To peen or not to peen: That is my question.

supratentorial

supratentorial

Joined
Dec 19, 2006
Messages
8,210
I purchased a whittler made by a well known (and well loved) knife manufacturer and the spring pin is spun on one side but not the other. I can understand how they might have missed it. But it does need to be fixed. I know that they would repair or replace the knife... but I wonder if an unspun spring pin is return issue or something that I should take care of with just a few taps from a ball pein hammer. Any tips on peening a pin?

To peen, or not to peen: that is my question:
Whether 'tis nobler to suffer
Return shipping costs,
Or to take hammer against an unspun spring pin.
:rolleyes:
 
Here's a photo...

unspun-pin_zps4ba80d98.jpg
 
I dont know if I have the guts to do that-in my way of thinking if I damaged the pin-with it being the spring pin and all...could I jeopardise the life of the knife?...but that just honestly shows you how little I know!
Could you over-tighten it maybe by smacking it too hard?
 
Gotta say it looks spun to me. Or like it was a pin head type. Is it totally flat on top, or rounded?

Looks about like my Bucks from that angle.
 
If it were mine I'd peen the pin, based on previous experience and suitable hammer. I had similar problem with stag scales folder and I fixed it. But please bare in mind that this only my personal opinion and my way of doing things, as the scales might "suffer" from this action.
Hope I helped in some way.
Mike
 
Awhile ago I would have yelled "hit that thing!" at you.
But after doing the same to a very nice 1996 Boker stag tragger with loose scales (actually I didn't hit it, I squeezed it gently in a flat faced vise) and cracked the scales,
now I would advise a return trip to the manufacturer. :(
 
Ever hear of Tank? He customizes knives (mostly autos) and sells pin spinner kits on one of the less-mainstream auction sites. I'll dig up a link for you if you like.
If you have or can get access to a drill press, spinning the pin might be preferable to peening it, since it's in the middle of a handle cover.
 
Jake - Dremel makes a grinding bit that has a small cup in the end of it for things just like this situation. I have a few of them in different sizes. You only use the cup for grinding (not the side of the bit) and it is a fine/medium grit bit. It will take that spring pin down just fine. I got a GEC Powderhorn with the same problem. I spun the bit around the pin and it lowered the pin nicely.

You don't have to have a dremel tool/motor to use it. A regual drill will do. The brass pin may be soft enough that you can spin/twirl it with your fingers.

Remember! Whatever you decide, "slow and easy" does it. It doesn't take much pin (material) removal to get it down so it's just right.
 
I'm so far from a pro with this stuff. My question to you Jake would be does it actually need to be peened. How is that knife made?

If the pin is meant to be peened/spun into a tapered hole in the cover and it is not, then yes I would. If it already has been and there is no gap in the tapered hole, the covers are tight and the pin is not loose, maybe they just didn't sand the pin down to the same level as the other side.

Just some thoughts to ponder.

Kevin
 
Kadmos, My photo isn't the best but the surface is flat on the side that wasn't spun. It's very noticeable in the hand and would not be comfortable to use. Normally the spun pins do stick out a little but not as much and they are domed so the surface is smooth. Duncan, That is one of my concerns. I don't want to mess up the mechanics of the knife... or break something. Mike and Corey, I appreciate the suggestions. I'm going to give it some thought before I decide. puukkoman, can you PM me the link? I'm not familiar with Tank.
 
Kevin, Good points. Unlike most traditional knives, the handles are molded onto the liners. The pins's primary function is to hold the spring. I thought spinning or peening the pin holds it in place but I've never made a knife and I'm not sure... maybe it just gives a smooth finished surface. I don't see any gaps or tapered area around the pin.
 
Jake, on a knife like I am used to from GEC for example, the main spring pin will hold the covers, liners and springs tight together. It looks like you have a buck, but with all the knives you have I wasn't sure. My main things would be finding out the true function of that center pin on that particular knife. The springs and liners look tight together and flush as can be to me. You can't push the pin out to the end that appears spun? Can you torque the frame slightly and make a gap in the liners/springs show up?
 
Jake, You should fix it... Just take a piece of leather (old belt) lay the knife on that piece, Take another piece (cut from same old belt)..lol
and lay it on the pin, Take a ball peen hammer and hit it lightly until it goes in... It's worked for me, I can say that.

Jason
 
bakerg2g said:
Jake, You should fix it... Just take a piece of leather (old belt) lay the knife on that piece, Take another piece (cut from same old belt)..lol
and lay it on the pin, Take a ball peen hammer and hit it lightly until it goes in... It's worked for me, I can say that.

Jason
Click to expand...

The only thing that I can see to contradict that is if it actually has been properly spun. If it has and Jake starts tapping it with a hammer he may end up just bending the pin and doing harm to a perfectly fine knife. You can see from 300bucks photo that there is room in the liner for the pin to distort (bend). If the pin is already holding the liners and springs tight then there is no reason to peen further. If the pin is mushroomed as far as it can into the covers, again, no reason IMHO. Anyhow, thats all from me. Its all I have to offer. Hope you figure it out Jake.

Again, not an expert, just thinking it out.
 
Ed, I missed your post the first time around. Can you give me a part number or PM a link?

Kevin, The thing's a rock and I don't think I can torque it... if I peen it, it might move but I won't know until it's too late. :eek:

Thank you for the good wishes. :)
 
Those photos make it very clear. Do you have multiple copies of the knife or I wonder if any Buck experts could chime in. Could one side be pre-tapered, slid into the hole and spun on the opposite side only?

Oh, your welcome, just trying to help you out my friend.

Kevin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top