This is what happens when the edge is thinned out too much.

Ankerson

Ankerson

Knife and Computer Geek
Joined
Nov 2, 2002
Messages
21,094
This is my BWM after chopping wood (Pine), not that bad, but it's the 2nd time it happened. I know I should have changed the edge profile after the 1st time. :yawn:

I thinned out the edge too much, so it rolled and tore out, totally my fault for going too far with it. :o





This is after I changed it to a 21 degree edge like it should be, it will be fine now. :thumbup:


 
Looks better now, Yes I would assume that a scalpel sharp profile would'nt be the best edge for serious chopping. Looks like you've got her fixed up now though.
Hows the ffbm holding up?
 
d762nato said:
Looks better now, Yes I would assume that a scalpel sharp profile would'nt be the best edge for serious chopping. Looks like you've got her fixed up now though.
Hows the ffbm holding up?
Click to expand...

Yeah I was stupid to take it down that far (about 12 degrees).... :grumpy: :o

The FFBM is at 20 Degrees and always was since I sharpened it the 1st time so it's fine, no problems at all. :thumbup:
 
Too sharp?:eek: What an exercise in humility to share your missteps there Ankerson. Makes your opinions all the more credible.
 
Have you been doing any more chopping with your ffbm lately. Pretty heavy duty chopper huh. How do you like it compared to your cgbm?
 
That's too bad. I know many say that INFI won't chip and it just rolls. While generally true it's not always so. I've chipped a FSH and had to reprofile it. For choppers though, I keep a working edge to avoid damage like what you've encountered. I hope you can get it back to how you want it.
 
d762nato said:
Have you been doing any more chopping with your ffbm lately. Pretty heavy duty chopper huh. How do you like it compared to your cgbm?
Click to expand...

The weather has been really bad here so I really haven't had the chance to have a lot of fun lately. :grumpy:

I love my FFBM, it's a beast compared to the CGFBM, I can tell the difference.

The CGFBM is a safe queen now since I got it back from the SPA and now I have the FFBM. :)
 
mymindisamob said:
That's too bad. I know many say that INFI won't chip and it just rolls. While generally true it's not always so. I've chipped a FSH and had to reprofile it. For choppers though, I keep a working edge to avoid damage like what you've encountered. I hope you can get it back to how you want it.
Click to expand...

I got it the way I want it now, only took it up to 1,000 grit, nice working edge and it's very sharp and it will hold up now. :)

I can take it all the way up to 7000 grit polish and it will be fine now that I have changed the edge profile. :thumbup:
 
Ankerson said:
I got it the way I want it now, only took it up to 1,000 grit, nice working edge and it's very sharp and it will hold up now. :)

I can take it all the way up to 7000 grit polish and it will be fine now that I have changed the edge profile. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

:thumbup::thumbup:
 
I've only got a ffbmle thus far she's so pretty I'm not sure I want to beat her up or not. I'm sure I'm probably doing an injustice to her for not using her as intended though. :( But I guess the spa can bring her back to life if I do decide to use her huh. I need to get another bm of some type but I'm not sure which one yet. I'm thinking nmfbm maybe. What do you think, or cgbm.
 
d762nato said:
I've only got a ffbmle thus far she's so pretty I'm not sure I want to beat her up or not. I'm sure I'm probably doing an injustice to her for not using her as intended though. :( But I guess the spa can bring her back to life if I do decide to use her huh. I need to get another bm of some type but I'm not sure which one yet. I'm thinking nmfbm maybe. What do you think, or cgbm.
Click to expand...

I really don't think you can go wrong with either one. :thumbup:

It depends on how heavy you want it to be. :)
 
I've been looking at the first two pictures for a while and still can't seem to find where the edge rolled and tore out. If I'm looking at the correct spot of the edge, the damage there looks to be minimal at best...which is acceptable for a working knife (especially a chopper). I will agree, though, that the second two look really good all polished up :).
 
safetyman said:
I've been looking at the first two pictures for a while and still can't seem to find where the edge rolled and tore out. If I'm looking at the correct spot of the edge, the damage there looks to be minimal at best...which is acceptable for a working knife (especially a chopper). I will agree, though, that the second two look really good all polished up :).
Click to expand...

