Thinking about a 710 (But went with an 810)

I'm glad to hear the comments about the Contego being stronger. I was kinda worried about rust in the pivot, but I'm thinking it shouldn't be an issue. I have 1 pistol that is cerakoted, and the finish is gone on all the edges, but it doesn't rust because the same wear keeps any rust worn off. Any idea what the lighter silver is around the pivot of the blade is? I would hope that it is fully coated, but that is an odd looking light patch.
 
sharp_edge said:
yes 810 is definitely stronger and more secure in the hand. However, it is not designed for piercing, for which 710 will perform much better.
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I will definitely agree that the 710 blade geometry is more effective for piercing. I disagree that the 710 would be a better piercer in practice though. I think any disadvantage the 810 blade may have would be offset completely by its better grip, and the added power that could be transferred to the blade. Have you ever stabbed anything as hard as you can? Heck no, either your hand would slip down the blade, or you would break a finger on the hilt. At least that's my experience, and the better grip of the 810 is why I dismissed the 710.
 
sharp_edge said:
yes 810 is definitely stronger and more secure in the hand. However, it is not designed for piercing, for which 710 will perform much better.
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I reshaped my blade for that very reason, see pic above.

mcflyfyter said:
I'm glad to hear the comments about the Contego being stronger. I was kinda worried about rust in the pivot, but I'm thinking it shouldn't be an issue. I have 1 pistol that is cerakoted, and the finish is gone on all the edges, but it doesn't rust because the same wear keeps any rust worn off. Any idea what the lighter silver is around the pivot of the blade is? I would hope that it is fully coated, but that is an odd looking light patch.
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I stripped the cerakote from mine and haven't had any problem with corrosion, but did have some on a spyderco Bradley air.
A new one is not coated where it contacts the washers and axis pin. If you're worried about it, Breakfree CLP or the equivalent is your friend.
 
jpm2 said:
I reshaped my blade for that very reason, see pic above.


I stripped the cerakote from mine and haven't had any problem with corrosion, but did have some on a spyderco Bradley air.
A new one is not coated where it contacts the washers and axis pin. If you're worried about it, Breakfree CLP or the equivalent is your friend.
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I didn't even notice that you reshaped it, but I thought it looked good. I think the reverse tanto isn't very easy on the eyes, but I don't understand what you might be trying to pierce that the reverse tanto couldn't handle. I am certain that anything flesh would be no problem either way. I do think yours looks better, although you probably lost some strength in the tip.
Being a wet lube, I reserve CLP for AR-15 bolts. I will probably use eezox, as it leaves a dry film, and has much better lubrication and anti corrosion properties.
 
mcflyfyter said:
I didn't even notice that you reshaped it, but I thought it looked good. I think the reverse tanto isn't very easy on the eyes, but I don't understand what you might be trying to pierce that the reverse tanto couldn't handle. I am certain that anything flesh would be no problem either way. I do think yours looks better, although you probably lost some strength in the tip.
Being a wet lube, I reserve CLP for AR-15 bolts. I will probably use eezox, as it leaves a dry film, and has much better lubrication and anti corrosion properties.
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Thanks.
The modified tip is more for ease of piercing, like starting a cut, and less for stabbing with force but, I'd bet it would repeatedly stab (with force) into a 55 gallon drum easier than the stock tip, and still suffer no damage - not something I would bet on being D2 or M390. Overall, an acute(r) tip is more useful to me.
As for lube, I prefer one that does it all.

Oh, I also slightly reshaped the handle too, fits better now.
Next step is to shorten it.
 
mcflyfyter said:
I will definitely agree that the 710 blade geometry is more effective for piercing. I disagree that the 710 would be a better piercer in practice though. I think any disadvantage the 810 blade may have would be offset completely by its better grip, and the added power that could be transferred to the blade. Have you ever stabbed anything as hard as you can? Heck no, either your hand would slip down the blade, or you would break a finger on the hilt. At least that's my experience, and the better grip of the 810 is why I dismissed the 710.
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I can certainly understand your reasoning and I dont disagree. And yes - if the stabbing requires as much force as one has, then 810 is safer to use. In other cases of stabbing, however, I still pick 710 over 810. Not that I am a knife for defense guy, but 710 will be more effective for stabbing a mad animal attacking someone than 810.

In fact, I will extend what I said to all reverse tanto blades such as 940 and 940-1.
 
sharp_edge said:
I can certainly understand your reasoning and I dont disagree. And yes - if the stabbing requires as much force as one has, then 810 is safer to use. In other cases of stabbing, however, I still pick 710 over 810. Not that I am a knife for defense guy, but 710 will be more effective for stabbing a mad animal attacking someone than 810.

