Tips, Tricks, & Useful Finds(FAQs too)

ddean

ddean

Joined
Mar 26, 2002
Messages
3,397
I'm adding to / updating my own existing posts on this thread as I get new info.
Of course others should add appropriate posts as well.

Common searches with keywords:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=2423414#post2423414

Wood handle / grip -- Rouge cleaning
post moved to post #4 below ==>
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2303645#post2303645

Noobies/NewBees:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3195617#post3195617
Knew Khuk Khonnoisseur's Kwick Khoncise Khompendium of Khommon Khwuestions Khunsidered

==============================================

. . . L I N K S . . . & . . . R E F E R E N C E S . . . (various)

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knifemaker supply supplies
http://www.alphaknifesupply.com

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Anhydrous lanolin source
Order thru any pharmacy, but fairly expensive compared to bulk.
There's an online bulk source mentioned 3rd post of this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=262222
also some tech references re anhydrous lanolin
http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html
http://www.apothecary-shoppe.com/pr...products_id=703
http://essentialoil.com/veggie.html

----------------------------

An old tips thread:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158454

----------------------------

Long list of suppliers for all bladesmithing needs
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109365
OLD list, but likely still a good resource.

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Knife-making link list:
www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html

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----------------------------

oil for steel
choji camillia camellia camelia mineral olive iodine drying

good discussion thread, with several links:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275731

www.bladegallery.com/information/info_ivory_using.asp

www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227212

----------------------------

!!!!!!!
Many blade topics in
http://www.keenjunk.com/cgi-bin/hse/HomepageSearchEngine.cgi
Search "Junkyard" forging threads archive
at http://www.keenjunk.com/junkyard.htm
of KeenJunk website
THE JUNKYARD FORUM FOR BLACKSMITHS

Instructions & sketches RE forging
www.keenjunk.com/sketchbk/sketchbk.htm
Wow !

FAQ's on smithing
http://www.keenjunk.com/bdc/bgdogcat.htm
Wow!

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The Gaijin's Guide Video Series
"The Japanese Sword Restoration Guide"
http://www.islandnet.com/~gaijin/guide.htm
recommended by Don Fogg
-->
Gaijin's Sanding block system used by Don Fogg
http://www.dfoggknives.com/SandingBlock.htm

----------------------------

Don Fogg website
http://www.dfoggknives.com/index.htm

Site Map
VERY long list - browse or FIND on the page
http://www.dfoggknives.com/site_map.htm

The Craft of Bladesmithing
http://www.dfoggknives.com/craftof.htm

Techniques
http://www.dfoggknives.com/techniques.htm

Hand tool shaping
Sen scraper files
http://www.dfoggknives.com/handwork.htm

Shop Tips - 8 pages
www.dfoggknives.com/shop_tips.htm

Bladesmithing tools - making of
http://www.dfoggknives.com/tools.htm

tool supply links
http://www.dfoggknives.com/tools_and_supplies.htm

4 catagories of other links
http://www.dfoggknives.com/links.htm


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arts & crafts from around the world
www.folkart.com/index.htm
organized by country & type of work

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Tagua nut vegetable ivory
www.tagua2go.com/index.htm
info & order & art galleries

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drying green wood:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310298
discussion & several info links:
www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1263
www.woodturningplus.com/boiling_dry.htm
woodworkersworld.homestead.com/fall_2002_p1.html
homepages.ihug.co.nz/~rhaslip/Rex/workshop/microwave/microwav.htm

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Blades & blade battle articles & Links - historical & other
www.rmsg.us/fire/blades.htm
from
www.rmsg.us/articles.htm
Headings
BIO-REGIONAL SURVIVAL CITY & SUBURB SURVIVAL RURAL SURVIVAL Book & Magazine Reviews Clothing & Textiles Co-ops & Communities Communications Defense Environment & Healthy Living Farming & Gardening Financial Survival Firearms & Weaponry Fodder & Brew Fuel Production General Survival Skills Government Heat & Power Home Economics Hunting, Skinning & Tanning Medical & Psychological Survival Military Field Manuals Natural & Manmade Disasters Permanent Shelter/Homes Planning & Preparation Primitive Industry RMSG Wilderness Survival Guide Science & Education Supplies, Suppliers & Kits Survival Book/Video/DVD Store Transportation Water, Wells & Plumbing Contributing Writer's Page Unresearched Links Viewer's Submissions Suggest Topic Area Meg's Editorials