It was worse than it looks, the camera angle wasn't that great. :o

But it wasn't as bad as the 1st time it happened, it looked worse than when I hit the concrete with my FFBM. :eek:

The damage was from the tip down about 3 inches.

Looking straight at the edge you could see how bad it really was, I stopped once I saw what it did, it could have been worse. ;)

All I could think of was crap (not the exact word I used), not again, time to reprofile it.
 
Last edited:
I think a blanket statement about thin INFI edges is too general.
Busse adjusts the heat treat based on several factors I am sure.
An example would be the BAD being HT to 62RC to toughen the thin edge:thumbup:
 
steelnut said:
I think a blanket statement about thin INFI edges is too general.
Busse adjusts the heat treat based on several factors I am sure.
An example would be the BAD being HT to 62RC to toughen the thin edge:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yeah, true, but then one isn't gonna use a BAD to chop down trees with. :D

The edge was very thin, I mean VERY thin as in too thin. ;)
 
Last edited:
Ankerson said:
The edge was very thin, I mean VERY thin. ;)
Click to expand...

Looks like one of Nozh's edges:p:p

I would guess that the BWM is around 59rc,
optimised for flexibility and shock absorbtion....
The HT for the BAD giving up some flex, but able to perform thin:thumbup:
All just my understanding:cool::foot:
 
steelnut said:
Looks like one of Nozh's edges:p:p

I would guess that the BWM is around 59rc,
optimised for flexibility and shock absorbtion....
The HT for the BAD giving up some flex, but able to perform thin:thumbup:
All just my understanding:cool::foot:
Click to expand...


I just took it down way too far for a chopper really, it was under 13 degrees. :eek:

The BWM does flex well. :D
 
I don't know. That doesn't look so bad to me, but then I consider such minor damage fair wear and tear. It's hard to tell for sure, but my edge looks as thin and has chopped without damage so far. I will take mine out today and do some chopping and see what happens. It did fine last time.
edge002.jpg

edge003.jpg

edge004.jpg
 
Last edited:
A 40 degree inclusive/20 either side secondary bevel and a 30 degree/15 either side back bevel as per the Spyderco Sharpmaker set up seems to work best for all my knives ...split so that the back bevel is 1/3rd and the secondary bevel of 40 degrees is two thirds of the "edge"....then using a paddle and green compound ....convex the edge to blend in the two so that you get a curved appleseed shape .... check it with a Jewellers Loop and a bright desk lamp ... and you have the best "re-profile" option I have ever found so far ....

It takes ages to do granted .... but once done you can use a Sharpie/magic marker on the edge and using a totally worn away belt which will remove little or no steel but will take away the "ink" ... you can practise presenting the blade to a belt sander to get the exact angle right where all the ink gets removed on a simple pass ...

I did it like this ... must have been the first 10 seperate sharpenings with my first Busse ... a Skinny Ash ... and now within reason I can "replicate" that edge straight from the "off" on a sander ...

But ... if I want to field sharpen it ...the angles on the Sharpmaker do a smashing job ... and by using the leather paddle I can stay on top of the edge at the end of every day I am away from home ...

It really works well:thumbup: Done all my "chopping" blades this way .... gives a really "robust" edge ....

When I say in other posts I have thinned down a blade ... it is not the edge ... it is the taper from the spine ... giving less resistance to the blade profile when chopping ... the thickness of the shoulder behind the edge ... that is where you can make a difference to how the knife performs IMHO ... but the "edge" angles always seem to work best for me at 40 degree secondary and 30 degree back bevel as per Spyderco's research .... ;)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top