The Toughest Folding Work Knife?

you americans are obsessed with "tough" things (no offense)

what does tough or hard use mean? prying or using them as a screwdriver? (NO! :D ) what is a tough/hard/hardcore material to CUT?

to me even cutting carpet or wood are normal duties for a knife, cannot think of any hard or difficult material to cut that may not go in "abuse"

otherwise,
to me "tough" is a knife with a good steel, thought geometry and thickness, a pivot that withstands simple and light tweistings that occur cutting hard materials eg heavy carpet or cardoboard in order not to develop play or at least not easily, you can fix a slipjoint with a hammer/mallet and 2 pieces of wood BTW

knives can get a damage to the edge, handles, tips or develop play at the pivot, these are the "points" I look for when looking for the tougher knife in my collection

other than my ZT0301, SR-1...
looking at taditionals I would say Fallkniven TK4 that is MY choice as a backup or "harder" use knife, good thickness, good tip, adjustable pivot, lockback
another may be a GEC Sunfish, 53# GEC or #53 cattle rancher with is pretty hefty, a buck 110, a sodbuster, Vic Soldier, Camillus Soldier... BUT it depends on what I may use the knife for


to get here it's rather easy by thinking, using and looking :thumbup:
hope it's understandable, not grammatically but from a "knife user's view"

cheers
Maxx
 
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gt69 said:
woseyjales: could you please identify the Case you have posted? Thanks.
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Sure thing GT69, I usually do identify my postings but
for some reason I assumed it would not be necessary on that one.
You know what 'they' say about assumin'.

Knife is a Case 640045R scout/camping knife which they discontinued
about 2003 IIRC. Plain old heavy duty delrin handled workhorse.
Case also had one with pliers added, 650045R.
 
I just bought a NOS Buck 307. It looks like a very nice knife, especially for the price ($39.95). What do you 307 users think of the handle?

I am still considering buying another "tough," "old school" knife, and so if there are any other comments or suggestions, please let me know.

I thank all of the contributors here.
 
For a contemporary work knife, I would have to say the buck 110. For a more traditional work knife, then I would say the steel version of the GEC Sunfish.
 
I am a remodeling contractor and my knives see a lot of "hard use". For the last 6 months I"ve been carring an old Schrade Muskrat. It's thin, flexable blades do not look very "hard use" yet it has cut everything that I've asked of it. As long as your knife doesn't require twisting or prying I think any well made pattern with plastic handles should fit the bill.

Paul
 
Paul 883215 said:
I am a remodeling contractor and my knives see a lot of "hard use". For the last 6 months I"ve been carring an old Schrade Muskrat. It's thin, flexable blades do not look very "hard use" yet it has cut everything that I've asked of it. As long as your knife doesn't require twisting or prying I think any well made pattern with plastic handles should fit the bill.

Paul
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Bingo.
 
Voltron said:
That's my point.
When does cutting require twisting or prying?
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For a few bucks you can always add a small prybar to your keyring. Believe me it will work better. I know from experience... I once got in a hurry and tried to pry something with a Spyderco Manix 2 in CPM S90V. Great knife, cuts like demon, not a very good prybar! It was an expensive lesson but i feel lucky that I just broke the knife and I didn't hurt myself.


Paul
 
gt69 said:
I just bought a NOS Buck 307. It looks like a very nice knife...What do you 307 users think of the handle?

I am still considering buying another "tough," "old school" knife, and so if there are any other comments or suggestions, please let me know.

I thank all of the contributors here.
Click to expand...

Rather than debate cutting, prying and twisting let's see if we can continue providing suggestions to the OP (as requested in the quoted text above)...
 
What a day it has been. In addition to the Buck 307, I have picked up a nice Camillus TL-29 and a nice "U.S." Camillus, with a 1976 date. Any comments on the steel in these blades? I gather the TL-29 is perhaps 440?

I thank all of the contributors, as it made buying a vintage knife easier. Each of the three knives was under $40 (shipped), and so the prices seem to be reasonable.
 
I would have to add that, in my view, the usefulness and durability of a knife extends beyond its ability to cut. The "tough" aspect that I and others here have discussed includes "all of the above." That is, will a knife break, bend, or be otherwise damaged when dropped? Will the blade acquire play under stress and repeated use? What will happen if the knife is tossed around? Will the handle material wear easily or will it resist the grind of time and use? Will the finish of the knife age well or will the knife become ugly and tired looking quickly? Will the fit of its parts suffer over time? These matters are just some of what makes one knife tougher than another.
 
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The TL-29s of the past were carbon, likely 1095 if they were born closer to today than way-back. You may have to touch it up after heavy use but you can get those blades "hair" splitting sharp. You do a good job sharpening and I would not recommend testing the edge with your thumb........the Buck 307 is likely 440a by Camillus, seems decent with their heat treat. You will be surprised how often you will use the 29 screwdriver blade....but not as pry bar.....staples and gaskets ok...no rusty metal..

300
 
gt69 said:
I would have to add that, in my view, the usefulness and durability of a knife extends beyond its ability to cut. The "tough" aspect that I and others here have discussed includes "all of the above." That is, will a knife break, bend, or be otherwise damaged when dropped? Will the blade acquire play under stress and repeated use? What will happen if the knife is tossed around? Will the handle material wear easily or will it resist the grind of time and use? Will the finish of the knife age well or will the knife become ugly and tired looking quickly? Will the fit of its parts suffer over time? These matters are just some of what makes one knife tougher than another.
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Ok, right now my favorite "tough" knife is a USA made Schrade 77OT. It has gone through and passed all of the criteria you have mentioned.

Paul
 
gt69 said:
What a day it has been. In addition to the Buck 307, I have picked up a nice Camillus TL-29 and a nice "U.S." Camillus, with a 1976 date. Any comments on the steel in these blades? I gather the TL-29 is perhaps 440?

I thank all of the contributors, as it made buying a vintage knife easier. Each of the three knives was under $40 (shipped), and so the prices seem to be reasonable.
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As 300 said, most of the TL29's I have seen have been carbon steel.
If yours is stainless, and if it was made by Camillus, it is most likely 440A.
That would be two knives you bought that were made by Camillus.
 
gt69 said:
What a day it has been. In addition to the Buck 307, I have picked up a nice Camillus TL-29 and a nice "U.S." Camillus, with a 1976 date.............
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Well you certainly met your requirements of a tough knives!
Enjoy....
 
Dennis, I just wanted to give my point of view ;)
--

a knife is a tool, a precious tool that could really help you much so keep it sharp, clean and in a good working condition, ruining it will only riun the "tool" and it usefulness

Maxx
 
Paul 883215 said:
For a few bucks you can always add a small prybar to your keyring. Believe me it will work better. I know from experience...
....
Paul
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A tough knife that has 'prybar'

Any of the SAK Alox with the screwdriver/cap opener
It is quite solid and has a half stop and works very well for prying
Again it cannot be abused...
 
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