Traditional Folder harder use question

Perhaps something with a hawksbill would suit your style better. Fixed or folding, both can be obtained, and are excellent hard use cutters.
Thanks, Neal
 
Look I really like modern folders. Used to go really hard on the traditional but now I've moved into a more modern state of mind. However if you want something that'll take hard cutting an Alox model SAK will do what you've outlined easily. I used to work in a saw mill and farm labouring etc, so I know what you mean about hard use. I have used SAKs in that application without any troubles. I'm not too sure about anything that has a brass pivot pin holding up to that sort of use, although having said that I own a Queen cutlery rail splitter stockman which is doing pretty well. That comes in D2 and holds a pretty decent edge fro a quite a while not to mention being a solid little beggar. Other than that sodbusters are a traditional hard use knife, as already mentioned and they are quite sturdy in their own right.I have my eye on Queen's d2 model.
 
Scott321 said:
Hello all, I have a noobish question. I was thinking about picking up a nice traditional folder to swap into my EDC rotation. However, I was wondering about how strong a traditional lockback or slipjoint might be for harder tasks.

Specifically, occasionally I will cut something like thick garden hose (with the hard plastic inside liner... or at least it cuts like plastic on the old pieces I've had to cut), or trim some evergreen sprouts (which the fibers can require a stronger pressure). I would have to estimate that these cuts often take about 50-60 lbs of force (estimated by feel in comparison to lifting dumbbells with equivalent weights). Sometimes (like the garden hose) I will have to slice the hose at that pressure a few times for one cut... then make a few more cuts depending on circumstance.

I ask this, because I bent the spring on a chinese swiss army knife knockoff I received for free many years ago opening one two many beer bottles (honestly it was only like 20 bottles)... or maybe it was the mount on the spring I don't remember. Are the tasks I mentioned in the preceding paragraph more suited to more modern knives? I would be looking for a blade between 3-3.5".

Thank you for any input.
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You don't need a special heavy duty traditional knife for heavy cutting chores. Just because a cheapie traditional knockoff failed does not mean that actual, normally built, traditional knives will fail.

I've used traditional knives for every kind of cutting chore, light or heavy, for decades. Water hose, hard plastic flash from plumbing parts, all manner of plant trimming, coolant hoses for car engines, insulation on electrical wire, outer covers on Romex, thick heavy rubber, scraping carbon deposits off spark plugs and crud off car battery terminals.

I have done so using regular user grade stockman, and barlow knives with 440A steel blades. Not a problem. People used traditional knives for all their cutting chores for centuries before all the nice super alloys showed up. And their knives did not break.

PM steels and melt alloys with carbides are nice. They cut longer than regular stainless. I like them and prefer them when possible. But the regular stainless still cuts, it just requires more frequent sharpening. The knives themselves are bullet proof. They don't break.
 
I'd suggest an Opinel as well!
Or the other knife that is built, very, very sturdily is the Bullnose's big brother the GEC Bullbuster.
I think my limbs would break before it gave out in any way!
Truly a well (over) built traditional knife, I'd bet it would take all of this and more, though some of the work might be described as abuse
Take care
Graham
 
The Opinel is a good option as it has a thin very dependable slicing Clip blade plus a locking collar and thick rounded wooden handles that are supremely comfortable.

However, a GEC 73 liner-lock (it has a conventional backspring plus the added security of a liner lock) would be a very viable choice too:large choice of handles to choose from and a decent Drop-Point blade. About the right size too at 3.75" closed, not too big unlike the Buck 110 pocket monster, nor too small to get a good purchase on.

Queen Cutlery's Copperhead or Teardrop with liner locks are also good choices due to a tough lock system, medium size and above all, their D2 blade which will out cut 1095 by a considerable margin.

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Opinel #9

Among traditional knives I've owned, the Opinel handles hard cutting with the least damage.

Never rely on the Opinels lock to prevent closing however.
 
One of the larger Opinels would probably work, or an MAM. When I think "hard use", I also think disposable and replaceable. Yet safe. If you want something beefier, I'd go with a fixed blade. If you're doing work around the house or outside in the yard or garden, a fixed blade in a belt sheath shouldn't be a burden and would be more convenient that a folding pocket knife.
 
My go-to "hard use" folder is a SAK Alox Rancher. I've done sheetrock work, punched holes in the leather, drilled holes in wood, stripped insulation from wiring, cut cables and zip ties, pried, etc without ever damaging the knife. I do not sing its merits enough. It handles whatever I need it to.

