To Hell with soldering a handguard!

G

godogs57

Joined
Apr 16, 2004
Messages
795
To absolute hell with it...sorry for my rant, but I just cannot do it. I have read every article on it, purchased every brand of solder and flux that was guaranteed to work from knife suppliers, did it exactly like the tutorials tutor me to do, and the dang stuff just won't work. I spent an hour and a half trying to coax solder down between the guard and the tang and just messed up a good knife is all I accomplished.

About once per year I get stupid and try it again and it never works. Back to the drawing board.

Sorry for the rant, but I feel better now.

Everyone have a great weekend,

Hank
 
Coax the solder ?? The solder flows between the guard and tang due to capillary action.However to do this the gap must be .003" so careful fitting is necessary !!
 
Steve Johnson has the best way I've seen of doing it. He uses low-temp solder and a heat gun. It's in his subhilt fighter video, which is worth every penny of the cost.
 
Harley uses (that gray epoxy that comes in 2 tubes that I can't think of the name right now).
Lynn
Now a Great Grand Dad!
 
Practice, practice, practice.

AcridSaint is right about the Steve Johnson video, worth every penny.

Take Care
Charles
 
I like press fitting guards. But then I use my mill to slot them so it is easier than with files. I just did my first seppa. Did it all using a dremel to slot then filed to fit. Turned out pretty nice if I do say so myself. Makes fitting the guard a piece of cake...
 
i use my buddys mill or surface grinder to cut a .020 slot to form a shoulder for the guard to butt up against. then i hand file the guard to fit snug. epoxy will hold the guard in place along with the handle material. i have knives that were done this way maybe 13-14 years ago and they are still holding up great. i have picks of how i do this if anyone wishes to see.
 
I use Stay Brite brand when I solder them, if the fit aint prefect I use JB weld (sh#t happens, If I can see light in the gap it probably will not flow, if it's a custom job I'll redo it, if it's something that just needs to be finished so I don't have to look at it anymore, I'll JB it, either way it's sealed

-Page
 
Clean The Well Fitted Joint Very Good.
Bring The Heat Up Slow, Brush Joint With Flux, Rub Tip Of Solder In Joint As You Are Heating It, When The Solder Melts, *you Brush The Solder Around The Joint With Brush That Is Wet With Flux* The Solder Simply Flows Into The Joint.
Let Cool, Clean Joint With Graver & Buff.
It Is Very Simple.
 
I don't do very many with guards, but I gave up on soldering a long time ago. I fit them tight enough that I have to drive them on with a slotted hardwood driver-onner-thingy. A drop of super glue from the back side makes sure it's a waterproof joint. There's just no way it's coming off, so solder really won't add anything to it.
 
I can actually solder pretty well but the time it takes to clean off the excess and resand the front of the guard and blade its just not worth it. I like to drive them on and off and use JB Weld. Steve Johnson is the best Ive ever seen but he buffs the guard afterward. I dont use a buffer.
 
Same here. The JB weld wet works as a lube and dry as a sealant. I bought some low temp solder three yrs ago and have used it for everything but knives so far.
 
B Finnigan said:
Same here. The JB weld wet works as a lube and dry as a sealant. I bought some low temp solder three yrs ago and have used it for everything but knives so far.
Click to expand...
I use JB Weld. Another trick that I had heard about before, but had explained to me in detail at Batsons it the idea of filing a tiny "shelf" all the way around a hidden tang at the ricasso/guard junction so the tang and the slot in the guard will actually be a few thousandths smaller than the ricasso itself. I'm going to try that.
 
Hmm, I could start a business soldering bolsters etc. for you guys. Or, I could make a video showing stainless on stainless soldering with easy flow sterling solder. Stainless requires more prep and cleanup than most and would make a good demo.

Mete is right, capillary action works well when you have enough heat and a clean well fluxed joint.
Like anything, proper instruction, hands on training and some practice, any of you can go pro on the bolster soldering and , make it look easy.
 
Soldering guards is an art. If you need to solder guards, you have to do them all the time to keep in practice. I do not like doing them, but I use a heat gun and do ten at a time.
BB
 
Charles Vestal said:
Practice, practice, practice.

AcridSaint is right about the Steve Johnson video, worth every penny.

Take Care
Charles
Click to expand...

Ditto on the practice. I've used the SRJ heatgun trick but prefer my oxy/actylene torch. I still plan on getting a 500 ish amp solder gun similar to what Loveless uses. He shows one that has a tip with a slot milled in it.

RSSMITH said:
Clean The Well Fitted Joint Very Good.
Bring The Heat Up Slow, Brush Joint With Flux, Rub Tip Of Solder In Joint As You Are Heating It, When The Solder Melts, *you Brush The Solder Around The Joint With Brush That Is Wet With Flux* The Solder Simply Flows Into The Joint.
Let Cool, Clean Joint With Graver & Buff.
It Is Very Simple.
Click to expand...

And yes, it is that simple :thumbup: perfect instruction :thumbup:


The only time I've had an "issue" was with one of the knives I'm working on right now. A 1095 blade w/hamon and etched,nitreblued WI guard. Oh ............ its soldered on now :rolleyes: but the nitreblued guard turned into an oxpho-blued guard :grumpy:

Don't give up you guys who are having a tough time with it. IMHO, this is an important skill to master when it comes to being a knifemaker, even if it isn't the technique used on every knife.

Hi Bobby ;)
 
2 days before the job, slaughter a young chicken. Collect blood. Before the job,
sprinkle it on your face. The shop should be candle-lit. Face east. The rest is ez :)


Seriously, you gotta get nice flux and solder, clear stuff (blade/guard) real well,
be careful with the flame - don't direct it at the joint but at the tang and go slow.
Cut few pieces of solder and lay it around the gap. When it balls up, back off with the
the torch. You can use sharpened wire to spread the solder around. Non stainless.

You don't want any oxides/soot layer to form as it will contaminate the surfaces and then the solder won't flow no matter what.

Any good flux will be rather acidic and will need to be neutralized afterward. Good way
to go about it is to boil the joint in water with plenty of baking soda added to it. Otherwise, the residual flux _will, sooner or later, eat it's way to the surface.
 
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