The Science Behind Sharpening (Here at Bladeforums)

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Really don't see what there is to be so annoyed about.

Anyway, what method do you like to sharpen serrations, for example SpyderEdge blades? (Or similar).

Also, do you ever use sharpening steel?

Real questions.
 
Sharpening is a fairly simple and straightforward. Cliff does seem to take the issue to extreme levels, and overcomplicate it, in my opinion.
It's good that there are people who analyze things like this. I do feel that it has been taken past extreme.
When this forum was opened , I thought there would be more repair-oriented, or customizing questions and answers. It does seem to be a "how to use your jig sharpener forum."
Bill
 
rifon2 said:
Thanks for the information; appreciated.

What method do you like to sharpen serrations, for example SpyderEdge blades? (Or similar).

Also, do you ever use sharpening steel?
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Hi rifon2,
You can use a triangle or round ceramic to sharpen the inside edge (gulley) of serrations but this does nothing for the tips/teeth.

A pretty good method for dealing with serrations is the dowel and sandpaper method that I wrote about HERE. I explained this technique with the typical serrated kitchen knife in mind but you could easily use this same thing on your knife, you'd just need a couple of different size dowels. It works pretty good, give it a try.


I like to use a smooth steel on soft German kitchen knives just before I use them. Beyond that, I have no use for them.


--Dave--
 
Wow, you're a lot more laid back at KF. You keep talking about Bladeforums and "maybe this group only deserves answers like 'rough edges'" like you're not a member here. And who cares what Cliff says - if a newbie reads his stuff and it works for him, great. If it's wrong, then he won't get a good edge and he'll keep digging for info and find out what works. His knife will either gets sharp or it won't. Maybe they'll see some of your posts at KF and learn some more. Why not just have a cup of coffee or a smoke break and then come back a little later, you may feel better.
 
D R S,
If you think Cliffs methods or practices are unsound then why not disprove them. You aren't getting your point across because you haven't addressed the issues you brought up. Wising off with snyde posts when others are trying to understand you isn't going to help your point either and frankly it makes you look like a tool who doesn't know what he's talking about.
If you truly want to call to light the problems you have with these posts from Cliff then do so. I think it would help your argument to explain instead of stating all we are capable of understanding is "rough edges".
 
Dave(D_R_Sharpening):

I only post in the Buck knives forum; but after reading your nonsense I'm going to make an exception.


D_R_Sharpening said:
It's Professor Stamp I'm speaking of.
Pull up any post (yeah any) and you can see what I'm speaking of.
I'm with "db", I'm tiring of this--Dave--
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You sound like nothing more than a jealous, infantile moron wanting attention. Pull up your skirt there Mary! Is this about other people, or how you're going to school this forum on sharpening?


D_R_Sharpening said:
There is science in sharpening, right? Sure there is. What I can't stand is contribed dribble from self prophets. --Dave--
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This is proof you really don't have a clue! Sharpening is an art, NOT a science. A knife's edge can have a variety of included angles, as well as different edge types altogether(flat, convex, etc.). An art form allows for many differing methods, while a science does not. Aren't YOU trying to be a self prophet here?


D_R_Sharpening said:
The Sharpmaker is a great touch-up tool. A more toothier edge in the 120x-320x range allows for more easy cutting on things like packaging tape, rope, plastic banding, etc.

I think that a diamond plate (like the DMT Dia-Sharp 120x - D8XX) and a good set of waterstones (like Norton's 1000x & 4000/8000x combo) is just about the best way to spend your sharpening dollars. Learn the craft of free-hand sharpening and you'll be set for life.--Dave--
Click to expand...

If you were anywhere near as good as you claim to be, you would know the Sharpmaker is junk! As a matter of fact, any crock stick system is! You should be doing touch-ups on a stone as well...if you have the skill! You are correct however with the 120 to 320 grit range statement you made about toothier edges and free-hand sharpening. You say you think diamond and water stones are the best. Do you think or know? You come into the room wanting to be the 800 pound gorilla and you think they're the best? Your choice of 4000 to 8000 grit is a poor choice. It is also a waste of your time, as there is not a person alive that is going to look at how smooth the edge of your mouthful of steak is! Do yourself a favor and go out and get yourself a Norton JUM3 or JUM4. Either one of these you can use to sharpen any knife...from kitchen to EDC.

