Tomb of the Lost Knife!

If you want to skip the steel wool, use a common pencil on the rust: the graphite removes it without hurting the finish. It works great on knifes where you are trying to leave the original patina.
 
Rick said:
Great find, Charlie, and a fine write-up too. I'm really looking forward to seeing that beauty rejuvenated after the mineral oil spa and a few rubdowns.

The ancient insect remains amid the old remnant of a spider's lair found inside lend the old girl a bit of gravitas: the tribulations of the food chain; nay! The very cycle of life and death was enacted untold years past within the dark recess of that handle! :eek: :D
Click to expand...

Damm Rick, that sounds like the start of a great story!:thumbup:
 
Yeah, okay, I just may do a little short one on this. The lost Kutter. Yeah, thats the ticket!

Soons my hand gets to where I can type decent with it, I'll get one out.
 
WN,

I am a big pusher of mineral oil soaking...I also have had good luck using one of the
"rust erasers" you can get from various sources. I believe there are two grits but few offer both....I like fine but the rougher one is only wrong if you have mirror polish. It will polish off the patina of carbon blade while getting the rust.

Anyone reading this should have the GO SLOW motto etched in brain whatever you do.
300Bucks
 
300Bucks said:
WN,


Anyone reading this should have the GO SLOW motto etched in brain whatever you do.
300Bucks
Click to expand...

I agree 100% with that rule.This threads starting to become a learning experience.
Soak in mineral oil first. How long does anyone think?
 
Last edited:
Don't worry guys, I doubt Charlie is going to do anything drastic to the knife. He has a collection anyone would envy and he is a firm believer in preserving these treasures for future generations.
 
Nav,

I have soaked some a long time just to see if it would help, it didn't but it was hopeless at the start. Some say a couple of hours, I go a couple of days. I was given an old bone Catt. that was eat up with rust. I forgot it was in the oil and left it 3 weeks. Outside perked up but the blades were unsavable when they finally opened. Not sure I would soak anything but bone, stag or delrin very long. 300bucks
 
300Bucks said:
Nav,

I have soaked some a long time just to see if it would help, it didn't but it was hopeless at the start. Some say a couple of hours, I go a couple of days. I was given an old bone Catt. that was eat up with rust. I forgot it was in the oil and left it 3 weeks. Outside perked up but the blades were unsavable when they finally opened. Not sure I would soak anything but bone, stag or delrin very long. 300bucks
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info. we have a little beaker at work with mineral oil in it. We call it the parts cleaner. I take my knife out once in a while and half open the blades and soak for about 10 minutes and shoot them with air to clean them out.
 
Ok guys, fess up. How many of us go right to Ebay and flex our search muscles after one of Charlie's snipes? I DO I DO!!!! :D Charlie is one of my heros.
 
I'm fessin up. Charlies collection just blows my mind, great knives, great taste, great guy.

Best regards

Robin
 
I'm also fessin' up. Don't have a clue who Charlie is, but he has a nice knife & takes great pictures! :thumbup:
 
I've tried wooden toothpicks to get at the rust in the innards, with only so-so luck, and I'm curious what Charlie's gonna use to get at it.

Mike
 
My ears were burning, so I thought I'd better get over here!!
I am working slowly on that knife. I have some stainless dental picks, used for scaling stuff off of teeth, and they do a good job of taking off rust scale without scratching the spring and blade steel!
They are obviously softer than the blade steel. I was delighted to find this out, and I'll post some pictures of them soon, the picks and the knife!
Now you guys have been talking about me, so I gotta defend myself!! I do NOT take good pictures!!:eek: My wife and kids always grab the camera before I can shoot their nostrils, or knees or something!!:rolleyes:
But I do take good SCANS!! All you need is a high resolution scanner with a good depth of field!:thumbup:
Thanks for the compliments on the quality of the knives I post; I've paid my dues for them over the years, mostly learning what NOT to buy!!
And for you guys calling me a nice guy, I am actually kind of a JERK!! :p
Well, a NERD anyway!! (Knife-nerd that is!):o
And Kerry, my Father, a Multi-champion shooter before he passed away, taught me my sniping skills; but I'm sorry if it has cost you a lot of money on the 'Bay! Be careful who you pick for a Hero! (I'd personally pick Tony Bose, or someone like that, who can at least do something useful!!):D:D
See ya soon, and Happy New Year to ALL!!!:)
 
malextwo said:
I've tried wooden toothpicks to get at the rust in the innards, with only so-so luck, and I'm curious what Charlie's gonna use to get at it.

Mike
Click to expand...

Hi Mike
I use those bamboo meat screwers and shape them into chisels for the back springs inside of the blade slots. If it a longer knife like a trapper you can make it very fine and get under the tang to clean out lint and grunge. They are very strong so you don't break them off under quite a bit of pressure. I use mineral oil to loosen the grunge and then the scewers.

Regards

Robin
 
Would Marvel's Mystery Oil work for something like this or is it too harsh? Can't see the pictures yet as I'm at work but did subscribe to the thread in case I ever get a chance to get on-line from home.

Someone told my father to use it on an old black powder revolver he found in a creek bed but there are no grips or anything to worry about ruining. I doubt it could ever be returned to fireable condition though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top