Threading the end of hidden tang knives

R

RAU

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Jul 16, 2013
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I've been playing around drawing down the end of the tang of hidden tang knife, rounding the best I can on anvil then further rounding with files and then threading. It seems like it will be a great, simple connection. It doesn't seem like anyone does this. I did see a guy (trollsky) do it on you tube but everyone else seems to be brazing on lengths of threaded rod or other more complicated connections. What's wrong with just drawing down the tang, rounding and filing to size and threading? Thanks
 
Lots of folks thread them.

I like to thread with a 6X1.0mm or a 1/4-20 tap. After threading, I grind the sides to thin the threaded part so the guard will slip on.
 
All my thru tangs are done that way. Pretty sure it's a fairly common technique.
Darcy:)
 
One reason people braze threaded tang extensions on, is to be able to use a bigger thread than the guard will slip over. It works if you permanently fit the guard, then braze your tang end on. The way Stacy describes, of grinding the sides flat to fit the guard over, will often work depending on the knife. Other times, brazing the tang end on allows more flexibility in the design process. I have done it both ways many times.
Here is the last one I did, threading the forged tang end.
DSC03111.JPG
 
Ok thanks guys, I didn't think it was that common and was surprised since it seems fairly simple and strong
 
Round it on your grinder to a size ever so larger than the final dimension. Then go to Home Depot and buy a little tap and die set. Non hardened carbon steel is not difficult to thread.
 
Or you can just taper the tang a little bit ;)
Salem Straub said:
One reason people braze threaded tang extensions on, is to be able to use a bigger thread than the guard will slip over. It works if you permanently fit the guard, then braze your tang end on. The way Stacy describes, of grinding the sides flat to fit the guard over, will often work depending on the knife. Other times, brazing the tang end on allows more flexibility in the design process. I have done it both ways many times.
Here is the last one I did, threading the forged tang end.
DSC03111.JPG
Click to expand...
 
Salem Straub said:
One reason people braze threaded tang extensions on, is to be able to use a bigger thread than the guard will slip over. It works if you permanently fit the guard, then braze your tang end on. The way Stacy describes, of grinding the sides flat to fit the guard over, will often work depending on the knife. Other times, brazing the tang end on allows more flexibility in the design process. I have done it both ways many times.
Here is the last one I did, threading the forged tang end.
DSC03111.JPG
Click to expand...

The question is not if its tapered but if "it will kiiilllllll"
 
Another method that has not been mentioned is the "clevis" setup. if your tang is thick enough, you slot it and then grid the end of a piece of allthread flat on the end. Drills holes in both and pin the threaded rod into place and peen the ends of the pins. this really would only work if you plan to glue it up, but ti makes buttcap alignment a LOT easier.
 
I distal taper my tangs and use 1/4-20 for the thread-even tapering from 5/16" to 1/4" works, and for me it's almost always a sword or bowie. The distal helps the handling as well.
 
Yes, I taper the tang and start threading. The tap will slow down as the tang gets too thick. If needed, I thin down a little more with a file.
 
And there you have it from the guy who knows as much as anyone you are going to meet about threading tangs. :thumbup:
Karl B. Andersen said:
If you can't trust your steel to thread it, then you can't trust the blade, either.
Click to expand...
 
It takes barely more than an inch of bar stock to draw out a hidden tang.
And it's not a waste - you're using for the tang!!
As well, if you have control, whatsoever, of your grain and post forging procedure, you are far more likely to break a weld/braze joint than you are the steel itself.
Doing extra steps are almost never "faster".

First grind your tang square - very easy on your flat platen - to just slightly larger than the diameter of your thread size. I mostly use 10-32, so I grind to about .200. (Final dimension of .190")


Then, grind the corners off to the same dimension:



Then gently round over the octagon:



Thread:






You ain't gonna break it:





 
The proof strength of a grade 2 10-32 screw is almost 1000 pounds.
Tool steel like we use in blades (grade 5?) is more like 1300 pounds.
 
Add to that the fact that even with takedown knives like Karl makes, the fit of the tang within the handle should be tight enough that the only stress is in "tension" running the length of the tang except when you are tightening down the nut. Not an easy task to yank the end off of your tang and it you twist it off, bad on you.
 
Joe, truth is, you only have to get close on the tight fit. With it being connected at both ends, and then tightened down, what happens in between is almost irrelevant.

When building my knives, I use temporary finials. I have one I've been using a dozen years - hundreds of knives. When I tighten it down, I use vise grips. Probably 2-3 times tighter than will ever be done with the take-down tool.
In all this time, I have not had one - not one - break or twist off.

My JS performance knife was a full take-down.
 
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