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Wait... What?!?!
He suggests the Espada for "dangerous areas" like a school kitchen??? I seriously can't believe I just saw that!
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To Super Steel, or Not to Super Steel, That is the Question
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Wait... What?!?!
He suggests the Espada for "dangerous areas" like a school kitchen??? I seriously can't believe I just saw that!
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- Sep 17, 2007
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- 21,367
Wait... What?!?!
He suggests the Espada for "dangerous areas" like a school kitchen??? I seriously can't believe I just saw that!
That was...interesting for sure.
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- Feb 24, 2011
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That's not surprising; the XL espada is hollow ground and very thin; it's not intended for bush/chopping chores. Besides, if I remember correctly Stabman, you had a g10 espada that got used for bushcraft etc so...
My rajah II has seen a ton of hard use in the woods with no issues but it's flat ground and very stout in comparison to the XL espada.
Anyway, on topic; good ole 1084 has served me well as a "camp" knife (pic from it's maiden voyage in the woods) it's ground quite thin and cuts great. No issues with durability either.
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That's not surprising; the XL espada is hollow ground and very thin; it's not intended for bush/chopping chores. Besides, if I remember correctly Stabman, you had a g10 espada that got used for bushcraft etc so...
Yep, edge warped something fierce; had to pound it back into place with a small brass hammer.
I suggested that Cold Steel make a version with a different grind--flat or convex--that would be better suited to such use.
They said it wasn't what it was designed for...apparently it's supposed to only be a weapon.
Which isn't all that useful to me; perhaps I just need to make more enemies?
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This is how I approach it. All steel types get a touch up when they get somewhat dull. I find it easier than bringing an edge all the way back from fully dull.
That said, if you're a bushcrafter you want the sharpening tools no matter which steel you choose. It will go dull if you sit down and use your knife for a dedicated project. If you're a backpacker than it also doesn't matter because you won't use the knife enough in a two week period for it to make any difference. So we're shooting for something in the middle? I've never used it but my guess is that M4 would be what you want. Great reviews on it's edge holding.
Charr
Platinum Member
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Issue with both of these is that the OP specifically mentioned that corrosion resistance was a concern for him. Neither of those steels is fantastic in the regard, as they are both tool steels without stainless properties.
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- Feb 5, 2013
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M4 gets coated usually. 810 Contego has cerakote covering most of the blade. It rides in my damp salty sweaty pocket day after day. My grip that I run with gets rust on the stainless clip and needs frequent protection/cleaning. The exposed m4 at the tang and edge have yet to rust. I shoot a little tri-flow at it every week, that's it. So, m4 isn't stainless but with minimal care it's not going to fail you on a two week trip. Any rust or staining should be superficial and easily removed if you don't love that used look.
I would not take any high carbide steel due to chipping when little bits of sand or rock get into whatever you're cutting. Take a steel that rolls before chipping, it will be much easier to strop or sharpen.
I would not take any high carbide steel due to chipping when little bits of sand or rock get into whatever you're cutting. Take a steel that rolls before chipping, it will be much easier to strop or sharpen.
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- Dec 8, 2014
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- 457
I love to backpack and I'm a knife nut. I take a lot of different knives into the wilderness and I do it about once every two weeks. I'm always looking for that perfect combination of factors that makes one folding knife my favorite in the woods. My experience has not led me to the perfect backpacking folder, but rather has taught me there will never be one that is best. I've learned that what really matters is that it is simply tough enough to take more abuse than you should give it (just in case), and it should be sharpened before you leave. If the type of steel combined with the bevel angle won't stay sharp for your entire trip, bring a strop or a touch up stone.
To answer your metal questions specifically...I have found M4 to be my favorite, but M390, CTS-204P, S90V and S110V are all fantastic for edge holding, and superior to S30V and S35VN. That said if S30V is getting dull too quickly, try a bevel angle of 30 degrees or slightly more to keep your edge from rolling over.
If I had to suggest just one knife with a 3.5-4" blade, great steel, corrosion resistant everything, and tough enough to count on in an unexpected emergency (I would rather suggest 6 and have you choose one) it would probably be this one....
