This old anvil

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,626
I snagged up an anvil recently and am looking for some info on it and also some advice on how to get it into good working condition. I've done research online and haven't had much luck being able to identify it.

What I know:
There are no markings that I can find.
155lbs
26in long from the tip of the horn to heel
11in tall
Guy I got it from said it was his grandfathers. He was probably 50yrs old so I'd bet its probably at least 90-100yrs old.
There are some minor dents and dings in the face but no where near as bad as some I've seen. I paid less than a dollar a pound so I can't complain too much.
There seems to be good ring/rebound, especially on the center of the face.

Here are pictures:

















I've done some research and have a tentative game plan for restoration. I just wanted to get your guys' opinion before I dive in and screwed it up.

The face:
Use paint or something on the face and drag a metal yardstick/level across it to mark the high spots. Use a flap wheel with and angle grinder to hit the high spots and blend everything together. Repeats the process a few times and work up the grit progression with the flap wheels to get a decent polish on the face. Should I do this with water on the top to keep temps down?

The sides:
I'm throwing around d the idea of using a wire wheel on the angle grinder to remove some of the corroded surface. I'm not sure if I should even mess with that though.

Stand:
4x4s nailed or screwed together on end. Maybe wrap them with flat bar. Possibly use silicone or some tough/dense rubber to quiet it down. I have some horsestall mat I thought about using but its nearly 3/8in thick and that may work against me.

Anyway, I'd love to hear from you guys and would really appreciate some advice on how to get this thing in the best working condition possible.
 
For a stand, a lot of guys use a big un split log. As for refinishing it, I'm quite interested what others say. My dad bought one from a guy whose grandfather was a blacksmith. It's in the 300lb range. The top is about like yours.
 
for a stand, I screwed and glued 2x12's together and it works well. That anvil is ready to use, as is. The worst thing you can do to reduce potential performance and future resale value is to start grinding or welding on it trying to make it better. Without markings you will probably get a bunch of "it looks like a xxxxxxx to me" but you realistically wont really be able to 100 percent identify it.
 
Your anvil looks almost identical to mine. Mine is a Trenton but only 128lbs. Anvils are getting crazy expensive. The less you modify it the more value it will retain. But I suppose for it to be worth anything to YOU you will have to get the face in good working order. I'd leave the rest as is. As far as a stand, this is what I did:





 
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I'd say it's a Peter Wright because of the holddown flats between the feet. Should be a good anvil, but can't tell without using it. Clean the crud off the face and go to hammerin'......
 


Before


After

I just cleaned up the face with sandpaper,didnt worry about getting every mark out though ive seen people have machine shops mill their faces. Mine has a wrought iron body and hardened face plate.
 
i4Marc said:
Your anvil looks almost identical to mine. Mine is a Trenton but only 128lbs. Anvils are getting crazy expensive. The less you modify it the more value it will retain. But I suppose for it to be worth anything to YOU you will have to get the face in good working order. I'd leave the rest as is. As far as a stand, this is what I did:





Click to expand...

In my opinion the face is already in good working order. If you really need perfectly square or straight edges just forge a hardy tool for your neeeds. I4Marc, your anvil is in fantastic condition, it looks new! While awesome to have, that level of finish is not necessary for even the best smiths.
 
JMJones said:
It wont look jeweled and you will diminish its value, this is not good advise in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Of course I don't want to totally destroy the value of this anvil but I'm not really a collector either. I got this as a user. At the same time, if you think it could be worth a ton id probably just try and sell it and buy something new. What do you think an anvil like this could be worth? If I did keep it and smooth out the surface a bit, do you have any recommendations on how to do it without damaging it too much?

To everyone else, thanks a bunch for all the info, I really appreciate it. That would be nice if it was a Peter-Wright.
 
If your anvil is going to be a wall hanger, don't touch it. If on the other hand you want to use it, a smooth top will improve its usefulness. My advice was based on the latter scenario.
 
JMJ,

Thanks. I waited a while until I found this one a few years ago on the big auction site. I didn't notice from the pictures in the ad but when I received it I found that it had a large pipe flange welded to the bottom. Luckily for me whoever did it was a crappy welder. A couple of good whacks with a hammer and it popped right off. A little clean up on the underside with an angle grinder and a flap wheel to flatten out the bottom and she was ready to rock 'n roll. I wasn't suggesting that the OP dress his anvil face as clean as this one. I just meant he should bring it to a state that he is comfortable with in order to get the work done. I posted the pics only as an example of a stand that works pretty well, at least for me.
 
tiguy7 said:
View attachment 516957 If I were you, I would go after the top of the anvil with a cup grinding wheel. When you get done, it will look jeweled
Click to expand...

JMJones said:
It wont look jeweled and you will diminish its value, this is not good advise in my opinion.
Click to expand...

I have a railroad track that is roughed into an anvil shape, would one of those work for flattening the surface? And can one be used on a drill press?

Ive been looking to score an old anvil like the OP, but nothing has come up in my area <$250. I found this railroad track anvil in a guys garage for $15....
 
First things first, take a wire brush to the thing to knock off the loose rust and paint. On the top and the sides.

Your anvil looks to be in fine working order and the face doesn't require any grinding or sanding. Working hot iron on it will do more than enough abrading and a lot of the little dings will work out as a result.

Don't get too caught up on the idea that the face has to be perfectly flat and have sharp corners. This couldn't be further from the truth. A little sway in the face is great for straightening blades and certainly doesn't get in the way of your forging. Any little dings in the face will not transfer into your blade unless you're hammering harder than you should be.