For a more complete (long!) listing, visit the Table of Contents Page
www.rmsg.us/toc.htm

----------------------------

gun related info/discussion topics:
yarchive.net/gun/index.html

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Citrus Solvent / Orange oil
Good detailed info & good links
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=261346

----------------------------

Museum Conservation Reference Manual
Care of Metals, Wood, Bone, Leather & more
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=277433
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/class/anth605/File0.htm

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Pecard Leather Dressing &
Blade Conservation article from www.swordforum.com
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=263756

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How to post pictures; (with new forum software somewhat out of date)
Pendentive's thread:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=219367

----------------------------

Homemade Firearm Cleaners & Lubricants;
often good for blades too:
home.sprynet.com/~frfrog/homemade.htm
Good MSDS links too.

Associated thread with more info:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=275217
Which includes highlights from another site's
thread on various common & uncommon lubricants
& water displacers. (WD40)

Firepower FP-10 lubricant / rust preventative
http://www.fp10.com/indexmain.htm

----------------------------
Lists of
Online sources of animal parts---
horn antler bone exotic leather more:
Exotic handle material:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2319915&postcount=18
with links to other threads

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evaluating unknown 'steel'
what is it, really?
www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/junkyard_steel.htm

Composition of knifemaking steels:
www.primosknives.com/articles/steelcmp.htm

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LOTS of good technical/industrial articles on steel--
Heat-treating / alloys / welding / stress / more:
www.key-to-steel.com/Articles.htm
Includes:
Strengthening mechanisms in alloy steel
www.key-to-steel.com/Articles/Art11.htm
&
Quench Hardening, Good info on phase conversions during:
www.key-to-steel.com/Articles/Art12.htm

----------------------------

A well-researched article on European pattern-welded blades.
The bibliography is almost as long as the article;
which is pretty short.
www.geocities.com/Athens/Forum/2644/tavis/tpatweld.html

----------------------------

Nice & comprehensive overview of buffing & polishing,
lots of lists & tables; intended for jewelers,
but useful reference for any metal finishing.
www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/buffing-material.htm

-----------------------------

Bladesmith resource scrounging thread from Bladeforums:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=287768

Jewelers' guide to scrounging
includes polishing & chemicals
A short article:
www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/jewelers_tools.htm

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The materials used in 19th and 20th century plaster--

Glossary:
www.plasterarc.net/essay/essay/Cassarindex.html

Article--from lime and gypsum to Portland cement:
www.plasterarc.net/essay/essay/Joa.html


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icon1.gif


<:eek:> THEY call me 'Dean' <>
dean-sp-sm.jpg

<:)> JMO-M2C-fWiW-iIRC-YMMV-fYI-TiA-YW-GL ***Caution: Not all ideas originating in this brain are entirely based on empirical data.
<:D> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Carbide-Blade Scraper at Harbor Frieght for $5,

I used one edge of one blade to re-bevel a 25" Sirupati,
and the scraper blade seems as good as new.
Only thing to watch for is scraper chatter
(bumping up & down)
until you get a feel for when to increase or decrease pressure,
and the angles to use.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39392
3 double-sided replacement blades $2 (often $1 on sale).
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42285
39392.gif


$4 version, with smaller 3-sided blades:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40895
40895.gif


===========

I'm not sure what grit I'd call the scratches left by the blade,
but they are smaller than a sandpaper that removes
as much metal as quickly.

size:
The carbide blade in the first one:
"ITEM 42285-1VGA---Carbide blades are 2-1/2'' long and lasts 50 times longer than conventional steel blades. For Item 39392"

These are the least expensive carbide blades I've found.

Originally posted by firkin .......Wonder if there are versions that look like drawknives with two handles?
Click to expand...
The blade is held to the handpiece by a small plate & machine screw.

So it should be easy to fabricate a wood handle
of any shape & grip style.
Most basic could be a large diameter dowel with a small slot
into which the blade would press-fit.
Or two half dowels squeezed together by a couple of screws,
or some similar combo.

