The Toughest Folding Work Knife?

I think the already mentioned Buck 110 and Buck 112 are excellent options. You could also take a look at knives by EKA Knivar, I know you asked for American made knives, but the EKA's are worth looking at. I own two of them and one of them is the Swede 60.

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It is a tough knife that is/was also used by the Swedish army.
http://www.gotavapen.se/gota/artiklar/knivar/swed_knife.htm
 
Toughest knife I have: Queen Dan Burke small Barlow, GEC Elephants Toe Nail, Parker Frost stockman, whiock looks identical to Buck 301 large stockman (different stamps and shield otherwise identical) and Buck 301 Stockman.

Toughest of 'em all is toenail just sheer size and sturdiness... Not most pocketable but tough as door nail.
 
Just out of curiosity to the OP, and for the sake of discussion, define tough?
A knife is meant for cutting, not prying or driving screws. Therefore, other then a good, working edge, what else fit the qualifications for "toughness"?
I have yet to come across ANY task that my Sodbuster, Alox SAK, or Buck 110 could do that my Peanut couldn't do just as well. Heck, with it's thin blades, the Peanut can actually do some chores BETTER then my larger knives. Granted, some tasks may take LONGER with a Peanut, but that is not a matter of toughness.
This is not a "Peanut" appreciation thread, as I could have said my Vic Classic and the point would have been the same. When we talk about "toughness" in a blade, what are we looking for, and why? I've seen some really over built knives, and wondered "What's the point? A simple slipjoint can handle ANY tough chore an over built one can. Why so much material?
Anyway, just wondering.
 
woseyjales: could you please identify the Case you have posted?

Thanks.

Indeed, there are many good suggestions here: I like the Queen, especially with the D2 blade, the Cases, and the GECs (though a bit pricey), but I will check out the Buck 301 and 307, too. I must admit that the EKA looks nice, too.

With regard to the EKA Knivar, I cannot seem to find that knife. I found one web seller, and most of the EKAs seem to be out of stock. What model is the knife you posted, and where did you purchase it?
 
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both gecs with pioneer on left beside the stag big jack. the pioneer @ 4.5 in. closed is the longest frame offered in gec line--this one is in horsecut walnut. hard to imagine a task for folders that these 2 could'nt handle. from where gec gets it's monikers for bone types is an enigma.--dennis
 
On the production side any benchmade with D2 steel is tuff or a Spyderco Military, para-military or Manix
 
dhaines said:
On the production side any benchmade with D2 steel is tuff or a Spyderco Military, para-military or Manix
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Since the OP posted this in a forum about old school, non-locking folders, I'll go out on a limb and say he's probably looking for an old school, non-locking folder.

-- Mark
 
Voltron--good point. I guess I mean "tough" in terms of being resilient, even if pushed or abused somewhat (beyond what one may normally do or expect to do with a knife). I am thinking mostly in terms of blade play, as I had mentioned, but other factors are involved, too. I would also add that it would be nice to have a knife that ages well--one that works well and does not look decrepit after years of use. Perhaps this is the truest overall test of a knife's durability and character?

With regard to the EKA: I see now where you mention the model number (the Swede 60)--thanks.
 
mnblade said:
Since the OP posted this in a forum about old school, non-locking folders, I'll go out on a limb and say he's probably looking for an old school, non-locking folder.

-- Mark
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Mark brings up a very good point. It really shouldn't be too much to ask that folks respect the intent of the OP by keeping their responses tailored to both the appropriate subject matter and the parameters of this sub-forum. Thanks to all those of you who do keep this ship on course.

Forum Guidelines....
 
Tough?

It is like traditional, I know it when I see it!

Large enough to hold easily in my hand for long work or if I am wearing work gloves it is comfortable
A longer blade that I don't have to search for the blade to cut, and so it does not dull so easily.
The blade is big enough to take extended pressure of a cut.
The bolsters are sturdy enough to take some sort of side pressure.
 
I'd feel comfortable putting in a long hard day with any of these guys (by way of example):

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There are certainly many others that fit the bill and are no shrinking violets when it comes to earning their keep.
 
woseyjales said:
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Man, This was an impressing knife. If one was to sell ones mother this knife.......

EKA mod 60 is not in production anymore. EKA is changing their models to newer knifes. I think that this EKA 60 is a realy good knife, especially with wood and carbon steel. I also like the EKA 38 slipjoint, especially with wood and carbon steel.

As to stong traditionals a SAK soldier is hard to beat for its size. Its pinned in a way that makes it pretty strong.

Bosse
 
I would say my SAK Alox Farmer is my hardest working knife. I have an ARC Premium AAA attached to it. They have been in my front right pocket for 4 years now.
 
neeman: you have explained "tough" better than I could--thanks.

Blues: what beautiful knives. These knives are clearly what I have in mind. And, yes, I do not want a locking blade.
 
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How about this Moore Maker? I notice that this knife is listed as having "nickel steel" bolsters, while others indicate "nickel plated" bolsters. Is this just an oversight? I prefer solid metals (or alloys) to plated metals. I also prefer a bolster with a satin finish, as opposed to a shinier bolster.

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Any opinions?

vendor link removed by moderator. image substituted in its place. please refrain from posting commercial links in the forum and refer to the forum guidelines posted at the top of the forum page in a "sticky". thanks.

Sorry about the link.
 
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