The hard steel face plate is welded onto a wrought iron body on that model, and the face plates were never very thick. New from the factory, you could expect something on the order of 3/8" at the maximum, but years of work and people filing/grinding on it could have worn it down considerable. Any sanding you do will only shorten the lifespan of the anvil. Milling it down to flat would be a huge mistake.

Value? As is, it's easily worth $1.50 per pound. It's a good name brand and in good condition, with no serious chipping around the edges or cuts into the horn. The general standard for an anvil, anymore, is around $2/lb - but location and market demand play a big role in how much you can get. Because your anvil is right in the middle of that 'goldilocks zone' being neither too big nor too small, it's very sought after by folks. It's big enough to do any forging you would want, but still small enough to move around.

You shouldn't have any problems finding a buyer for it, and I wouldn't ask a penny less than $400 for it. Even with it cleaned up, the value is still there to a working smith. Antique/collector value wouldn't be harmed because you can always let it sit outside and collect some rust for a few months before you sell it.

Silicone caulk under the anvil will make it far more enjoyable to use. I've not seen anything that deadens an anvil's ring like silicone does, and without the need for bolting it down.
 
i4Marc said:
Your anvil looks almost identical to mine. Mine is a Trenton but only 128lbs. Anvils are getting crazy expensive. The less you modify it the more value it will retain. But I suppose for it to be worth anything to YOU you will have to get the face in good working order. I'd leave the rest as is. As far as a stand, this is what I did. ]
Click to expand...

I hope you don't mind me using your design... ;)

Very nice. I thought about standing 4x4s on end and making one but I could probably get the base/top flatter by doing them on their side, like yours.

When you move it using the bar, do you have any issue with it tilting to one side? I was thinking about using two bars and casters. Then I could run it around the shop like a little anvil rickshaw. :D
 
VaughnT said:
First things first, take a wire brush to the thing to knock off the loose rust and paint. On the top and the sides.

Your anvil looks to be in fine working order and the face doesn't require any grinding or sanding. Working hot iron on it will do more than enough abrading and a lot of the little dings will work out as a result.

Don't get too caught up on the idea that the face has to be perfectly flat and have sharp corners. This couldn't be further from the truth. A little sway in the face is great for straightening blades and certainly doesn't get in the way of your forging. Any little dings in the face will not transfer into your blade unless you're hammering harder than you should be.

The hard steel face plate is welded onto a wrought iron body on that model, and the face plates were never very thick. New from the factory, you could expect something on the order of 3/8" at the maximum, but years of work and people filing/grinding on it could have worn it down considerable. Any sanding you do will only shorten the lifespan of the anvil. Milling it down to flat would be a huge mistake.

Value? As is, it's easily worth $1.50 per pound. It's a good name brand and in good condition, with no serious chipping around the edges or cuts into the horn. The general standard for an anvil, anymore, is around $2/lb - but location and market demand play a big role in how much you can get. Because your anvil is right in the middle of that 'goldilocks zone' being neither too big nor too small, it's very sought after by folks. It's big enough to do any forging you would want, but still small enough to move around.

You shouldn't have any problems finding a buyer for it, and I wouldn't ask a penny less than $400 for it. Even with it cleaned up, the value is still there to a working smith. Antique/collector value wouldn't be harmed because you can always let it sit outside and collect some rust for a few months before you sell it.

Silicone caulk under the anvil will make it far more enjoyable to use. I've not seen anything that deadens an anvil's ring like silicone does, and without the need for bolting it down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. The wire brush sounds like a good place to start.
 
VaughnT said:
First things first, take a wire brush to the thing to knock off the loose rust and paint. On the top and the sides.

Your anvil looks to be in fine working order and the face doesn't require any grinding or sanding. Working hot iron on it will do more than enough abrading and a lot of the little dings will work out as a result.

Don't get too caught up on the idea that the face has to be perfectly flat and have sharp corners. This couldn't be further from the truth. A little sway in the face is great for straightening blades and certainly doesn't get in the way of your forging. Any little dings in the face will not transfer into your blade unless you're hammering harder than you should be.

The hard steel face plate is welded onto a wrought iron body on that model, and the face plates were never very thick. New from the factory, you could expect something on the order of 3/8" at the maximum, but years of work and people filing/grinding on it could have worn it down considerable. Any sanding you do will only shorten the lifespan of the anvil. Milling it down to flat would be a huge mistake.

.
Click to expand...

This is all very good advise. Exactly what I would have said if I liked to type. :D:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Renorattler said:
I have a railroad track that is roughed into an anvil shape, would one of those work for flattening the surface? And can one be used on a drill press?

Ive been looking to score an old anvil like the OP, but nothing has come up in my area <$250. I found this railroad track anvil in a guys garage for $15....
Click to expand...

The cup wheel in the photo is 5" in diameter, 2" thick, and sports a 5/8"X11TPI female thread. It is designed to be used on a large angle head grinder. If you're thinking of removing the crown on a RR rail, I would think it would take an awful long time.
 
i4Marc said:
Your anvil looks almost identical to mine. Mine is a Trenton but only 128lbs. Anvils are getting crazy expensive. The less you modify it the more value it will retain. But I suppose for it to be worth anything to YOU you will have to get the face in good working order. I'd leave the rest as is. As far as a stand, this is what I did:





Click to expand...
Sorry made a statement about the Bandit in the background off subject, retract statement.
 
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