Hmmmmmmm.....

Not a bad idea............

One more project to add to the list.


As it stands, the scraper is very 'handy'.
One or two hands, toward you or away, left, right, diagonals & curves.

I just wish thay had a curved blade for doing fullers.
My effort trying to grind a curve onto one of these was
a most miserable failure.

~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<> call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
The blade scraper is a cool idea. I've read that some swordsmiths, fabricate a hard drawknife-like tool to finish up the blade after forging. Course that's before hardening--But with carbide, I guess it shouldn't matter. Wonder if there are versions that look like drawknives with two handles?

Did it leave less deep scratches to polish out than coarse stones or sandpaper? Seems like it could be cheaper, too. How wide is the blade?

The old Murphy's concentrate is great stuff. If one doesn't mind going through some sandpaper, one can just wet sand with it also go get rid of the rouge.
 
Removing rouge from wood handles,
-without- raising the grain of the wood!:

1-Rub on Murphy's Oil Soap Original formula.
Use it straight with -NO water-.
Set aside & let it get as dry as it will get.
This protects the wood from water in the next step.

2-Get SoftScrub (plain & orange works, -not- the bleach version)
[or similar calcium carbonate cleaner]
& rub it all over the handle with your hand.
Rinse & reapply until you stop getting pink.

3-rub Softscrub into the grooves, which will still contain rouge.

4-get a length of -unwaxed- dental floss
(or other fine strong thread)
& with the blade secured somehow
(I stick the blade into a big, OLD phonebook beside the sink)
wrap the dental floss around your fingers
(I usually double the floss to get a little thicker thread)
and 'saw' it around the grooves.
Rinse & reapply until all the rouge is out of the rings.

5-Rinse, & dry well.

Woodchuck


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<> call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links--A--T--H--D
 
Drawknife--

Maybe a piece of aluminum rod, or better soft steel rod? Like the stuff they make laboratory supports from. Cut to length, get somebody to machine a flat and a tapped hole (or make flat in back for nut), then add grips of your choice.

Should be really quick (not very expensive?) job for a decent machinist.

2.5 in. sounds long enough for just about any bevel. For more than a couple of khuks, it sounds faster and less expensive.

For fullers, the only thing I've been able to think of is the waterstones, I think called "slips" for sharpening the inside of gouges and curved chisels. Haven't gotten around to trying them--of course, since they wear fairly fast, they wouldn't be that great for major reshaping.
 
Somewhere I picked up the perfect file for those small grooves along the top of some blades. It's a double-ended super slim (1/8") rat-tail file curved at both ends into different radii. (I've never used that word before. I hope I spelled it right.) :rolleyes:
Rouge is such a PITA I stopped using it years ago. After sanding down to 600 a little 4/0 steel wool, then a dab of Simichrome on a rag and it's done - brass, N. S. or any handle material (except wood, of course.) For wood I rub out the last coat of varnish, lacquer, oil finish or whatever with pumice powder and a bit of olive oil or mineral oil on a soft flannel pad. It gives a soft, luster that's not "plasticy." For a higher polish, use powdered rottenstone the same way after the pumice. I got the Pumice and rottenstone at an art supply store, you might find them at a professional grade paint store too. Also Brownells sells a commercial version for gunstock finishing.
 
I was thinking of the big wide fullers like on the Gelbu special or Chitlangi--dunno what ddean was thinking. (Hard enough for me to know what I'm thinking).

Putting a little chromium oxide (the waxy stick kind) on a piece of worn 600 grit paper, and then on a leather pad does an OK job of blending things into the "magic stone" finish.

After getting a couple of khuks (recently, they seem not so bad) that were really caked-up with rouge mixed with the wax they use on the wood handles, I'd try and avoid using the stuff too. Big PITA.

I know what pumice is, and where it comes from, what is rottenstone? Chalk or diatomaceous earth??
 
Originally posted by firkin
what is rottenstone? Chalk or diatomaceous earth??
Click to expand...
I think it's limestone.

Let me check.

Yep.

