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RiverRat84

RiverRat84

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Sep 21, 2011
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Stonewashing, anodizing, scotchbriting, etc..

I can't take it anymore, I want to play too!

With so many options, I've settled on scotchbriting.

The knife I want to do, the Umnumzaan.

I've seen alot of instructional threads, anodizing and stonewashing among the most informative.

However, every scotchbrite Sebenza thread and video I've looked up just shows the end result.

I want to know how to do it so I can void my warranty too!:D

My goal is to just do the front side of the Umnumzaan while leaving the cross pattern it's original sandblasted look. I think it'd make for a cool contrast and make the knife all the more my own.

Any help is much appreciated :thumbup:
 
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Scotchbrighting the scale and not getti some of the pattern done will be tough. Scotch brute tends to get into places. You can place some fine sandpaper on a flat surface and rub your scale into it. That will leave the hatching blasted. Getting the edges after will leave you a sanded finish. Play with how to do it to get scratches right.

You could always just wet the scale with wd40, rub it with scotchbrite whichever direction you want the scratches going, clean it up good after you get the finish you want. Then apply tape and trim (leave the hatching untapped) and re blast (the tape will protect the parts you don't want blasted).

Couple different options.
 
I don't have an Umnum so I can't comment on how best to protect the cross hatching. Just know that when scotchbriting you don't need to push down very hard to get the blasted finish off. Lay the scotchbrite on some newspaper or paper (green dust falls through) and gently rub your handle scale on the scotchbrite. Perhaps if the scotchbrite won't go down into the crevices? When I do my lock bar side without the clip the clip hole does not get touched by the scotchbrite pad. As the previous poster suggested, maybe trying a sandpaper would be better because it won't get into the cross pattern at all... I wouldn't know what grit to use though. Probably something very fine like 600 grit? Check with kreole. He has worked on umnums.
 
Ask this guy;)

[video=youtube;JvsVhoCFy4A]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvsVhoCFy4A[/video]

Oh and be sure to post pics of it after it's done;)
 
You mean you want the inner part of the pattern to stay sandblasted and the rest satin/scotchbrite, correct? There's nothing to it if that's the case. Just put sandpaper or the scotchbrite pad on a hard backing and rub! You won't get inside the rays unless you purposely try.

On grit, I did my small Startac about two years ago but don't think I went above 600 (nice guess Maprik :D) and that put a high polish on it.
 
I thoroughly enjoy the feel of scotch brited scales over the blasted finish. Super smooth, doesn't scratch easily, fingerprints wipe right off. It'll look sweet on the Umnum with the dark hatching in between, too...
 
Just a little info that I hope might help, RR84. As you know, I have several of Lisa's Unique Graphic Sebenzas which have satin polished frames in addition to their art work. Lisa uses 600 grit paper on a flat surface to obtain that satin finish. Should work for your project as well.
Good luck. :thumbup:
 
BladeChick777 said:
Does scotch-briting the scales void the warranty?
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While I don't have an answer to that, (an email to CRK would obtain the facts), I really cannot see why it should. The Scotch Bright treatment, or even a light gentle
sanding is really only creating accelerated wear that would occur normally with use. Nothing mechanical is being altered, only the appearance of the frame. Just a thought.....:confused:
 
I dont think changing the handle finish voids anything because you can easily send it to the CRK spa and have it Reblasted and it will be exactly as new.
 
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You guys are great! I was indeed talking about keeping the grooves inside the cross hatching dark.

When the nerve gathers and time is plentiful, i'll give it a go. With before and after pics of course.

(I was kidding about the warranty by the way :D)
 
I'm pretty sure that I saw a photo of exactly what you want to achieve on another member's Umnumzaan. I saw the photo a little while ago when I did a search for the Umnumzaan here in this forum. I'd go look for it now, but I'm way too tired to start searching threads (I feel like I might have seen the photo in the 'watches CRK owners wear' thread).. I'll look for it later.

In any case, the scotchbrighted Umnumzaan looked really good. Better than any other scotchbrighted Sebenza I've seen before. If I were going to do it, I would definitely do it to the Umnum (If I had one). The contrasting darker untouched blasted deep cuts on the cross hatching look great against the scotchbrighted surface!
 
If you use sand paper on a good really flat surface like a bit of glass it will give an even looking satin finish on the flats and leave the texturing on the handle untouched with a nice crisp transition line. I would use 600 or 800 grit paper my self and one can brighten up the satin by hand with a green scotch pad to finish if so desired. I would probably also sand the edge of the scales to match the flats as that is a high wear area and ends up pocket/use polished in no time any way. :):thumbup:
 
burnside said:
I'm pretty sure that I saw a photo of exactly what you want to achieve on another member's Umnumzaan. I saw the photo a little while ago when I did a search for the Umnumzaan here in this forum. I'd go look for it now, but I'm way too tired to start searching threads (I feel like I might have seen the photo in the 'watches CRK owners wear' thread).. I'll look for it later.

In any case, the scotchbrighted Umnumzaan looked really good. Better than any other scotchbrighted Sebenza I've seen before. If I were going to do it, I would definitely do it to the Umnum (If I had one). The contrasting darker untouched blasted deep cuts on the cross hatching look great against the scotchbrighted surface!
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I believe it was kreole's your referring to. It's the one that stuck out to me long before I had a Zaan and kind of popped back into my head the very day I got it.

Haze said:
If you use sand paper on a good really flat surface like a bit of glass it will give an even looking satin finish on the flats and leave the texturing on the handle untouched with a nice crisp transition line. I would use 600 or 800 grit paper my self and one can brighten up the satin by hand with a green scotch pad to finish if so desired. I would probably also sand the edge of the scales to match the flats as that is a high wear area and ends up pocket/use polished in no time any way. :):thumbup:
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Thanks for the tips Haze. I believe i'll give this method a go. I'm only doing one scale so that should cut the effort down a bit and give it a few points of contrast. If I don't like it, i'll just do the back scale too:thumbup:
 
I emailed them about refinishing the scales and it does, in fact, void the warranty. I specifically asked about bead blasting them at a lower pressure (for a more satin finish) and specifically noted protecting the lock face and was told that any refinishing voids their warranty. Just FYI.
 
SVTFreak said:
I emailed them about refinishing the scales and it does, in fact, void the warranty. I specifically asked about bead blasting them at a lower pressure (for a more satin finish) and specifically noted protecting the lock face and was told that any refinishing voids their warranty. Just FYI.
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Well that's discouraging.
 
SVTFreak said:
I emailed them about refinishing the scales and it does, in fact, void the warranty. I specifically asked about bead blasting them at a lower pressure (for a more satin finish) and specifically noted protecting the lock face and was told that any refinishing voids their warranty. Just FYI.
Click to expand...

An interesting bit of information, and good to keep in mind. Thanks for checking. Now we all know for sure.
 
I'll risk it. I'm just doing the front scale anyway.

If I somehow jack it up i'll be more than happy to foot the bill:thumbup:
 
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Thanks guys!!:thumbup:
 
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