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CTS-204P, Ti frame, CF Scale. Tough, sharp, no corrosion....also easy to open and close with gloves on.
To answer your metal questions specifically...I have found M4 to be my favorite, but M390, CTS-204P, S90V and S110V are all fantastic for edge holding, and superior to S30V and S35VN. That said if S30V is getting dull too quickly, try a bevel angle of 30 degrees or slightly more to keep your edge from rolling over.
If I had to suggest just one knife with a 3.5-4" blade, great steel, corrosion resistant everything, and tough enough to count on in an unexpected emergency (I would rather suggest 6 and have you choose one) it would probably be this one....
CTS-204P, Ti frame, CF Scale. Tough, sharp, no corrosion....also easy to open and close with gloves on.
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- Oct 11, 2013
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- 23,038
I love to backpack and I'm a knife nut. I take a lot of different knives into the wilderness and I do it about once every two weeks. I'm always looking for that perfect combination of factors that makes one folding knife my favorite in the woods. My experience has not led me to the perfect backpacking folder, but rather has taught me there will never be one that is best. I've learned that what really matters is that it is simply tough enough to take more abuse than you should give it (just in case), and it should be sharpened before you leave. If the type of steel combined with the bevel angle won't stay sharp for your entire trip, bring a strop or a touch up stone.
To answer your metal questions specifically...I have found M4 to be my favorite, but M390, CTS-204P, S90V and S110V are all fantastic for edge holding, and superior to S30V and S35VN. That said if S30V is getting dull too quickly, try a bevel angle of 30 degrees or slightly more to keep your edge from rolling over.
If I had to suggest just one knife with a 3.5-4" blade, great steel, corrosion resistant everything, and tough enough to count on in an unexpected emergency (I would rather suggest 6 and have you choose one) it would probably be this one....
[/url][/IMG]
[/url][/IMG]
CTS-204P, Ti frame, CF Scale. Tough, sharp, no corrosion....also easy to open and close with gloves on.
Excellent post, and as someone who has this knife and has put it through some hard work, I agree with your assessment.
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- Aug 30, 2014
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I'll agree with GearGuy on that as well. The ZT 0562CF is excellent, and the CTS-204P is identical to M390.
But I'll stick with the Bark River 'Adventurer II', which uses the other steel identical to M390 and CTS-204P -- CPM 20CV. The 'Adventurer I' is just a bit smaller.
It fits all his criteria: CPM 20CV steel, 3.75" fixed blade, and it's beautiful and handy in any environment. Note: At 62-63 HRC, M390/20CV will keep a razor edge after other guys have resharpened their carbon steel 2-3X over.
Specs:
Overall Length: 7.875"
Blade Length: 3.75"
Cutting Edge: 3.125"
Blade Thickness: .135"
Blade Steel: CPM20CV @ 62-63 HRC
Weight: 3.8oz
Sheath: Neck / Belt Carry sheath included; Kydex is optional
Price: $179.96
Price: $299.95 (for this one, the most expensive, I believe -- Desert Ironwood Burl, with black liners and mosaic pins. You've gotta love burl, and not just Ironwood burl)
But I'll stick with the Bark River 'Adventurer II', which uses the other steel identical to M390 and CTS-204P -- CPM 20CV. The 'Adventurer I' is just a bit smaller.
It fits all his criteria: CPM 20CV steel, 3.75" fixed blade, and it's beautiful and handy in any environment. Note: At 62-63 HRC, M390/20CV will keep a razor edge after other guys have resharpened their carbon steel 2-3X over.
Specs:
Overall Length: 7.875"
Blade Length: 3.75"
Cutting Edge: 3.125"
Blade Thickness: .135"
Blade Steel: CPM20CV @ 62-63 HRC
Weight: 3.8oz
Sheath: Neck / Belt Carry sheath included; Kydex is optional
Price: $179.96
Price: $299.95 (for this one, the most expensive, I believe -- Desert Ironwood Burl, with black liners and mosaic pins. You've gotta love burl, and not just Ironwood burl)
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