Traditional Folder harder use question

Perhaps something with a hawksbill would suit your style better. Fixed or folding, both can be obtained, and are excellent hard use cutters.
Thanks, Neal
Amen! i've been carrying my Western 854 utility on and off for 35+ years. other than using as a pry bar i'm much like Sabercat's dad. i'll deburr pipe, cut wire and mild steel, touch up the edge and go on. as for evergreen sprouts, its also called a pruner. no knife will do you better for grapes, roses, and other plants. a TL29 is also a hard working knife.
 
We really need some better pictures of that #73. The stag has aged beautifully and is that blade as wore down as it appears?

Back to the OP, any of the following will work just fine. The #71 and #54 being the most comfy to use for hard pressure cutting.View attachment 710740
Thanks for the kind words B blademan 13 ;, I hadn't notice it actually but the belly has thinned out a lot. Some pics with a relatively unused 735115:

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Awesome, thanks for taking the time to post those pics. That is one of the most beautifully age GEC's that I have seen. Seriously has me reconsidering down sizing my rotation in favor of better using my favorites. Something to ponder for sure. Well done!
 
Awesome, thanks for taking the time to post those pics. That is one of the most beautifully age GEC's that I have seen. Seriously has me reconsidering down sizing my rotation in favor of better using my favorites. Something to ponder for sure. Well done!
And who would have thought the trick is to treat em like you just don't care! Re-took the pics as I noticed they were somewhat blurry B blademan 13 ;
Tough little buggers the 73. The stiff springs are definitely a plus when you put em to work. Even if you do lose a few fingernails along the way.
 
My first thought is a Smith & Sons Mudbug, which is a large locking GEC sodbuster SFO. It's probably the toughest traditional folder in my collection.

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These two have stood up to everything I've thrown at them with no problems. I haven't even had to sharpen the Fannin yet even after cutting wire and fiberglass insulation.
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If properly used there's no reason any quality pocket knife couldn't do any of the things u describe. It's all in proper use and of course a sharp edge.
 
So, I was thinking about this thread this weekend as I was putting new roofing on the shed that is somewhat attached to the back of the barn without falling off or through the roof.

Couple of loose thoughts on what works for me. YMMV.

GRIP MATTERS - I have XL sized hands. Cutting the rolls of roofing material was hard. I had to apply a lot of pressure. Then, later, I needed to make some more precise cuts using a variety of different holds. I hate grips that lock me in to a single position and prefer a larger handle for tasks that require a lot of cutting pressure. I was using a Buck 110 and I find it to be a real favorite of mine for extended cutting. I also really like a modified Opinel #10 for folders. For fixed blades, the Mora Companion is very hard to beat. I find the Opinel #9 and Case Large Sodbuster to be nice town knives. Big enough for food. Small enough for easy carry. But the handles are big enough for really hard cutting. Not for me anyway.

USED WITH IMPUNITY - The blade on my Opinels and Bucks look like crap. They're scratched to heck and back. Roof material does that. So does cutting flashing. They also develop blade loss through repeated sharpening. They're just tools to be used and used up. Buck will replace blades for very little money. Opinels cost very little new. Sure... I have some lookers that I don't use in hard use conditions. But a user knife for me is a user.

REAR POCKET CARRY FOLDER - I like fixed blades in the hand. Who doesn't. I don't like carrying a fixed blade. I just can't stand things on my belt. I sew a seam up the back of my right rear pocket and put my big folder there. Much easier to move around. No need to take the knife on and off my belt when running to the store for more roofing tar.

LOCKING FOLDER - Opinions vary on this. Yes, I know how to handle a slip joint. Yes, I know better than to push a locking mechanism hard. But when I'm making a plunge cut, whether it be a piece of roofing or a frozen hamburger patties, I want a lock.

BLADE PLAY - I hate blade play. Just hate it. No knife I've used is more resistant to blade play than the Opinel. IMO, the toughest joint I've used is the Opinel. The Buck 110 is plenty rugged. But they can loosen up over time, both vertically and horizontally. Buck has a great warranty and great customer service but any lock back can develop lock rock.

DIRT AND SAND - I'm going up to open my uncle's cabin this weekend. I'll be spending a lot of time on a sandy beach. I'll be carrying the Opinel #10. It's the only folding knife I've owned that I can drop in the sand and knock it off on my boot heel and pick up where I left off. Sure, the lock ring will be gritty but it will be as safe as ever. I like my 110 plenty but it doesn't like sand.

Opinel #10. Buck 110. Those are my hard use traditional folders of choice.
 
Assuming everything else equal (reasonable quality, properly heat treated steel, etc.), it comes down to sharpness requirement for the job - a razor edge may dull quickly when cutting through fibrous material, while a sawtooth-styled edge ("work edge") will last longer. Need to apply lateral force is doing it wrong, and implies some parameter out of spec (mostly the sharpness).

Personally, I find no difference in the cutting ability of a properly sharpened GEC traditional and a big-beefy folder. Making knives beefy (fat) is just broadening their ability beyond mere cutting chores. :D
 
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