Traditional Folder harder use question

S

Scott321

Joined
Jul 20, 2016
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Hello all, I have a noobish question. I was thinking about picking up a nice traditional folder to swap into my EDC rotation. However, I was wondering about how strong a traditional lockback or slipjoint might be for harder tasks.

Specifically, occasionally I will cut something like thick garden hose (with the hard plastic inside liner... or at least it cuts like plastic on the old pieces I've had to cut), or trim some evergreen sprouts (which the fibers can require a stronger pressure). I would have to estimate that these cuts often take about 50-60 lbs of force (estimated by feel in comparison to lifting dumbbells with equivalent weights). Sometimes (like the garden hose) I will have to slice the hose at that pressure a few times for one cut... then make a few more cuts depending on circumstance.

I ask this, because I bent the spring on a chinese swiss army knife knockoff I received for free many years ago opening one two many beer bottles (honestly it was only like 20 bottles)... or maybe it was the mount on the spring I don't remember. Are the tasks I mentioned in the preceding paragraph more suited to more modern knives? I would be looking for a blade between 3-3.5".

Thank you for any input.
 
I've used my traditional to cut hoses many times. I've never encountered a core or liner like what you describe. I have cut plastic tubing with it often. Never had a problem. Never bent a sprint or broke a blade.

Sounds like you need to select the proper traditional. A nice stout blade and good back spring to support it. Like maybe a good sodbuster or maybe even a buck 110 or some such rather than a small, less stout one.

50-60 lbs of force is a lot. Maybe its technique sometimes? Use the edge to slice instead of brute force push I find work a ton better.

Can't comment on opening beer bottles. I have a bottle opener for that.
 
A knife like the Sodbuster should handle those tasks with no problem. Case makes a Sodbuster in both carbon and stainless steel models. Queen makes a Sodbuster with D2 steel. GEC also makes a version of the Sodbuster called the Bullnose.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. When you guys suggest Sodbusters, I'm assuming that the Sodbuster Jr. sizes might not be robust enough? I was hoping to carry something smaller than the 110 (not that I mind carrying bigger knives, I'm just looking for something slightly smaller for my next purchase).

For the tasks I mention, push cutting requires that force. If I draw the blade across the material, it works better, but still takes a lot of force... unfortunately this means serrations are a little more efficient for those tasks for me, but I know that's not really an option with the traditional folders.

SVTF, the spring I had issues with was the spring for the bottle opener on that knife.
 
jc57 said:
The Buck 300-series (301, 303, etc) are pretty sturdy knives.
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I was looking at that line before, but I was thinking about something with a taller grip... maybe like their 389.

I'm going to keep "Sodbuster" on my radar though, in the future. I'm liking a Case Sodbuster Jr. John Deere version.
 
If you are needing to apply that much force to cut, I'd suggest you look at a fixed blade. I doubt many folders will withstand that type of use.
Rich
 
Not sure whether it matters to you or not, but the Buck 37x and 38x product line is manufactured outside the US, and I believe uses a lower quality steel (420J2) than the US-made knives, which are 420HC with a good heat treatment.
 
Rich S said:
If you are needing to apply that much force to cut, I'd suggest you look at a fixed blade. I doubt many folders will withstand that type of use.
Rich
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I've used a PM2, BM 520 and 570, and a LM Crater c33tx for these tasks. They were no worse for wear afterwards... although I really appreciated the thicker handles on the BM and LM. These are occasional heavier tasks, as I will use another tool/knife if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of heavy tasks.

jc57 said:
Not sure whether it matters to you or not, but the Buck 37x and 38x product line is manufactured outside the US, and I believe uses a lower quality steel (420J2) than the US-made knives, which are 420HC with a good heat treatment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. Yes, for a traditional knife I would prefer the US made options.
 
I have always accused my father of abusing his knives, but I'm almost always astounded at how long they last.

He had a brown Case pen knife (probably a '70s model) that lasted almost 30 years doing things like trimming copper pipe ends, prying nails, turning screws, cutting wire, and I'm sure many other things I can't recall. I'd offer to find appropriate tools, but he'd quickly reply "nope, this'll work" as I was forced to watch, cringing the entire time. Of course he ruined the edge a few times, and bent it, but he'd sharpen it and straighten it, and put it back in his pocket. The blades were sharpened to about the size of toothpicks before he eventually lost it.

A Chinese Uncle Henry followed that one and lasted about 2 years. A Case small stockman followed that, and was doing well until he started redoing their bathroom. All of the pins came loose and the thing feels like it's held together by a thread. I asked what the heck he did to it, and he smirked and said "it's not as good of a pry bar as my old Case was"

I'm getting him a GEC for Father's day, and crossing my fingers.

I guess my point is, I'm sure with a sturdy enough blade from a quality manufacturer, you should have ZERO concerns with the tasks you described. If a pen knife can do it, I'm sure a beefier model will serve you quite well.
 
To be honest, I know this is the traditional forum but for what you use a knife for, I'd probably grab one of my modern locking folders for that type of work. If I were going to use a slipjoint folder for that out of my current collection, I would grab either the Buck 301 or Case 6375 Large Stockman. I might try my Queen Country Cousin which has D2 steel if the Case SS dulled too quickly.
 
Men that helped settle the country and fought wars got by with only traditional knives. Plenty of guys around where I live in the middle of nowhere only know traditional knives and wouldn't even consider a new "plastic knife" as I've heard them referred as. They are the original hard use knife!
Also, Case has several options now that have a serrated blade so you might look into that.
 
If the Buck 110 is a little too big, get the 112.
When I know I am going to face some heavy work, I'll carry one of my Rough Rider large Sunfish, or a Rough Rider Half Hawk (sheepsfoot plus a pen blade) or a Rough Rider Marlin Spike knife
 
This evening I got a wild hare, and ran my GEC Bullnose through a bunch of insulated wire of varying gauges, a ton of heavy duty cardboard, and an old vacuum hose I found in the building's garbage room.

The back spring on the Bullnose (sodbuster) is pretty righteous, and didn't give me any pause. The edge needed several good swipes on the Sharpmaker to come back, but it's all good.
 
I've used my GEC #15 boys knife, (sheepsfoot and pen) to cut through a bunch of 3/4" recycled rubber patio tiles. These things even have some bits of metal in them. By the end of the job the knife was noticeable duller but held up perfectly. One small chip,(sharpened out no issue) no blade play, and was comfortable in use so as long as you get a quality knife, you'll be just fine.
 
To me, loosening up the joints would be the main concern, but as long as you don't put too much lateral stress on the blade it should be OK. I use my old Northfield Pioneer linerlock to do some outdoor work, cutting back plants and stems, opening mulch and dirt bags, even digging out a few dandylions. No problems so far.

23stagLL_zps3a7a5ecc.jpg~original
 
Get a quality knife, and sharpen it well, and you'll have no problem.
Those traditional thin blades will slice like a scalpel!
 
My GEC 73 is as tough as they come. I have a pile of knives which I use for dirty crappy tasks and it and my case sodbuster are at the top of that pile.

Made to work!
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If you are using about 50-60 pounds of force to make these cuts you're talking about I think your knife may be too dull and/or have poor edge geometry. It could also have to do with the way you are cutting.

Any well made pocket knife will do just fine on hard cutting if you use it appropriately.
 
I've done all the things you describe with a Schrade 8OT from the 1970s to last week. A thin blade with a good edge shouldn't require anywhere near that much force.
 
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