F.W.I.W.: I went back and read a number of Cliff Stamp's posts after you initially posted about him; as I normally don't. You sound like an idiot after shooting him down, as some of what you're spewing here to be gospel, he has already stated prior to the inception of this thread. Do your homework first. It's better to convince people based on your merits alone; rather than to shoot people down to make yourself look better. If you're looking to be king of the hill and pound your chest, you have to earn that. Grow up, man!
 
G3 said:
Wising off with snyde posts when others are trying to understand you isn't going to help your point either and frankly it makes you look like a tool who doesn't know what he's talking about.
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+1, and you sound like a classic troll by spouting off about something you can't even describe and then telling us we're the simple ones.:rolleyes: Whatever. Just another drama queeen.:thumbdn:

oil
 
D.R.
I'm fairly new here and there are many people on this forum, Cliff among them, who know much more about knives than I do but so far you are the #1 douche bag. Congrats!
 
This guy has gotta be a troll... If you're not gonna give information to back up your assertations (which Cliff does, as is proper working within the scientific method, even if he goes farther than any sane person should), at least admit that they're baseless and just a gut reaction, instead of touting them as immovable truths.

Buck_110 said:
This is proof you really don't have a clue! Sharpening is an art, NOT a science. A knife's edge can have a variety of included angles, as well as different edge types altogether(flat, convex, etc.). An art form allows for many differing methods, while a science does not. Aren't YOU trying to be a self prophet here?




If you were anywhere near as good as you claim to be, you would know the Sharpmaker is junk! As a matter of fact, any crock stick system is! You should be doing touch-ups on a stone as well...if you have the skill! You are correct however with the 120 to 320 grit range statement you made about toothier edges and free-hand sharpening. You say you think diamond and water stones are the best. Do you think or know? You come into the room wanting to be the 800 pound gorilla and you think they're the best? Your choice of 4000 to 8000 grit is a poor choice. It is also a waste of your time, as there is not a person alive that is going to look at how smooth the edge of your mouthful of steak is! Do yourself a favor and go out and get yourself a Norton JUM3 or JUM4. Either one of these you can use to sharpen any knife...from kitchen to EDC.
Click to expand...

Just one man's $.02, but you're almost as bad as DR. If you respond to trollishness with trollishness, you're just giving him what he wants, and not giving any of us what we deserve (honest facts, or is that too much to ask?)
 
I can't understand a lot of the stuff Cliff talks about, so I can't comment on if it's bs or not. But he did suggest to me that I can sharpen my knives at 15 degrees per side and I learned the rest from the Sharpmaker DVD. My knives all shave now and I'm happy. He helped me along with some other guys.

Also, are you saying that his details are excessive or that his advice is just plain wrong? Do you know if Cliff's advice is ineffective?
 
Well aint you all just so sweet. Dave stick around the more opinions on sharpening the better. I for one understand your views on Cliff, and if you or anyone else leaves like many have done because of Cliffs harrassment it doesn't help anyone.

Bill not everyone is posting on useing jiggies. I've posted more than a few on free hand sharpening here is the latest one,
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425415
I'd love to here your thoughts on my methods and views. That goes for anyone else who would like to comment in that thread.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Sharpening is a fairly simple and straightforward. Cliff does seem to take the issue to extreme levels, and overcomplicate it, in my opinion.
It's good that there are people who analyze things like this. I do feel that it has been taken past extreme.
When this forum was opened , I thought there would be more repair-oriented, or customizing questions and answers. It does seem to be a "how to use your jig sharpener forum."
Bill
Click to expand...

Same here and that is what I was hoping for was more of the tinkering part. Custom jobs on here are very seldom , almost every single post regards some aspect of sharpening.
Sort of sucks for those of us who know how to sharpen and want to hear about mods , customs and tinkering.... or am I being selfish.. :eek:
 
I personally admire Cliff's approach to the problems and/or solutions he describes. He supplies more fact than opinion and obviously does his homework. His knowledge of steel and it's application to blades far exceeds mine but I know enough to know b***s*** when I see it and I haven't seen any out of Cliff yet. I've learned a lot from Cliff's postings over the years but one of the most important things I've learned from Cliff is that engaging in a pissing contest over facts is a fools errand, and Cliff in no fool.

Dave
 
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