Traditional and Modern pairings

Thanks Dave. For me, the 710 it is the best of the modern ones. The peanut and the 710 are somehow similar.

Gary
 
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I put this pair in the Opposites Attract thread also. But it's not just a pic, also a fun pair to carry. The 1.6 oz Beagle can disappear just about anywhere. Looks amazing and quite capable for a micro. And the 4 oz Eschaton has been as useful as it is funky. Carries easy and simply fun to use. I apologize in advance to whomever this may offend in the Traditional side of the world. :D.

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bflying said:
I put this pair in the Opposites Attract thread also. But it's not just a pic, also a fun pair to carry. The 1.6 oz Beagle can disappear just about anywhere. Looks amazing and quite capable for a micro. And the 4 oz Eschaton has been as useful as it is funky. Carries easy and simply fun to use. I apologize in advance to whomever this may offend in the Traditional side of the world. :D.

dq43o3.jpg
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Wow, that Eschaton's quite a knife. Amazing machining work. What's the bladesteel? Cool name too, combined with the design aesthetic.:):thumbsup:

Here's a couple of 'evolved' slipjoints I've been enjoying using over the last few months. K390 and M390...

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Cambertree said:
Wow, that Eschaton's quite a knife. Amazing machining work. What's the bladesteel? Cool name too, combined with the design aesthetic.:):thumbsup:

Here's a couple of 'evolved' slipjoints I've been enjoying using over the last few months. K390 and M390...

m0kdNPQ.jpg
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Did you convex the edge on that roundhead?
 
JTB_5 said:
Did you convex the edge on that roundhead?
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Hey Joshua,

No, I gave it the same sharpening treatment I use for all my high carbide, PM steels. I basically thin it out behind the edge at quite an acute V-grind angle, with the blade spine held just high enough above the stone, that I can consistently avoid scratching the blade flats. I used Chosera benchstones in a 400, 1000, 3000 grit progression, then a Shapton ceramic stone at 5000 for the final finish. On other PM steels I'd probably use my Atoma diamond plates, instead.

I don't know what the angle would be, but I'd guess in the region of 11-13 degrees per side.

I'm not worried about edge formation or clean apexing at this point. If you were to continue to simply sharpen to an apex here, you'd end up with a very sharp, and not very durable edge, that would collapse, or chip out in normal use.

Once the edge area is much thinner, and nearly cleanly apexed, I apply a Sharpmaker edge apex at 15dps, then finish with a few light passes on the 20dps setting. It's not really a 'microbevel', as you can just see it with the naked eye. I usually just use the brown rods for this (preceded by the diamond rods, if necessary). M390 seem to perform well with the finer rods in a polished finish as well. On M390, I'll finish with a couple of light passes on a diamond pasted strop, most other high vanadium steels I don't strop that much.

After years of frustrations and experimenting with different sharpening media and techniques, this is what seems to work best for me to give a good cutting geometry, and durability on high vanadium PM steels.

After that treatment, the Roundhead is a wonderful cutter, and it's a breeze to do quick resharpening touchups on the Sharpmaker too.
 
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JTB_5 said:
Cambertree Cambertree that’s pretty elaborate, but makes for a good performing and good looking edge! Thanks for sharing your method.
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Thanks.:) Yeah I know, I’m a sharpening nerd.;):D I find sharpening relaxing, so I don’t mind spending a bit of time to get an edge exactly the way I like it. Of course you could get the same results with any coarse diamond plate and the Sharpmaker, it just wouldn’t be as pretty, is all.;):)

This Police 4 was just thinned out on an Atoma 400 plate then apexed on the brown Sharpmaker rods.:thumbsup:

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Cambertree said:
Thanks.:) Yeah I know, I’m a sharpening nerd.;):D I find sharpening relaxing, so I don’t mind spending a bit of time to get an edge exactly the way I like it. Of course you could get the same results with any coarse diamond plate and the Sharpmaker, it just wouldn’t be as pretty, is all.;):)

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I agree that sharpening is relaxing! I have an 800 grit king water stone (the nicer one) and I love using it. I haven’t got a lot of experience so I don’t think I make the best edge, but it works well for my needs. A little black and green bark river stropping or a honing rod keeps the edge keen enough. I’d like to be better, but it takes some time to learn I’m sure.
 
Yep, I think I like sharpening and learning about different steels, as much as I like the knives themselves!;):thumbsup:

If you keep that King nice and flat, you're well equipped with that setup to handle any simple carbons and stainlesses.:thumbsup:

I initially bought a few carbon and stainless Opinels to practise on with different media and techniques.
 
Cambertree said:
Yep, I think I like sharpening and learning about different steels, as much as I like the knives themselves!;):thumbsup:

If you keep that King nice and flat, you're well equipped with that setup to handle any simple carbons and stainlesses.:thumbsup:

I initially bought a few carbon and stainless Opinels to practise on with different media and techniques.
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I need to get a flattening stone. I have enjoyed watching virtuovice on YouTube although he’s pretty picky it seems.
 
JTB_5 said:
I need to get a flattening stone. I have enjoyed watching virtuovice on YouTube although he’s pretty picky it seems.
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You can just use a piece of coarse wet'n'dry sandpaper (in say the 80/180/240 grit range) on any flat surface, like a bit of glass, or a benchtop.:thumbsup:

I tried to get in touch with Doc when I was in Hokkaido in 2014, but had some trouble navigating my way through the Japanese internet.;):rolleyes::)
 
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