the same kind of edge my Bushcraft Black did...a tiny microbevel.
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I'm really impressed over this knife. Both knife and sheath are absolutely perfect...not a visible flaw anywhere. Hope to get an edge on it this week and cut some stuff with it, as soon as the new wears off....:D

I'll post up some more pix as I take them.
 
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Having read the specs on the Mora website that should be a very practicle knife , with good value ! I don't need one but .......
 
Time for the Garberg to get it's edge prepared. I'll be using a Fallkniven DC-521 to put a nice micro (secondary) bevel on it.

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BTW, Been reading about some Moras (esp. Bushcraft Blacks) with edge deformation/chipping. My Moras always get a secondary bevel so I've never had any trouble. To be sure, the B Blk was tested on a dry, hard pecan stick a couple days ago and it easily passed. Did deep cuts with all my weight behind them. Pecan is extremely hard, just slightly less hard than hickory.

"Pecan has slightly lower strength values than some of the other species of Hickory, but it is still among the hardest and strongest of woods native to the United States."
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/pecan/


The B Blk did fine...

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Through the knot.
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I couldn't see or feel any edge damage, even after pushing through the knot. It would still slice the skin on my thumb which is one way I test sharpness. Not a razor like the rest of the blade but still sharp.


Now lets see if Garberg will roll/chip on the Pecan stick. Since this test was done earlier on the same stick using the Bushcraft Black, I flipped it over, started higher on the stick and put my (considerable) weight into some cuts and chips. It worked great, just like the Bushcraft Black.

Garberg%20curls_zpsihray3r3.jpg


No edge damage. It's still perfect and it will still slice skin on my thumb (just like the B Blk).
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So, the Garberg's 14C28N Sandvik stainless worked as well as the Bushcraft Black's carbon steel blade doing a similar basic task on the same test medium with a similar edge bevel.

Admittedly, this was a simple, easy test but with what's been posted on the net about B Blks edges roiling during light duty stuff like food prep and other stainless Moras chipping/deforming on tasks like wood carving, I had to test these two. My Moras will probably never have to baton through a log for kindling, but just in case the opportunity for some rigorous food prep or a maybe walking stick or two is called for, they're ready. :D
 
One thing I like about that knife is Mora refrained from putting a coating on the blade. I understand the coating on carbon steel but why mfrs coat stainless is beyond me. That Garburg will be fine for food processing, probably not the best for that but you don't have to wonder how much of coating is rubbing onto your meat or fruit.
 
Which steels have people reported chipping with?

What is the benefit of 14c28n over 12c27?
 
12c27 chipping and carbon deforming/rolling from what I've read. Google will produce a more detailed and complete list.

From the maker's site

Sandvik 14C28N knife steel
Ultimate combination of hardness and corrosion resistance

Sandvik 14C28N is the latest development in Sandvik's range of knife steels. Optimized chemistry provides a top grade knife steel with a unique combination of excellent edge performance, high hardness and good corrosion resistance.

This new grade matches the previous highest achievable hardness without affecting the microstructure. Blade re-sharpening is therefore easy. At the same time, edge stability in terms of microchipping and edge folding or rolling is also good.

With a recommended hardness range of 55-62 HRC, Sandvik 14C28N is ideal for knife applications which place very high demands on edge sharpness, edge stability and corrosion resistance such as chef's knives, pocket knives, hunting and fishing knives.


I think a lot of the damage is from the zero grind edge but that's just my opinion...I've no experience with any of that because I freehand a secondary on all my scandi grinds. I've noticed that makers like Enzo, LT Wright and others offer scandi's with a secondary or a "hard buffed edge" that probably convexes it a bit. Think about it, the classic Moras of old and most of their woodworking knives all had/have laminated steel blades with a 60-62 RC cores that were the zero grind terminus point. That would make some difference in edge performance that may not have transitioned over into the newer mono or stainless steels. :thumbup:
.
 
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Heard about these, first time I have seen one owned/posted. I look forward to your long term impressions. Thanks.
 
I can't find anything about 12c27 chipping. It would be contrary to my experience with it too.

I've dented it before so I could see edge rolling being possible for an edge taken too thin.

Perhaps the goal of 14c28n is to keep the same non-chipping fine grain structure of 12c27 only allowing a higher Rc hardness for better stability for thin edges?
 
pinnah said:
I can't find anything about 12c27 chipping. It would be contrary to my experience with it too.

I've dented it before so I could see edge rolling being possible for an edge taken too thin.

Perhaps the goal of 14c28n is to keep the same non-chipping fine grain structure of 12c27 only allowing a higher Rc hardness for better stability for thin edges?
Click to expand...

I think that's a good summary of their goal.

12c27
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/stainless-mora-companion-squirrel-damage.178032/

Last post about a Mora 2000 chipping.
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/anyone-ever-got-a-bad-mora.177961/

Stainless and carbon
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/chipping-and-folding-on-mora-knife-edge.123945/

That's three I remember but I'm looking at lots of hits after googling "mora stainless edge chipping".
 
Been away for a while. Nice to come back and see this.

Thanks for your efforts and photos.
 
Thank you for posting this. I'm getting really tired of spending lots of $ on high-end knives that don't cut. I am hoping to find a good quality bushcraft knife that truly performs while not requiring a long wait or costing an arm and a leg (because then I leave 'em in the safe so I won't risk getting them stolen out of my truck - which pretty much defeats the entire purpose of owning a knife in the first place)....My Enzo Trappers come close, but their handles seem to be made for midgets.

In other words, I really want a modestly priced, tough as hell full sized bushcraft knife that cuts like a laser while being easily replaceable so that I am not afraid to use it.... I am thinking that this might be it.

Please, if you don't mind, do some more cutting tests with the Garberg and let us know how it performs as far as edge retention, ease of sharpening, general cutting performance, etc.

Thank you again for starting this thread.
 
Is edge strength really the only benefit to having a secondary on a scandi grind? In your opinion, what are the noticeable downsides, if any?
 
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Thanks everyone! My health is variable but will try to get more tests done.


Brommeland,

The grip is a nice size. I have XL sized hand and if I get a hammer grip up by the finger guard, there is about 3/4" of grip left on the back end....plenty of room for use with a glove. :thumbup:
 
on_the_edge said:
Is edge strength really the only benefit to having a secondary on a scandal grind? In your opinion, what are the noticeable downsides, if any?
Click to expand...

There is lots of discussion on the net about this and woodworkers tend to insist the the zero grind is the "magic" of Moras. They want the keenest edge available but for an all around use knife, a properly done secondary (or convexed) edge is still amazingly sharp and doesn't suffer from chipping/rolling as much, if at all. This has been my experience but I'm no expert buschcrafter but have either hunted, camped or backpacked fairly extensively in the last 45+ years. My outdoors activity has lessened in the last 12 years due to health issues. Got my first Mora, a Frost Classic #2, back in the early 80's and in practical use, I know of no downside.

I'm sure others have additional experience they can share. :thumbup:
 
I prefer a small secondary bevel for a couple of reasons: firstly, it provides a sharp edge, but gives a bit more strength. Secondly, it makes it quicker to sharpen. It's hard to beat the Moras. I have a garberg on the way and am looking forward to it.
 
Man, I would be all about this knife if only it had a sharpening choil.

Is there ever a good reason to not have a sharpening choil on a knife?
 
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