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That's one of my favorites. I've got two. They're getting hard/expensive to find since they've been discontinued. I've got one of the electrician's versions as well. I don't really use them for hard use though, unless opening a bottle of Kiltlifer or Fat Tire is considered "hard use". I love the awl on these things. I used to drill holes in pennies back in high school when I was bored back when nobody cared if you carried a knife in school.
 
Jak3 said:
Get a quality knife, and sharpen it well, and you'll have no problem.
Those traditional thin blades will slice like a scalpel!
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This! Hose and evergreen sprouts sounds to me like another day at the office for a well made pocketknife. A sodbuster Jr. would do you fine. Or a Buck 301 or 501.
 
I've used my Case copperlock to field dress a few deer and I believe it will handle your tasks with ease, if it is used properly. This knife knife comes in two sizes, I have the larger model and it carries nicely in a front pocket.
 
I think the victorinox solo would be a good option. It's pretty substantial and a great cutter. You may have to look around a little to find one, but they're really great.

But if we're talking single blade knives, the aforementioned sodbuster is my favorite.

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Great posts everyone thank you for your experiences and input. I welcome any further suggestions but I think I've laid out my "to get" list when my budget allows. I guess I should put my Alox Pioneer X back in rotation too and see how that holds up. Also, most of my blades are sharpened to 30 degrees inclusive, with the less expensive steels I also add a 40 degree micro bevel (SharpMaker).

So...
1. GEC Farm and field to Hahn helper two blade
2. GEC #15 Crown Lifter (or possibly Beer Scout(
3. Possibly a #38 or something else like a #72 depending on if I still have this traditional knife bug after the first two.

BTW, Opinel has been on the list for awhile too. I'll just have to adjust my EDC system to include whatever is outside the bounds of the traditional knives.

Thanks again for the input.
 
matt009au said:
My GEC 73 is as tough as they come. I have a pile of knives which I use for dirty crappy tasks and it and my case sodbuster are at the top of that pile.

Made to work!
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We really need some better pictures of that #73. The stag has aged beautifully and is that blade as wore down as it appears?

Back to the OP, any of the following will work just fine. The #71 and #54 being the most comfy to use for hard pressure cutting.image.jpeg
 
To the OP -

To elaborate a bit more on my traditional knife thinking when it comes to your original question:

I don't think a traditional knife user usually expends that 50-60lb pressure effort to do those tasks you mentioned.

Most of our knives are thinner, and thus able to cut hose of all types without that much effort. Putting 50lbs on a thinner knife yields much higher pressure onto what you're cutting than having a thicker ground knife. to take it to the extreme, it's kind of analogous to cutting with a scalpel vs. cutting with a pry bar.

As for cutting saplings or wood or plant material, if the sapling is larger, the technique of multiple push cuts at slightly different angles gets you through with less exertion than trying one grand push/chop. Frankly, if you're cutting a lot of wood, a Swiss Army knife or leatherman with saw As a tool that may let your accomplish the tasks with even less effort.

As for the knife closing on you because of a slip joint, it's more likely this happens when you're trying to pull a knife out and it's stuck in the material. I've never cut myself in this manner. When the knife starts to inadvertently close when pulling out, my hand feels this and i know it instantly that I stop. I would watch out more though, if you were stabbing with the point and then continuing to apply pressure on the point. I think this could cause you to inadvertently close the knife.

Almost every time I can remember when I've cut myself with a slipjoint, is when I've 1) not respected the sharpness of the knife 2) was sharpening 3) was playing with it 4) was trying to cut myself on purpose.

To add, I think the sodbuster and sodbuster junior a nice because they have very robust springs. However.I'm not as much of a fan of the hollow grind on the junior though. My sodbuster junior has a pretty pronounced hollow grind, which makes it great for initial penetration - but when the material is thicker, he knife starts to bind up in the material. My regular sodbuster also has a hollow grind, but it's much less pronounced, and thus gets through thicker materials easier. I'm curious if others have had case sodbusters v sodbuster juniors with similar grind shapes? Or is it just mine? In general I've got a preference for blades that a near flat ground, or subtly convex.
 
Technique is important.
Thin blades slice better.
A Case 3375 will work well.
Sodbuster and Jr. Will work well.
 
I'm pretty much done with Case and Queen. Too many lemons. GEC or customs for me from now own, except for perhaps the Case/Bose collaborations.
 
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