The process and priciples of quenching

First of all; thanks for taking the time to get this thread rolling. I'm one of the new guys to this Art and so far, everything I've done is through trial and error with no guidance or instruction from anyone. With that said, let me get to my point.

Has anyone tried the Evans waterless coolant for a quench? Its basically an antifreeze but waterless. It was the only thing I had lying around the shop so I decided to use it and maybe its my inexperience but, it seemed to work. The down side to it is, it isn't cheap.
 
Hi Kevin. Like the rest, I to am so very pleased with this thread, and the fact that you are letting us "read your mind" (litterly).
Question about straightning. You mentioned earlier in this thread that a warped blade can be straightned while hot, using gloves, and visually bending back to straight.
What's the procedure for straightning a cold blade, say after it's been tempered? I saw on Mr. Morans video a few years ago that he heats the blade, (if it's cool to begin with), and straightens it, then pours water on the steel to stop movement right at the point he's happy with. Would this be how you'd approach this?
I'm working on a Scagel right now using the bronze you gave me that came from Mr. Scagels actual workshop (through Dr. Lucie) for the guard.
Robert
 
I had to laugh at the thought given to ethyl alcohol. In the tunnel visions search of perfection on one point of the scale can expose oneself to exciting moments at the other end of the scale

If Samurai Stu has a problem in South Africa getting kit, I am doubly in trouble. I am trying to set up my own system and am looking to do my own treating ( instead of having someone in RSA do it). I appreciate this thread.

I can picture the cutting of the quench fluid along a long tank would create a better control of the vapour layer and lower warpage????? (trying to do this with a hot piece of steel could make it difficult)
 
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