Tough as an Abrams Tank

I think you need a fixed blade. Given your budget I'd recommend the ZT 0200, or the Ontario Retribution 1. http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=ON8782

It's a hog! Blade is 3/16th stock which is like a large fixed blade. The liners are 1/8th inch titanium, blade length is 4 5/8th inches which is pretty long. It's so thick that it doesn't look like what it is.

Best of all it's designed for hard use. There are no hot spots to worry about while cutting your car open. :)
 
I know the scenario is farfetched, but I too like to engage in a little fantasy every now and then.
As do you all. No need to go all rational on the OP. :D

I approach the 'problem' from a different angle. What are the requirements of the knife?
It needs to have a stout blade. That rules out just about any Spyderco (sorry, I love my Spyderco's but there isn't a really tough one among them. Most have delicate fragile tips, few are thicker than 3mm and many are distal tapered FFG). The blade needs to be AT LEAST 4mm thick, with preferably a saber grind or low hollow grind.
The knife needs a solid frame, IMHO it needs to be lined, and it needs a strong lock. The pivot has to be thicker than average. If you want to pry with the knife, it needs to be strong laterally, as well as vertically.

I own about 50+ folders, among them such knives as the Spyderco Gayle Bradly, Manix and Manix 2, Strider SMF CC, ZT0300. But the top three knives that I own as far as toughness goes are the Hinderer XM-18, the Lionsteel SR-1, the Cold Steel Black Rhino (modded by Andrew Demko) and the Extrema Ratio RAO.
The RAO is hardly a folder at all (you certainly can't EDC it) but the other three are really as close to indestructible as a folder can get. IMHO, of course. ;)

Directly below that (and in the OP's price range) is the ZT0300. It's tougher than anyone can ever reasonably expect to need. It's an absolute tank as well, and takes an honorable 4th place AFAIC.
 
I would reccomend a Benchmade Presidio Tanto. I have the drop point version myself and can say it has a very strong lock, beefy pivot with large bronze washers (knife doesn't flex side to side at the pivot area) and it has an all metal handle with aluminum scales and full stainless liners. It has a good blade length at 3.4" and a large, very comfortable handle (WAY more comfortable than my ZT 0200).
 
For the price, you cant get beefier and better:
DSC_0074.jpg
 
If I had any inkling that I might have to get out of a locked trunk, I wouldn't want to depend on ANY folder. I'd want something like a TOPS Pry-Knife, or a Becker, Tac-Tool.
JMHO,
EarlFH
 
I'd go for the SAK rescue for getting out of the passenger compartment, and a Stanley or Estwing "Handy Bar" for popping the trunk.
 
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Buffalohump said:
Boy I dont think this subject has ever come up before...... :rolleyes:

Anyhoo...... its probably not the answer you want, but a SAK Rescue has been expressly designed to help rescue people stuck inside cars, so that's my suggestion.

As to being stuck inside the boot of a car.... hmmm..... too many late night movies perhaps?
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First time for everything ;) LOL!
I would think a Leatherman would work best, or maybe pulling the release latch to let yourself out of the trunk would your best option. Flailing around in a panic state, while in the dark trunk of a car is a sure fire way to tear yourself up, and lose a finger or 2 while trying to escape (with a folder or any knife for that matter).

Too many movies might be correct.
 
newyork said:
You've got some great tough kives on your list but I doubt they'll be prying you out of a trunk without breaking. Maybe a fixed blade but more likely a prybar is your answer
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Ding, ding, ding! Somebody give that man a cigar. :thumbup:
 
Three Sisters Forge Beast its 4 inch long solid very thick titanium handles on both sides, it has a S35 blade that is thicker than most fixed blades and will blow most of the knives mentioned here out of the water, its custom made by hand and its 300.00, I've handled one and its SICK, well made and rock solid.

