To Super Steel, or Not to Super Steel, That is the Question

R

rummels

Joined
Mar 15, 2013
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Like many other forum members, I need some help regarding steel choices.

I would like to buy a folding knife that would be used mostly when hiking in remote areas or when backpacking, but that could sometimes be used as a carry knife. Note that I don’t see myself batoning wood, or cutting open cans or doing anything else that would be inappropriate for a folding knife with a 3.5 – 4” blade.

I know I want a knife that has the ability to resist corrosion, because I know this knife is going to get wet, and possibly stay wet for a day or two at a time. And I would like a knife with high edge retention (who wouldn’t like a knife that has to be sharpened infrequently).

So what steel choice should I make? I want knife that is going to stay sharp, but would I even notice a S35V or S30V knife getting dull after a couple of week long backpacking trips during which wood is carved, food is prepared, and cord, rubber and canvas may need to be cut? Do I need M390, or S90V or a similar “high edge retention” steel for these types of uses? Note that cost is not a consideration.
Thanks!
Rummels
 
Does it matter very much to you that your knife stays very sharp? Even a relatively full edge will take care of most tasks with a bit of added effort.
 
It seems like admitting you don't yearn to sharpen your knife as often as possible, regardless of the circumstances, is the same as admitting you've failed as a knife enthusiast. I don't hold that POV... I'm just lazy I guess :D. M390, CTS-204P, CPM 20CV and CPM S90V are all good choices for what you described. CPM S110V might be the one to go with; it's a stainless, but I'm not sure it's as good as a steel like M390 in the corrosion resistance department. I'm not into bushcraft and whatnot like many here are, but I think something like a Bark River Adventurer II in 20CV might work well, it has a blade in that 3-4" range.
 
asdf12345 said:
Does it matter very much to you that your knife stays very sharp? Even a relatively full edge will take care of most tasks with a bit of added effort.
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That generally makes using the knife more laborious, has the potential to damage the edge, and is also unsafe in general though. It is much safer to keep your knife sharp, for both your benefit as well as the benefit of the knife itself.

I would say that M390 is fine for what you are talking about, and you will probably notice S30V or S35VN get dull after what you are describing, though it depends on how much of those tasks you actually plan on doing of course. I would still take along a strop or something small to touch up your edge since you never know what might need to be done, but M390 should be able to hold an edge for a week at least doing those tasks without losing the edge too much to effect cutting.

S90V is a little harder to take care of for the edge (really just because the wear resistance is higher), but if you finish it to a slightly coarse edge with a little tooth to it, the steel will hold that edge for a very long time, and will work fantastically for most of the tasks you have described with it.
 
I think most steels would be fine for edge retention. Maybe bring a strop for the upkeep over the two week period.
 
Sikael said:
It seems like admitting you don't yearn to sharpen your knife as often as possible, regardless of the circumstances, is the same as admitting you've failed as a knife enthusiast. I don't hold that POV... I'm just lazy I guess :D. M390, CTS-204P, CPM 20CV and CPM S90V are all good choices for what you described. CPM S110V might be the one to go with; it's a stainless, but I'm not sure it's as good as a steel like M390 in the corrosion resistance department. I'm not into bushcraft and whatnot like many here are, but I think something like a Bark River Adventurer II in 20CV might work well, it has a blade in that 3-4" range.
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S110V will hold an edge a little longer than M390 in some cases and it is about equal when it comes to corrosion resistance in general, but it is a little more prone to chipping and small damage to the edge when it comes to some of the tasks that the OP described (at least form my experience), so I don't know if it would be an ideal steel for these tasks.

You're definitely right about the Adventurer II in 20CV though. I couldn't remember the name so I didn't recommend it, but that was exactly what I thought of for a good knife for these tasks :D
 
dano said:
Bring a sharpener?
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^^^ This.

Charr said:
S90V is a little harder to take care of for the edge (really just because the wear resistance is higher), but if you finish it to a slightly coarse edge with a little tooth to it, the steel will hold that edge for a very long time, and will work fantastically for most of the tasks you have described with it.
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I brought my S90V CF millie on my last camping trip; it has a reprofiled convex edge with coarse finish and it performed very well. :thumbup:
 
Czechmate said:
I brought my S90V CF millie on my last camping trip; it has a reprofiled convex edge with coarse finish and it performed very well. :thumbup:
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That's how to do it if you want to use S90V for sure!
You will be hard-pressed to find a better edge in terms of perfromance than a good and still lean convexed, course edge!
 
Charr said:
That's how to do it if you want to use S90V for sure!
You will be hard-pressed to find a better edge in terms of perfromance than a good and still lean convexed, course edge!
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Yeah, it's pretty awesome... ;) It also had the scales hand sanded and polished so it is super comfy to use while still being grippy. :thumbup:

Here is a pic of it:

15876783895_8e2a52f93b_c.jpg
 
In all honesty. No you do not need a super steel. 12C27 in a Victorinox Multitool has seen the most work on all my knives over the years and multiple work trips all over remote sub-sahara Africa.

Remote farmers use a make shift knife from leaf spring of a vehicle.

Key thing all steels have in common. They go dull. So knowing how to sharpen is important. Far more IMO than steel choice.

Now if you want another steel that is a whole different story. Wants and necessity are different.
 
The OP wants to know if they should get a super steel, or just go with the more common working mans S30V or S35V.

Interesting.

I would say neither classes is a good choice. You need a steel that will hold up to tasks that will chip them lower end steels you listed. Get a good strong AUS8. They will not require you to pack sharpening tools, just strop every couple of days on some sand paper that packs light and easy and the stronger chip resistant AUS8 will be greatly appreciated.
 
Boris74 said:
The OP wants to know if they should get a super steel, or just go with the more common working mans S30V or S35V.

Interesting.

I would say neither classes is a good choice. You need a steel that will hold up to tasks that will chip them lower end steels you listed. Get a good strong AUS8. They will not require you to pack sharpening tools, just strop every couple of days on some sand paper that packs light and easy and the stronger chip resistant AUS8 will be greatly appreciated.
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At this point, I have to assume you're trolling.
 
I really like focusblade and Boris74's answers. If you're going out for two weeks where you'll need to be using a knife, you need to take a field sharpening tool and have the skill to use it. In that kind of setting, a steel like 154CM, AUS 8, or even Buck's 420HC will work fine and be relatively easy to resharpen. Those steels are also pretty corrosion resistant and relatively tough. Toughness ought to be highly considered if you're out for two weeks and this is your only or your primary knife. Emerson, Spyderco, Benchmade, Joe Pardue's Utilitac, and a couple of Bucks all fall within guidelines of what you're looking for.

I have some folders and fixed blades in "super steels" like M390 and CPM-M4, but my choices for rougher use away from home are Benchmade and Emerson's 154CM, Bark River's CPM-3V, or Spyderco & ZT's Elmax.
 
Quiet said:
At this point, I have to assume you're trolling.
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Nope. They asked should they go with steel X, or go for steel Y. They said steel Y is super steel and wanted to know if steel X will be fine or not.

I stand by my reccomendation of going with a good AUS8. On the trail it holds an edge for a couple days of normal use and sharpens easy. I have a S35N blade and after a couple hours of whittling on wood I can run it across my finger nail and feel it chipping out. AUS8 won't do that in a couple hours.

Just being honest with the OP. If that's seen as trolling so be it.
 
If cost is no issue, go over and get a Guardian4 from Bradford Knives. Fine piece of supersteel.

That being said, I've usually went the 1095 or AUS-8 route. But I may be a convert after the Bradford.
 
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