The Practicality of Obese INFI

Since I use my Hell Razor quite a bit in the field, I've become a fan of its agility and relatively low carry weight. I also love my BM-E, though its heft makes it less attractive to carry on one of our hot AZ days. I think the ASH might just be a great combination of all I like about both blades in a moderate package. Doesn't really matter, though, it is INFI and I will find a use for it!! :D

A girl needs a knife...
 
Probably a newbie question, but for the LE what exactly is a "full height flat grind" and how does it compare to the CG?
And hey, my BATAC LE has almost 400 combat hours flying over Iraq and Afghanistan. I find myself hoping we'll crash so I can pull it out and use it....
 
Good question. Full-height flat grind refers to the primary grind of the blade profile. Not the edge. The LE is ground from edge to spine vertically in one plane leaving it completely flat as opposed to a sabre grind that varies, but typically goes from edge to a certain point up the blade vertically, then switches to another grind angle creating a "shoulder" near the spine.

This picture nicely shows the saber grind "shoulder" on the BATAC (bottom knife) as compared to the full-height flat grind of the ASH-1 SE (middle blade).

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BTW the CG ASH-1 is full-height flat grind as well. They are different thicknesses though with the CG being .320" and the LE being .220".

AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE, CORWISE. MAY YOU AND YOUR BATAC LE COME HOME SOON!
 
mikeymoto,

I'm with you, but resistance is futile. Fat is in.

With a few exceptions, mid-size and up Busse's are choppers first, and everything else a LONG second. The indestructability requirement for Busse knives may limit how thin an edge can be, but ceases to be an issue at 3/16". Nobody is going to mangle even a 3/16" Busse by hand or foot, except of course the occasional field goal attempt with an SK in a cinder block.

Shhhh! Most hogs are very sensitive about the weight of their Busse's. If you go around saying fat is bad, you will be seen as weak and lazy. Why else would you want a thinner blade?

There is however, a secret group that favors the sleek and fast profile in the tradition of the javelina! Perhaps some day they will be recognized by a knife in their honor but I don't expect it in the next two weeks.

Dave (I really must go now, they're tracking me and I must give them the slip.)
 
I too wish the CG ASH were 3/16. INFI is plenty tough. It doesn't need the fat and I don't need the fat hanging from my hip. I wanted a CG until I saw the fat so I went with an LE. My HR is plenty strong and comfortable to carry. If I want to chop I'll use my 'hawk.


If I need thicker steel than my HR I'll use one of my EU's, number 1 or 2.:D
 
Dennis in MA said:
Full-height-grind means a fairly thin edge. So slicing should be fine. I'm still worried about the balance - that extra weight may push teh balance point fwd. . . or the extra weight COULD push it backwards. (Or no change. LOL)
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You're right on the second one, the thicker blade actually makes it more handle-heavy. Only part of the blade sees the added thickness, while the entire handle gets extra steel.

I'm not one for the fatties either. When chopping, the extra width is fine, but if splitting firewood, the extra width makes it tougher to advance the blade through the log. Unless the wood is super-dry (read 'cured') -- then it simply explodes when touched by a fatty. ;)

My personal preference is a blade no thicker than .26-ish and a 3/4 flat grind. I like my extra Pork at the blade, not the handle. :thumbup:

:D :D
 
Once Upon a Time, Long, Long ago, in a State of Mind Far, Far Away from what was considered normal, back before there was a Steel called INFI.

The Busse Combat Knife Company, made the toughest strongest knives available from the best tool steel to be found, A-2, and Jerry made the knives from Full thickness stock and the people found this to be good.

"Sharpened Pry bars" His detractors Sneered, "Sharpened Prybars, Cool" Most of the users Cheered.

And Thick Sold, so thick got made.

Then INFI came along and Thick got rare, so the value of thick went up.

Now you have your choice of thick or thin pretty commonly and reviews are mixed, but there is some thing for every one.

In Mid-size to small, I like Thin better as long as it is strong, (although I do like the way thick feels in my hand and how it looks)

In the Bigger knives, thick means you do not need the Battle Mistress, that the Steel Heart will do just fine, for the most part.

Buy Thick if you like it and move on to thin if you do not.

"There is no Try there is only Do"

I like Thin knives, I like thin women, I like Thick knives, I like Thick Women, I like thick Sandwiches and thick Bacon too.

So it appears that I an here for thick and thin.
 
I was primarily a "chubby chasser" at first. But when I used a CG BATAC and saw how well it pried, sliced, batoned, etc... I soon developed a liking for the thinner blades as well. Especially on the mid to small sized knives. The reason I love my BATAC SE is how it quickly tapers/thins as you move from spine to edge.

But I like my choppers FAT! :D
 
I'd definitely prefer them thin in that size range, but yeah, just thin the edge way down and it'll cut like INFI should!
 
I wasn't even interested in the ASH-1 till I saw the .320!!! Now I am drooling over getting one! Can you imagine what a great thrower it will be!
 
I don't think I've used a blade that big to slice much, except gutting deer. There are probably better tools for that job too. The fattie will be better for choping than the LE, but I wouldnt want to chop with a knife like that if I could have a gransfor mini, or folding saw, or FBM are around (and I do). A knife that size, in my opinion will do all chores, none perfectly. That being said, I am picking up a fattie because I can't afford the LE right now. The extra weight, and resistance from wedging action of the thicker blade are my concerns. Ill be using it to split wood via batoning, making fire sticks, and making tent pegs/ snow pegs, and other light shelter/ fire related field craft, and partially just 'cus I like it. My current big knife user is a FSH. Its heavier than the gransfor, and chops less, but i like it too ;)
 
No fat here...well, not counting my gut. :o

I now have a Basic 5 and 7 that seem to bracket the size range nicely. I had an ASH-1 SE, didn't like it, traded it away. So i wont be ordering any flavor of ASH, even to get the HOG edition.

heresy, I know......:rolleyes:

btw, the full height grind does NOT guarantee a thin edge. I got a user FSH that was ridiculously thick at the top of the edge bevels, maybe it had been resharpened a lot? No matter, Ban will be taking care of it. :thumbup:
 
Gravelface said:
Why all the hate on the fatty....if you need to fillet a fish.....I bet it would work...not as good as a fillet knife, but work nonetheless. It is the edge that cuts, the thickness just separates.....

BRING THE FATNESS!!!!
Click to expand...
What he said!! :thumbup:

Fatties can slice:
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I am a big fan of the thinner blades, I personally feel 3/16" is the optimum for a knife this size and 1/4" on anything bigger.
 
well.............you can wedge things apart with a thick edge....

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but it still doesn't SLICE as easily as a truly thin kitchen knife.
 
I like'em THIN. It would be very difficult to break a ASH1 in 3/16 with bare hands let alone .320. There is only so much leverage you can generate from a knife that length.

I will still be getting a CGASH1 because I want to see if I can get a better chopper out of it by tapering the tang and moving the weight forward.

Most any sharp knife can slice soft material like flesh quite easily because the soft material will just part aside giving very little resistance. If you took a thin knife and a thick knife and did a slicing test on flesh... the performance would be very close. Do the same test on harder material like cardboard, apples, potatoes, etc.... and the thinner knife will easily pull ahead. Trying it on plastic tubing and the results will be night and day and the thick knife will be left in the dust.
 
resinguy said:
btw, the full height grind does NOT guarantee a thin edge. I got a user FSH that was ridiculously thick at the top of the edge bevels, maybe it had been resharpened a lot? No matter, Ban will be taking care of it. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

To Be Exact....

At the max height of the cutting bevel it is .08 near the choil and a whopping .103 around most of the bevel and close to the tip.
 
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