In fact, I will extend what I said to all reverse tanto blades such as 940 and 940-1.
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I understand what you mean now, the 710 is much more efficient at piercing. Like you, a knife is far from my primary defense tool. I have to disagree with you again about the 710 being better for stabbing a mad animal. You are just thinking about 1 stab, and the amount of effort it would take, and not really finishing the thought. Flesh is easy to pierce, and I'm pretty sure we can both agree on that. If I had to be stabbed by one or the other, I would pick the 710 in an instant. The 710 would be a smaller and cleaner wound versus the 810's larger more of a tearing wound that bleeds faster, and is harder to stitch up.
Is 1 stab going to instantly stop the animal? Possibly, but what if it doesn't? What if the first stab hits a bone? The 710 would be at a major disadvantage because it would be deeper in the bone. Not only that, but you can pull out with much more force with the 810 if you were to hit bone.
With that said, I would absolutely choose the 710 to pierce one of those impossible to open clamshell packages. I'm not trying to start a pissin' match, just pointing out that being an efficient piercer may not mean it is always a better piercer. In a way, you could liken it to 9mm vs. .45acp.
 
mcflyfyter said:
Thanks, but you have no idea what kind of abuse I put my knife through. .... but I didn't like prying or twisting with it, it always felt like I was breaking it. What is the grip spacer made of? I am thinking it is steel. If so at least I would have a safer place to hammer with, because I know G10 is tough, but I think it would get mangled pretty quick.
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Its a knife, use a screwdriver or a hammer for prying twisting or hammering... or get a multitool.... If you get a knife that will tolerate all that abuse, then it won't cut to its best ability. I had my 710 thinned down a lot from stock, because I loved the knife just didn't love the cutting effort. Thinned down is like a laser. I jus barely touched my skin, felt like a feather and it cut me. It eats cardboard for breakfast. Even very thin, it cuts zip ties without issue because the force required is so low in a straight cut.

Knives are for cutting. LOL not all that other stuff.. For that I carry a LM Surge with the hardened cutter blades.

But if you want knife to hammer with/on, then really a multitool is your better choice. And the blades they have will work as well for abusing.
 
Rapt_up said:
Its a knife, use a screwdriver or a hammer for prying twisting or hammering... or get a multitool.... If you get a knife that will tolerate all that abuse, then it won't cut to its best ability. I had my 710 thinned down a lot from stock, because I loved the knife just didn't love the cutting effort. Thinned down is like a laser. I jus barely touched my skin, felt like a feather and it cut me. It eats cardboard for breakfast. Even very thin, it cuts zip ties without issue because the force required is so low in a straight cut.

Knives are for cutting. LOL not all that other stuff.. For that I carry a LM Surge with the hardened cutter blades.

But if you want knife to hammer with/on, then really a multitool is your better choice. And the blades they have will work as well for abusing.
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I am well aware of the intended use of a knife. Unfortunately, I can't load my pockets full of tools. I gave up on multi-tools because they don't do anything worth a crap.
If using a knife incorrectly saves me from climbing stairs and ladders for 5 minutes to get to my truck for the correct tool, I'm ok with that.
Knives aren't a hobby to me, just another tool. I come here for the best info because members here know everything about knives. In the end, I think this 810 will serve my needs almost perfectly, so thank you all for your help.
 
mcflyfyter said:
I am well aware of the intended use of a knife. Unfortunately, I can't load my pockets full of tools. I gave up on multi-tools because they don't do anything worth a crap.
If using a knife incorrectly saves me from climbing stairs and ladders for 5 minutes to get to my truck for the correct tool, I'm ok with that.
Knives aren't a hobby to me, just another tool. I come here for the best info because members here know everything about knives. In the end, I think this 810 will serve my needs almost perfectly, so thank you all for your help.
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Funny, My experience with multitools was the same until I bought a good one... the leatherman Surge is a big beefy tool with a bit kit so it can be any screwdriver, wire cutter, stripper, prybar, pliers, has decent knife blades in both plain and sheepfoot serrated. etc. Mine works hard every day, Has installed more light fixtures, than any other tool I own for the very reason of I need it alone to do that. I dunno why or what you'd do with a 810 that the LM surge couldn't do better except cut. Seriously. It also has a saw blade holder that takes standard jig saw blades, files (regular and diamond) and a very effective pair of scissors. The wire cutters blades are very hard and replaceable if you mess them up or they dull. A sheath allows the carry without affecting any of my pockets. :)

I wasn't being a dick... well ok I was... :) because it seems crazy to me to buy a very good knife and then use it like a crappy one. Especially when for the same or less money you could have something that would really do the job and a bunch more and save you even more trips for tools.