"rottenstone
SYLLABICATION: rot·ten·stone
PRONUNCIATION: rtn-stn
NOUN: A soft decomposed limestone, used in powder form as a polishing material.

The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language: Fourth Edition. 2000. "

=========Edit Correction===============================

Actually a refinement:
http://www.probertencyclopaedia.com/HH.HTM
"ROTTENSTONE is a light, porous, somewhat friable,
siliceous rock used for polishing steel and other metals.
It consists almost entirely of silica, with a small percentage of alumina and other impurities,
and is derived from siliceous limestones
after the removal of the calcareous matter."

Which I'm guessing is done by a simple acid washdown
of the powdered limestone.
 
If you don't have a local woodcrafting shop or other source for non-native hardwoods,

Try the local discount & import shops.
You can pick the wood piece you like best,
rather than depending on a blind order.

I found a very heavy wood candle-stand imported from India; for $2.
Trim the carving away & the remaining wood is 5-1/2" long and 2" diameter.
Just right to make a handle for most khuks.
Don't know the wood, but it's very dense & has a great visible grain.
 
If you want a better chakma that will last a lifetime
and not disappear down the crack in the sofa?

order a sharpening steel from Woodcraft or other tool supplier.

http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft...uct_family.asp,family_id=262&Tree=,Burnishers

They call it a burnisher,
for rolling a hook onto the edge of a scraper.

It's a smooth large rod, much different from a butcher's steel.
Probably others available cheaper if we looked.

-------------------------------

Butcher's steels have (usually?) ridges running the length.
And they act somewhat as a file.

Real, used butchers steels can be found for $1-$9 (or more)
at flea markets, thrift shops, junk & antique shops,.....
These are big & heavy.

Our local $1 stores all carry usable butchers steels in
the kitchen or tool aisles.
They have plastic handles, but, hey, it's the hard steel rod you need.
& you can make a new handle if you like.
 
Murphy's Oil Soap - original formula

I've commonly seen it in pint ($3) or quart ($5) bottles.

Today I found a Jar of the same,
but thicker. Very thick, like a clear paste.
$4 for one pound.
And it is Very close to 16-oz volume.

1-Tablespoon of the jar contents is the same as
1/4-Cup of the standard liquid.
(Based on suggested dilutions on the label.)

1 Pint = 2 Cups = 8 quarter cups
Jar = 2 Cups = 30 Tablespoons

So the jar is much cheaper if you plan to use that much.
And if you're going to let it dry in place,
it will do so much faster from the jar.

They describe use on leather in the same way as saddle soap.
Wonder if it's basically the same content.
 
"Murphy's Oil Soap - original formula

I've commonly seen it in pint ($3) or quart ($5) bottles.

Today I found a Jar of the same, but thicker. Very thick, like a clear paste. $4 for one pound. And it is Very close to 16-oz volume.

1-Tablespoon of the jar contents is the same as 1/4-Cup of the standard liquid. (Based on suggested dilutions on the label.)"

Wow.

It really is amazing how much people will pay for tapwater.
 
Originally posted by ddean

I just wish thay had a curved blade for doing fullers.
My effort trying to grind a curve onto one of these was
a most miserable failure.
Click to expand...

'ere ya go:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&page=44507&category=1,190,43040,43041&ccurrency=2


I have found it pays off to pay attention to the tools of other hobbies/professions as there are often crossover uses!
Also, all kinds of sharpening stuff in the free Veritas Woodworking catalog where I found this item.
 
Originally posted by ddean
http://www.make-stuff.com/formulas/6plastic.html
Click to expand...
Interesting!
I wonder if this fomula would be good for handle material? You could make a mold of your favorite handle and would have minimal carving and cleanup.

Quoted from www.make-stuff.com
"FORMULA 4:

Dissolve one pound of flake or powdered glue in water by boiling. Shred enough tissue paper into the solution to give body and then stir until a thick batter results. Add one cup of LINSEED OIL into the solution and one cup of POWDERED CHALK. Stir well and then remove this mass from the double boiler and when cool enough, knead with the hands and press into molds. A pair of old gloves, slightly oiled with pure light oil may be used to protect the hands when kneading these materials.

