Tools you own... But don't know how to use

ScottRoush said:
Ah yes.. the old 2x42. I still have mine and I still use it.

Thanks for the comments Javand. I bought my disk grinder because I'm trying to get more efficient at getting true surfaces... flat surfaces. Which I realize that I could be doing with my mill whenever I get to acquiring the proper tooling. I also want to use it to get flat, true bevels on long blades like swords.. and perhaps some swooping plunges on knives. I was also thinking it would make nicer machine finishes for a smooth transition to hand rubbing.

Jim... Thanks a lot. That is what I was envisioning when I bought this. Do you use it to reshape your plunge after grinding on the belt??? Are you using sheet paper or buying pre-cut ceramics? By the way... does anybody know if it's worth buying the ceramics? Or go the route of bulk, cheap, change often?
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I use regular paper and cut to fit disc's. I actually cut my paper oversize by about 1/8". This overhang will clean up the plunge cuts very nicely. Really nice haveing extra discs so I dont have to tear off paper that is not fully used up. Many times I have went up a grit and then find out I didnt get all the scratches out from previous grit. Then I would have to peel off the new paper to put another lower grit. With the magnetic palte system I can just switch plates without wasteing paper. It saves a lot of time and money on sand paper.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim... And yeah... I figured out that the other day on the plunge. Nice.

You crack me up Ray. Actually.. It didn't come with instructions. But I at least figured out how to make it go. :-)
 
Scott- I really don't know how to explain it in words... at least not in a way that would be worth the time to read it. It's one of those things that's pretty easy to show in person though.

I forgot you asked about paper. I have the ceramic discs, but unless you're actually doing heavy grinding on the 9" disc, I think they're overkill. For general clean-up, to speed up hand sanding, I use the Rhynowet paper.

That magnetic disc system looks pretty darn slick, but after I started using 3M Feathering disc adhesive, I have zero problems taking discs off. I can peel off a disc, set it aside, and then put another sheet on. If for some reason I need to put the previous paper back on.... just peel and stick. :)

I actually "kill" the edge of my 9" discs with a piece of ceramic. With the sharp plunges I do, it's really easy to overshoot the spine if your paper is bigger than the disc.

BTW- in my experience, you can get things pretty flat with a belt. But the belt is moving past a fixed platen, and that invites error that you won't find with a disc. Neither one is perfect, but if I want something flat and I can't surface grind it, I use the disc. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
javand- I think if you spent 30 minutes in a shop with a guy who uses a 9" disc a lot, you'd be shocked at what that 9" disc can do. :)

Scott- I usually feel like I don't really know how to use most of the tools I own. :foot:
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Nick: I don't doubt it. I don't dispute that it might be the best tool for many tasks if you know how to use it well. I admit I'm not that adept with mine. Just saying that I don't personally know of any grinding task that can only be done on the disc, that can't also be done on the 2x72. Admittedly I use the surface grinder way more than the disc, but I am finding more and more uses for it.
 
javand- I didn't mean to disagree with you. If I had to choose between a disc and a 2X72, I'd take the belt grinder every time... especially if you're talking about a versatile grinder like the KMG, TW-90, or Bader III.

But if I get to have BOTH, then that's a REALLY sweet combination. :)
 
I'm with Nick on this, no matter how much you tighten that belt on any 2x72 (I have 3 belt grinders) or
what kind of rest- you still will not get as absolute a clean cut as the disc. Yeah if it was one machine it
would be my Bader. On the disc the abrasive doesn't have to be loose enough to travel over it.
Ken.
 
Yeah, I've definitely noticed the difference in cut myself. I've also noticed that it seems easier to skip grit ranges on the disc without detriment. I keep 120 or 220 paper on my disc and find myself going to it for a lot of tool making clean up, squaring ends and such, and it feels more productive time wise than using a courser belt (if I dont need to majorly hog) and leaves a nicer finish.

I'm really developing a love for it for convex geometries also, since its easy to rock over the disc and it doesn't pull like a belt over flat platen does. On the flip side, mine seems to work better at higher speeds, so for slow work with titanium, I favor the belt at 10-20% with 60g cubitron iis.
 
Carl,

When you see the paper turning red, you're SUPPOSED TO STOP!!!!!:eek:

That must have smarted. Heal quickly.:thumbup:

Bill
 
Whether its tight square fit ups or full flat grinds discs are hard to beat.
Ken.
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Thanks again for all the comments folks. This thread got me excited enough to start playing with grinding bevels.. but then the dang motor starts acting up.

When using the potentiometer on my VFD to get it moving.. it starts a bit rough, smooths out at high speed.... then all of a sudden shuts down. The lights flash yellow... then red on the VFD. So must be some kind of voltage issue???

I will open the wiring box on the motor and see if something is amiss.
 
I used a disc exclusively for almost 18 years. Did not have a belt. I used a belt on occasion but found the ones I used horribly underpowered. I finally built a KMG clone and have enough power to do what I need. I use it for heavy metal removal and final shaping. The disc is used to finesse work and making sure the work is FLAT. I can get a ricasso flat to within .001 without using the SG. Ken's example above is a great display of the quality of work that can be done with a disc. It is hard to believe that first photo is a folder, but the joint is barely visible if you blow up the picture very large. Great Job Ken!
 
Scott- wish I was more of an electrician/technician so I could help you with the VFD troubles.

I forgot to mention above, that if you are ever in southwest WA, I'd be glad to show you how I use my 9" disc. :)

Ken, I never get tired of seeing your super clean and classic work!!! :cool: :thumbup: :D

Edited to add: It seems I've contradicted myself by saying ceramic discs are probably overkill, all the while I was using them in the camp knife WIP... but that's just an example of how I'm constantly tweaking and changing my processes. I do like the ceramic discs because they'll eat steel just like ceramic belts will. BUT! I use my disc more for cleaning up flat grinds off the belt than any kind of hogging, and have found that the 120X Rhynowet works AWESOME for that (and at $0.42 a sheet vs. like $5.00 for a ceramic disc, it's an easy decision! :) ). RyanW, JonnyMac, and JasonM were at the shop last week for a visit and I showed them how you can go from a 50X belt to a 120X Rhyno disc and get all the 50X marks out in just a few minutes. :eek: :)
 
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Thanks Nick for the 50 - 120 tip. THAT is the stuff that I need to get from this machine.

By the way... that machine is running fine again. I'm in the process of making a stand for it... and it wasn't level. I leveled it.. now it's purring.
 
ScottRoush said:
Thanks Nick for the 50 - 120 tip. THAT is the stuff that I need to get from this machine.

By the way... that machine is running fine again. I'm in the process of making a stand for it... and it wasn't level. I leveled it.. now it's purring.
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Ok...pictures, or it doesn't exist.
 
I love disc grinders. The best are the ones that have the vertical spinning post on top, so you can do inside curves as well.
They are usually meant for woods but there's no reason you can't work on other materials.
 
Nick,

That is the reason I don't buy the precut discs. They are way expensive. That and i can run down to the harware store and buy what I need if I am in a pinch. But I have so many auto body finishing supply houses around I can get almost anything in a day now. That and the SIL works in the auto paint dept at NAPA, I get some great discounts.
 
How are you guys cutting your paper to fit the discs? What's the best/fastest way to do this?
Erin
 
I glue it to the face then you can us e a razor knife to cut to fit. Make sure your blade is sharp. Only good for 2-3 cuts though. Some use scissors. The fastest way for me, I just use a piece of steel, an old shop knife and basically pinch off the steel between the blade and disc. Sort of a scissor action. You have to see it to really appreciate the ease.
 
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