And my experience with people who use tools all day every day is that they want the right tool for the job, it saves way more than using the wrong one because its handy... Nothing bugger up your work day like a trip the emergency room because you nearly cut your finger off using your knife like a prybar instead of a knife.... But hey its your money and your hands. Fill your boots.
 
I am one of the dudes that uses tools all day every day....HVAC. I carry a Millie and a Leatherman Wingman everywhere I go. Not using the Millie as a screwdriver, pliers etc.
Joe
 
Rapt_up said:
Funny, My experience with multitools was the same until I bought a good one... the leatherman Surge is a big beefy tool with a bit kit so it can be any screwdriver, wire cutter, stripper, prybar, pliers, has decent knife blades in both plain and sheepfoot serrated. etc. Mine works hard every day, Has installed more light fixtures, than any other tool I own for the very reason of I need it alone to do that. I dunno why or what you'd do with a 810 that the LM surge couldn't do better except cut. Seriously. It also has a saw blade holder that takes standard jig saw blades, files (regular and diamond) and a very effective pair of scissors. The wire cutters blades are very hard and replaceable if you mess them up or they dull. A sheath allows the carry without affecting any of my pockets. :)

I wasn't being a dick... well ok I was... :) because it seems crazy to me to buy a very good knife and then use it like a crappy one. Especially when for the same or less money you could have something that would really do the job and a bunch more and save you even more trips for tools.

And my experience with people who use tools all day every day is that they want the right tool for the job, it saves way more than using the wrong one because its handy... Nothing bugger up your work day like a trip the emergency room because you nearly cut your finger off using your knife like a prybar instead of a knife.... But hey its your money and your hands. Fill your boots.
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I think I lead you to believe that I am lazy, and just want to use my knife incorrectly. I am a welder, and I work on oil drilling rigs a lot. Let's say I am replacing the hinges on a 150lb door. I get this door up and in position, and use wedges to center it so I can tack the hinges. So at this moment, I am keeping the door from falling, wearing a welding hood, and holding a stinger with a 14" welding rod. I get ready to tack it, but I realize it is still off a little bit off. Damn, I'm out of wedges, and I can't reach any other tools without the door falling. At this point I have 2 choices. I can remove the rod from the stinger so I can set that down, then pull all of my wedges out and remove the 150lb door so I can lean it up safety while I fetch another wedge or whatever I need. Or.... I could just whip out my knife and pry the door over so I can tack the hinge.

So that is why I sometimes abuse knives. I don't really like it, but sometimes it is the safest option for me. You are 100% correct, but there are exceptions to every rule, and sometimes things just don't work out as planned.
 
Understandable.....I guess......but if prying up 150 lb door with your 810........you'll destroy it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
And for the record, I probably would use a leatherman if I had a way to carry it that wasn't a major inconvenience. The best place I found was in my boot, but it was just too heavy and flopped around a lot.
 
I carry a small Tumbuk2 bag for my gear. Inside a Velcro Benchmade pouch is my daily EDC. Everything I need for local projects is in there. We have a 5 Rescue hook and EMT kit, and my 710 is usually what's in the mix. My philosophy is a knife is for cutting and not prying. Thing about the 810 that I didn't like was how rough the scales were, and how fast my pocket on my pants showed the wear. The McHenry offering doesn't have that problem, but again whatever works just go with that. It's rare that I ever had a problem with any of Osborne's designs, the 810 and 950 for that matter just never worked for me.
 
Have you ever struck an object with something other than a hammer?
Have you ever used pliers on a hex head bolt?
Have you ever pried with a screwdriver?
Have you ever removed a staple with anything other than a staple remover?
Have you ever blown your nose with toilet paper?

If you answered yes to any of these, my point is proven.
If you answered no to all of these, you are a liar.
 
mcflyfyter,
Every time one of these "right tool for the job" comments is made, or "no need for one hand operation, pocket to pocket", I'm always tempted to explain all the unexpected situations I encounter in my line of work, and why it's not possible to have all the tools on me I might possibly need, nor practical to stop work to get a tool that might be more appropriate for the job when what you have will work just fine.

Those who aren't familiar with, or do this type of work can never understand, don't waste your time.
 
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