this is bull****! my NMSFNO rusted like cheap steel!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'll XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX for that.

You know better. :thumbdn:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
GregS said:
Busse didn't offer a DCBB NMSFNO IIRC. :D
Click to expand...

FAIL. You used four actual words, five if you count the contraction as two. :D

That knife looks like it was left ocean side for a while. :eek:
 
Tao,

NOt sure what is going on.

Did you store it in a sheath?

Where is the knife being stored?

IMHO, "STAIN-LESS" does not mean "stain proof", just that it won't go fuzzy like a "plain " steel. (Read here 10XX steel)

All forms of iron and it's numerous alloy will "RUST" (Oxide).

The only way to prevent this completely is to keep the steel from coming into contact with the air.

If there is no factory coating prevent this then at my house we use a bit of vaseline on the blade and wrap it in dry butcher paper. (Shiny side out.)

Anyhow, regardless I bet the folks at BUSSE can/will make it all better for you.

It'll all be good.

Shane
 
Looks to me like the "BAMA CLAY" finish is coming off :D but i could be wrong. Just send it into the shop . :thumbup:
 
Somehow telling someone that "they got what they paid for" really rubs me the wrong way. What he paid for was a Busse and I'd like to see the guy happy with it - whatever the cause of the corrosion.

I like Busse because they have proven time and again that they feel the same way.
 
360joules said:
Somehow telling someone that "they got what they paid for" really rubs me the wrong way. What he paid for was a Busse and I'd like to see the guy happy with it - whatever the cause of the corrosion.

I like Busse because they have proven time and again that they feel the same way.
Click to expand...

^^^ This. :thumbup:
 
No, I think what is rude is not calling the shop and asking about the knife before going on the manufacturer's forum posting negative pictures. Suggesting that it was the knife. I have a problem with that since there is a sticky on the top letting people know what to do if they have a problem.
This guy is not new and didn't provide any information even about the knife, like where he got it and if it had been altered along with any specs. If there was someone new to Busse, and saw this thread, they would think the quality of Busse was low and rust all the time.
Yes, Busse always fixes all the problems with no questions asked but why should they be held responsible if people alter the blades which is not their fault? I think that is rude.
 
What is a good oil to use on infi. I use wd 40 on my other blades would this also work on my infi or is there a better option?
 
Liu Kang said:
No, I think what is rude is not calling the shop and asking about the knife before going on the manufacturer's forum posting negative pictures. Suggesting that it was the knife. I have a problem with that since there is a sticky on the top letting people know what to do if they have a problem.
This guy is not new and didn't provide any information even about the knife, like where he got it and if it had been altered along with any specs. If there was someone new to Busse, and saw this thread, they would think the quality of Busse was low and rust all the time.
Yes, Busse always fixes all the problems with no questions asked but why should they be held responsible if people alter the blades which is not their fault? I think that is rude.
Click to expand...

I agree i'd just send it in. if you've got that many Busse's and have been around here for any time at all you should know how Jerry takes care of his own.
 
steelnut said:
That is Rude:thumbdn:

$300 shipped is an excellent price for the knife in question either way:cool::cool:
Click to expand...

His initial post came off quite rude... slinging profanity, calling the steel cheap, etc. That tends to draw rude responses.

Two wrongs don't make a right, but that's still the nature of the world.
 
OK folks, chill. Amy has already emailed tao_m, so you know Busse is on the case. Let's let them handle this issue and not bicker amongst each other. :) ...Go chop something (and take pix)!! :D:thumbup:
 
Interesting point here on stripping Busse's .... they seem to benefit from having a bit of a sanding/polish before doing a home made bead blast finish .... I have a number of Busse's which have repeated bead blast finishes because of use taking the dullness off ... my NMFBM must have had three bead blastings .... and no rust ... even here in the wet U.K. .... but before blasting the blade I removed all tooling marks on a sander and it had a ghetto satin finish before "blasting" ... I think this makes "all the difference" and as has been said .... the edge on that blade looks unaffected and perhaps if the sides had been polished the same way they would not have rusted ....
 
I stripped a sar5 a couple of weeks ago. Once the paint stripper had it's way with the coating, I went after the grey uncercoating with sandpaper. I had what I thought was a pretty even 300 grit finish on the blade and brought it back in to the house. Unfotunately for me (or maybe not), the blade was at the relatively cold temperature of the garage when it was brought in and left overnight in the warm and humid (by comparison) house. Even though I had given it a light coat of mineral oil, the surface began to rust almost immediately. Of course, I didn't notice it until the next day, but it was obvious from the rust pattern where I had failed to remove all of the surface decarb- even though the finish appeared even and smooth the night before. Two thirds of the blade was nice and shiny, but the third closest to the edge- and apparently the hardest for me to sand- was was pretty well rusted over (even though the edge was still mirrored). Last night I went back to 60 grit and worked up through 150, 320, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper until I had a much more even, and mostly mirror finish. I also made sure that the knife was at or above room temperature before I put it away (you are very unlikely to get condensation on a surface warmer than ambient temp).

Long story short... Infi will rust, however, it is much more rust resistant than the surface layer that is left after stripping the coating off of the blade. That layer will rust when the rest of the blade will not. Removing that layer should solve the vast majority of storage related rust issues. Removing that layer is not trivial, as it requires removing the residual machining marks that are hidden by the blade coating. These machine marks can be hidden by relatively coarse sanding (~200 grit) or by bead blasting, but they may remain- and cause rust much like the OP has observed with his blade.
 
Using my INFI usually knocks the rust right off.;)


Seriously though, I use the 3M stripping wheels on all of mine. They can rust in just about every place I keep them up here. They don't call it the Great NorthWet for no reason.;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top