thoughts on my ultimate skinner design

like i said off forum hard to find something "new" moer of how style can be implamented


looks liek the ramp to the thumb "rest" needs to be smoiothed make one and see how it fits yur hand and ife your hands aer AVG. then thats a place to start
 
I know you have a plan, but the learning curve is just a flat line until you start doing... If you don't want to put a handle on, then do the blade and tang do the handle later or do the tang and handle later. If you don't have antler for the handles, it can be had for very cheap on ebay. You'd be surprised at how fast that angle grinder can profile a blade and bevels... heck do a thrower instead of one of the skinners and have it ready to heat treat when you get the forge tweaked or gassed up.
 
cant do a blade til i get my belts in. still waiting on UPS. should be in by today if not monday. i hope. im not going to switch to a venturi burner for my forge. i like the blown burner style. ill just find a stronger blower or see if i can get the heat i need once it gets dark again. if i can get the heat with the right atmosphere ill be happy. i still need to finish setting up my grinder and order another arbor adapter for it. i have the buffer almost completely setup. but not the stone wheel grinder. once i get everything setup in my shop then ill get to work.
 
if you want to check the feel of a blade and how your hand may work with it, grab some basswood, or masonite, make a mock up of the blade, and see if there are any places the blade catches you.

Ken
 
darren gave me an idea like that last weekend. i plan to do that for any new design i do. thanks for the advice.
 
I like your "thinking outside of the box" mindset, Jacob -but in my honest opinion, I don't think the design will work well. Most skinning involves blood and guts (slippery stuff) and a handle that's pointed may slip out of the hand, plus no guard risks injury to the user.

IMHO, the ultimate design has to be Bob Loveless' drop point hunter:

http://knifelegends.com/LovelessStagDropNS.htm
 
cant do a blade til i get my belts in. .

Hi Jacob.....I can see some flaws in your design that some have already mentioned..but, if you believe in it and think it will work, then the proof is in making a prototype, tweaking the designs till it works (or not)....and if that doesnt work, design another , and so on.


My 2 cents......Do not rely too much on what equipment you have or not have...knives can be made on a budget .......as an example, go take a look at Tim Lively web site
http://www.livelyknives.com/
 
it would be the other way around. the skinning knife with the guthook would be the bottom one and the brother would be on top.
 
in my opinion gut hooks are about as good as lug nut locks! they are there to help but when you need to take it off you find out you have lost the key.
my experience with gut hooks its a nice thought but when you need it the thing gets to dull to fast. hard to sharpen and get the edge you need to do pull cuts with it; and when you do get it to work it tends to cut off center and usually ends up cutting hide in the rib section of the deer. plus you have to use the other end of the knife to get a hole started and get fustraded with it and use the slicing edge anyways to do the job.

maybe you could try a reverce hook to do a push cut or something.
i think you are trying to make an ultamit caping knife 1 to free the hyde from the flesh. which would be done later at home after gutting the deer and checking it in.

i used to be the family deer skinner in my teenage years for all my uncles and immediate family.
 
thats basically my goal. to make the ultimate knife or combo knife set. i find taht when skinning you dont really need a big knife cause it just gets in the way at times. thats why i designed that little one. the brother is for after you finish skinning. if a knife is sharp enough you dont need to make a starting hole. you just need to start a slice and then grab the gut hook. i find that using a knife instead of a gut hook you have a chance of cutting too deep casue the blade and super sharp and you can slice the stomach open. thats why i like gut hooks. the brother is small enough you can get into those tight spaces and save alot of the meat that the bigger knives cant get to. another reason why i designed the skinner with the edge rolling over is to speed up the process and have less fatigue on your hand and wrist. any other ideas on handle design that will help this out?
 
the knife i made for kaping is rounded at the end and a little thicker in the handle material. best i can describe it is like a tear drop but without the point at the top thats where the blade is.

and instead of a fancy finger guard i used a rounded grinding wheel and wobbled the area till it fit my finger and grooved it on the sides there too.
 
On the subject of teh gut hook, I have always like the square cut gut hooks. The rounded ones look better but a nice square u shape gut hook not only has worked better for me but is also easy to sharpen. Just my 2 cents.
 
For my 2 cents, I really do like the creativity! But ... and it's just MHO, when I dress a deer ... one of the first cuts I make circles the anus to enable the colon to be pulled out ... and that rounded blade doesn't look like it would work too well for that. That "point" aside, a small rounded blade wouldn't be such a bad idea as a skinner vs. an all-around/all-purpose deer hunting knife.

Maybe make a couple of model from cardboard and see how it feels?
 
nailcreek, if you look at the brother it is the pointed skinny knife. its used for all other cuts. its made to get into those tight places. after a few tweakings and all im sure it will be a great combo. small, lightweight, and easy to use.
 
i think the reason why you mostly find round is because as it slides down the hide its cutting and slicing. whereas with the square its just cutting with no slicing action. thats just what comes to mind to me. just my opinion. correct me if im wrong tho.
 
Prehaps in theory, but in reality I have found the squared notch to be much better at openeing up an animal without incedent. I think the deeper surface allows for a better cutting angle. The small rounded gut hooks tend to have steep grind angles, while if you look att the buck it has a longer edge and a better angle. Also the little bit of space seems to keep the hook from catching slipping (dont know if thats really the right words for it). The squard out ones tend to cut like the old guthooks you slipped razor blades into. I think the flat cutting area allows for great zippering of the animal while the width allows for a bit of back and forth motion that naturally occurs when you are working. Sorry if my terms are wrong, I learned from old guys and it werent to technical of a discussion. :P The back of teh hook could still be rounded so it didnt catch up inside, but the cutting surface seems to do better flat IMO. Alot of skinning knives as of late have been opening up that gut hook area.
 
Back
Top