Mission MPF 3 TI PE or PS, I own several of these and there also tougher than just about anything out there, yes you have to sharpen them more because titanium blades are softer, but unless you literally saw it in half or cut with a blow torch you CAN NOT break it, your simply not going to snap the tip or blade unless you try like hell to do so. Hard to find but worth the effort. Same thing 4 inch or dang close handle, 3 inch or dang close blade. The cut for the relief cut is minimal with a healthy relief cut thickness of 0.08 or nearly a tenth of inch thick, the relief cut on this is thicker than many liners and thicker than many other of the knives mentioned above. Remember the whole thing is titanium so no worries with water salt or fresh, mud, blood, etc. lube pivot occasionally, sharpen and go. No rust, not today, tomorrow or well, you get the point.

Steve Rice Titanium Frame Lock He-Man model, I've got one of these as well and it also one tough cookie, get him to make you one with a clip or drop point style blade, both handles are solid titanium, its a frame lock that is right at 4 inches, blade right at 3 and there is no relief cut for the lock so both handles are identical except one is cut for the lock to move over. It takes some thumb strength, but with no relief cut you can take this knife and in terms of lock strength and toughness it beats out anything anyone else has listed. $300.00 and its custom made by hand.

These knives are all well made with solid thick titanium handles on both sides and have relief cuts that are thick or no relief cut out at all, so when it comes to tough they fit the bill and no one seemingly mentioned any of them, and two are handmade customs with one being semi-production (Mission).

Good luck with whatever decision you make.
 
Everyone who recommends a good sturdy fixed blade is of course correct, but they are also IGNORING the OP's question. If he wanted advice on a fixed blade, he would have asked for it.
Besides, most of us carry folders, very few of us EDC fixed blades, let alone FB's tough enough to dismantle a Hummer. :D
 
I keep a Blackjack Campanion in the car for emergency use. Its 1/4" thick 1095 should be adequate for prying a door open, or for hammering through sheet steel.
 
Geez, I haven't been trapped in a car trunk since the late 80's. Sure glad I had my Victorinox Tinker... I MacGyver'ed my way out :D
 
I got trapped in a trunk once with a girl. I didn't want to break out of there for anything. Ahh, the trunks on 1970's vehicles were large...
 
The Mastiff said:
I think you need a fixed blade. Given your budget I'd recommend the ZT 0200, or the Ontario Retribution 1. http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=ON8782

It's a hog! Blade is 3/16th stock which is like a large fixed blade. The liners are 1/8th inch titanium, blade length is 4 5/8th inches which is pretty long. It's so thick that it doesn't look like what it is.

Best of all it's designed for hard use. There are no hot spots to worry about while cutting your car open. :)
Click to expand...

I just saw a video of that knife that thing is a monster it's looks a little bit like a spartan in the handle and it also has a recurve but just a smaller one,.
 
Nternal said:
I just saw a video of that knife [Ontario Hossum Retribution] that thing is a monster it's looks a little bit like a spartan in the handle and it also has a recurve but just a smaller one,.
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Crazy coincidence...ain't it? I wonder which design came first....
 
philwar said:
Everyone who recommends a good sturdy fixed blade is of course correct, but they are also IGNORING the OP's question. If he wanted advice on a fixed blade, he would have asked for it.
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True. But then the OP went on to qualify what he wanted in such a way that a folder was probably the wrong tool for the job. ("I want a knife that if i was trapped say in a vehicle, i would be able to rip or pry an exit that is either jammed or just make a new one . . . a knife that if you were trapped in a trunk of a car, you could cut, slash, dig, rip, or pry your way out.") I'd feel irresponsible recommending ANY folder for those kinds of tasks.
 
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Being a fixed blade doesn't automatically mean it's stronger than a folder. There are exceptionally strong folders that are stronger than my CRKT KISS for example. Like my 0200. Whenever the pivot and lock exceed the integrity of the blade, other factors, not exclusive to folders, come into play.

That said, as far as I'm aware, there are no folders that are stronger than heavy duty FBs. FBs are usually lighter too.
 
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