Thninking of convexing my Boker Rhino

M

Mr. Dull Edge

Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
58
Thinking of convexing my Boker plus Rhino.
It has a hollow grind on it now.
What do you guys think of this?
 
Ok, thx for the pix. My opinion is that given that it is hollow ground, I would not fully convex the entire grind, as this would take away too much stock. Only convex the edge, if you must. Very nice knife, btw!
 
Simple hand sharpening with a stropping on leather will be more than enough convex for the bevel.
 
timcsaw said:
Paper wheels would work well also wouldn't they.
Click to expand...
knifenut1013 said:
O yes... better than anything for the next 100 years.....
Click to expand...
oh-boy-here-we-go.jpg




I'm not too keen on convexing, but using wet/dry sandpaper pinned to a foam mouse pad will suffice. Start with a low grit with very low pressure and then move up. Finish with a strop.

I don't really like convex edges all that much, but you really can't mess one up too badly.
 
Heiheit said:
I'm not too keen on convexing, but using wet/dry sandpaper pinned to a foam mouse pad will suffice.
Click to expand...

I think convex edges are mostly a marketing gimmick with perhaps a slight performance enhancement suited primarily to axes and large choppers, where wedging might be an issue. But I was reading on another forum, that practically worships convex edges to an almost humorous degree, that the mousepad is no longer a recommended substrate. Apparently they are just now realizing the inherent risk of convexing by hand - having the abrasive in one misguided stroke run over the apex of the edge, thereby instantly destroying all the hard work that was put into sharpening. But in any case, the party line there seems to now recommend a harder backing, though I assume this would provide less of that magic convexness that is so chic right now.
 
theonew said:
I think convex edges are mostly a marketing gimmick with perhaps a slight performance enhancement suited primarily to axes and large choppers, where wedging might be an issue. But I was reading on another forum, that practically worships convex edges to an almost humorous degree, that the mousepad is no longer a recommended substrate. Apparently they are just now realizing the inherent risk of convexing by hand - having the abrasive in one misguided stroke run over the apex of the edge, thereby instantly destroying all the hard work that was put into sharpening. But in any case, the party line there seems to now recommend a harder backing, though I assume this would provide less of that magic convexness that is so chic right now.
Click to expand...

Some people swear by them, but I've never gotten it really. Sure they come out pretty sharp, they might be stronger than a v bevel, but I'm not sure; I'm no expert. I also think they're not as appealing; I like the distinct angle change of a well ground V bevel, not how a convex "blends" with the blade. That being said, I think they look pretty wicked on Busse's,machetes,hatchets, etc. Just not folders.
 
I say go for it. I prefer convex edges on my knives.

I can't prove it with my own empirical data, but all things being equal, I think they stay sharper longer and are inherently stronger -- less likely to roll and chip -- because there's more metal backing up the edge. I'm no expert, though, so I could be a bit off base, but I've read various knowledgeable knifemakers say the same.

I convexed my GEC Scout (1095 steel) b/c the factory V edge was so shallow and cut so poorly. It was easy to do and I love the results.

Just used a couple different grits of sand paper on my ottoman -- like 240 and 600, I think -- and then stropped with the back of an old leather belt. I don't know whether it'd be more effort for the Rhino's steel or not.

I plan to buy higher-grit sandpaper to do a better job in the future, but can't find it at any hardware stores I've visited.

I find convex edges easier to maintain, personally -- rather than worrying about edge angles, which I don't have experience with maintaining, nor any sharpening devices that would aid in doing so.

I plan to convex all of my knives, once the factory edges go dull.
 
I havn't convexed any folders yet, but almost all my fixed blades are. I think that the convex edge gives much better cutting performance and longer edge life. I work on leather, not a mouse pad, because of the risk of damaging the work. I believe that convexing is a great option for you and that you will be pleasantly pleased with the results. Go for it.
 
chrisber, i sharpened a couple of knives for the op and he was impressed with the convex edge i put on one knife he brought. i sharpened the v edge on the rhino but he changed his mind after playing with the one i convexed. the hollow grind on the rhino left a thick shoulder on the knife that has to be taken down to make it a good slicer. check out some of my vids at my website if you want to see some sharp knives. where in kentucky are you at? i'm in ohio.
 
theonew said:
I think convex edges are mostly a marketing gimmick with perhaps a slight performance enhancement suited primarily to axes and large choppers, where wedging might be an issue.
Click to expand...

Better let Busse, Bark River, Fallkniven, et al know about this....they seem to have it all wrong....:confused:
 
richard j said:
the hollow grind on the rhino left a thick shoulder on the knife that has to be taken down to make it a good slicer.
Click to expand...


This is the exact reason I am such a fan of convexing now. That shoulder at the top of the secondary bevel creates a lot of resistance when cutting, especially in harder materials. I may have to give my EDC folder a convexing.
 
chrisber said:
This is the exact reason I am such a fan of convexing now. That shoulder at the top of the secondary bevel creates a lot of resistance when cutting, especially in harder materials. I may have to give my EDC folder a convexing.
Click to expand...

The 'rounded shoulders' of a convexed blade really do make a difference, especially in tougher materials (cardboard, leather, etc.). I wouldn't have believed it a year ago, but I've been trying it out for a bit now, and the slicing is a whole bunch 'slicker' than with a V-bevel. I've especially noticed this with small blades (pocketknives) when cutting into paper. Push cuts much more easily, and whisper-quiet. It seems to me, that 'ripping noise' heard when cutting paper with a V-bevel is due, in large part, to the hard shoulder of the 'V' dragging against the paper.

I have noticed, in the past, that some factory grinds on V-bevelled knives leave a noticable burr at the shoulder, sometimes enough to catch with a fingernail. That's obviously not an issue with the rounded shoulder of a convex edge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top