It takes a few days for this material to thoroughly harden but at the end of that time, it should be as hard as stone and resembles carved wood. It will make excellent art goods such as book ends, tie racks, coat hangers, statues, etc."
 
Originally posted by AKA Knife Knut
'ere ya go: I have found it pays off to pay attention to the tools of other hobbies/professions as there are often crossover uses!
Click to expand...
Thanks, looks like just what I want.
& the price is reasonable.
97k5210g2.jpg


Crossover--Yes.
Boat supply stores are good source for woodfinishing supplies
& other polishing/finishing supplies.
Automobile body supplies cover grinding, polishing, waxing, .......
Lapidary supplies......
Model building supplies........
Craft supplies..........
Tile laying supplies........
Ceramic/pottery supplies............
 
Originally posted by SeanH
I wonder if this fomula would be good for handle material? You could make a mold of your favorite handle and would have minimal carving and cleanup.
Click to expand...
I thought of that too.
I think there's a place for it,
though mostly I'd prefer real wood.

A commercial 'rock' material is Durham's Water Putty:
www.waterputty.com
It is gypsum-based (I think).
The material is -much- harder than common plaster when set,
(although there are many specialized varieties of 'plaster')
I don't know about Water Putty's -strength-,
as in "how much pressure can a half-inch thick stick take
before it snaps."
The material is intended as a filler.
It is very heat resistant;
and seems to be the material of choice for making
model rocket motor nozzles for those people
who also pack their own propellants.
OTOH, it is -somewhat- porous once dry, so it could be -soaked-
with all sorts of liquids to help impart other characteristics.
Water Putty can be carved with a knife.

Another gypsum product is Hydrocal & other brands.
Hydrocal is reported more stonelike than 'water putty'
& cannot be carved with a knife.

A good reference site for many brands of gypsum products is:
http://www.gypsumsolutions.com/brand.asp


The formula you point out -is- more of a -plastic- material.

Then too, there's always plastic casting resin sold for craft-work;
similar to fiberglass resin---
which also does well in molds; At least small ones.

Epoxy (adhesive) is expensive to try to mold anything very large,
but if you're making something small.........

Then there's auto body fillers.

Other plastics available include hot-melt types
of variable but unknown strength to me.
Model scenery 'water', floral/decorative embedding plastic water.

Plastic 'artificial worms' used for fishing can be melted
in a double-boiler and used to make flexible 'cushion' type castings.
This material is available 'raw' for people making their own 'worms'.

Kid crafts include plastic casting kits to make all sorts of stuff.

These remind me a lot of hot-melt adhesive; which seems to be
essentially plastic--and which comes in numerous types
with greater and lesser flexibility & other characteristics.
I've seen this used to mold small items.

& hobby/craft supplies include synthetic clay materials
of various strengths & characteristics.
Some dry on exposure to air & some require baking.
 


Online sources of animal parts /
horn antler bone exotic leather more:

www.boonetrading.com
www.hideandfur.com
www.springfieldleather.com
www.eidnesfurs.com
www.boneroom.com/bone/boneintro.html
www.clawantlerhide.com
www.knifehandles.com
www.furskins.com
www.allamericangator.com
www.amtan.com/shopping.htm
&
www.giraffebone.com/index.htm
has many knife specialty items at (Norman, Oklahoma from South Africa):


rayskin sources locate locating:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=11
"You can get ray skin form Mother of Peral ( www.knifehandles.com ), Co. Universal Agencies ( www.knifesupplies.com ), Bugei ( www.bugei.com ), or Adam Unlimited ( www.adamunlimited.com )"---Ivan Campos



some above from this thread:
www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=310238

www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385219

----------------------------

exotic handle materials
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=109060



<:)> THEY call me 'Dean' <>
dean-sp-sm.jpg

<:eek:> Caution: Not all ideas vented from this brain are entirely based on empirical data. JMO-M2C-fWiW-iIRC-YMMV-fYI-TiA-YW-GL
<:D> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
At the $1 stores ("Everything's a Dollar!") you can find:

New butcher's steels - not finest quality, but Hard & usable.

Battery powered 'drink mixers' that work great for blending
or aerating cupfuls of thin liquids: paints, oils, water,.....
And of course packages of plastic cups in which to do the mixing.
 
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