To Hell with soldering a handguard!

If you ever visit Rochester, ny, stop in and I will show you a really easy way to solder guards in place. Easier than glue etc.

Dan Farr
 
i did one recently with sta brite silver solder, and i used an acetylene torch set with a rich flame (cooler). af first it didn't seem to want to flow, but when the joint got just a little hotter, all of a sudden, it started to flow just like lead solder. turned out pretty good for a first try...
 
I solder most of my guards. I was lucky and had 1 on 1 instruction from Mark Hazen. He made it look so easy,I also use a heat gun. I made a rough blade and guard and "practice practice practice".I would solder it take it apart by heating and solder it again.
 
Soldering is about the only thing I can do right, I guess years of soldering copper pipe and brass at work paid off. Just make sure the pieces are clean and dry, use flux and heat the tang and the solder will be drawn to the heat but I never put the flame directly on the solder. For me, lead solder is easier to work with than tin or silver. Practice, like anything else will make it easier.
 
What flux do I need for Staybrite soldering D2 to stuff like brass, mild steel, WI and say 304 stainless. I scored a pile of D2. I have got my high carbon and fittings down fairly well now.
 
CL I appreciate your kind offer of assistance. I did, indeed, try the war chant before I soldered.....I ended up doing another war chant afterwards. I then did my "JB Weld" war chant after cleaning up the blade and handguard and things went better. Will post a pic after all the chanting is done.

Thanks so much for all the suggestions! They are appreciated.

Hank
 
IB
The staybrite rep told us to use staybrite 8 and liquid flux for stainless to brass joints. I've used it on stainless to stainless and mild steel to brass with good results.
 
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