I doubt it is worth a ton of money but as it sits it would be of interest for someone to use or collect. If you modify it much it would loose its appeal to collectors. If you accidentally grind into the soft body, it will loose its appeal to collectors and users. I would just wire brush it and use it for a year or so and see how it looks then and if you really need to do anything to it. If you are new to forging you dont even know what works/doesnt work, what you like/dont like ect, so modifying the anvil is putting the cart before the horse.
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This old anvil
- Thread starter JG Custom Metal Works
- Start date
I doubt it is worth a ton of money but as it sits it would be of interest for someone to use or collect. If you modify it much it would loose its appeal to collectors. If you accidentally grind into the soft body, it will loose its appeal to collectors and users. I would just wire brush it and use it for a year or so and see how it looks then and if you really need to do anything to it. If you are new to forging you dont even know what works/doesnt work, what you like/dont like ect, so modifying the anvil is putting the cart before the horse.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2011
- Messages
- 5,031
JG,
I don't mind at all if you use the design. That's why I showed it. I used 6x6s. It is probably more solid and stacks faster. Just so happens it leaves my particular anvil face right at my knuckles. Perfect! There is no risk of the assembly tipping to the side. It is very stable while at rest on the floor or while moving with the handle. The wheels are mounted just off the ground in the back so they only contact the floor when you tip the stand up to move it. I wouldn't put a stand on casters. I would think you'd want it to stay put when you're pounding steel, not chasing it around your shop. The stand with an anvil on it will get pretty heavy so don't use cheap casters. Use large heavy duty wheels. Use a rigid chassis for the wheels, not the kind that swivel. The single handle bar works very well so I doubt there is a need for doubling it. I used a Forstner bit in a cordless drill to make the hole for the handle. It is very easy to insert/remove the handle for moving. Drill your handle hole fairly deep, maybe 6-8".
I don't mind at all if you use the design. That's why I showed it. I used 6x6s. It is probably more solid and stacks faster. Just so happens it leaves my particular anvil face right at my knuckles. Perfect! There is no risk of the assembly tipping to the side. It is very stable while at rest on the floor or while moving with the handle. The wheels are mounted just off the ground in the back so they only contact the floor when you tip the stand up to move it. I wouldn't put a stand on casters. I would think you'd want it to stay put when you're pounding steel, not chasing it around your shop. The stand with an anvil on it will get pretty heavy so don't use cheap casters. Use large heavy duty wheels. Use a rigid chassis for the wheels, not the kind that swivel. The single handle bar works very well so I doubt there is a need for doubling it. I used a Forstner bit in a cordless drill to make the hole for the handle. It is very easy to insert/remove the handle for moving. Drill your handle hole fairly deep, maybe 6-8".