Trapper or ???

I have several Case knives and quite like them. The only aspect that often annoys me is when cutting food with a hollow ground blade it twists, making it more difficult to cut uniform thickness slices. If I think about that and compensate it works ok.

Much to ponder...
 
CraigTbone said:
Looking at some Case Trappers. How do you determine what pattern it is?
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The classic and most popular trapper pattern from Case is the '54 pattern, as in 6254, 3254, 5254 for bone (smooth or jigged), yellow delrin and stag, respectively. Those pattern numbers will be stamped on the tang of one of the two blades in each. Stainless steel & bone would be '6254 SS', or CV steel in yellow delrin would be '3254 CV', for example, when searching for these on the web.
 
Thank you all for your input. Most helpful and appreciated.

Well, I decided buying from so far away was not what I want to do so that Queen Trapper will not be mine.

I found a Case Trapper 7254 SS with curly maple handles. I do like wood. Will give it a try. As mentioned previously, my only concern with the Case is the hollow ground blades. When cutting many foods the curve of the grind twists the blade.

Those Schrades look great. Will keep a lookout for one.

Boker knives look very well made (from the photos, never held one). Even though not American made I might need to try one out.

I still have my heart set on getting a Queen Trapper, preferably with wood handles, some day. Will keep looking.

Continued thoughts and input is most welcomed and encouraged.
 
Several weeks ago I purchased a Case Muskrat (do not know the model #). This was going to be my out-and-about food knife. 3 7/8" folded length. Rounded both ends and thin overall makes it quite pocket friendly. A bit narrower than a Trapper. To me looks better than a Trapper. I was liking it.

Until I received it and discovered that the blades do not open "fully". It just feels like they are partly closed when opened. That angle might work for some tasks but to me it just feels wrong. None of the photos showed it fully opened so I didn't know this little detail.

If not for that blade angle, this Muskrat would have been my food knife.
 
JohnDF said:
I agree... My Case Sodbuster Jr makes a fantastic steak knife. 🤠:thumbsup:
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yours must be in delrin? If not, are you sure it is hollow ground?

CraigTbone said:
Several weeks ago I purchased a Case Muskrat (do not know the model #). This was going to be my out-and-about food knife. 3 7/8" folded length. Rounded both ends and thin overall makes it quite pocket friendly. A bit narrower than a Trapper. To me looks better than a Trapper. I was liking it.

Until I received it and discovered that the blades do not open "fully". It just feels like they are partly closed when opened. That angle might work for some tasks but to me it just feels wrong. None of the photos showed it fully opened so I didn't know this little detail.

If not for that blade angle, this Muskrat would have been my food knife.
Click to expand...

Not that it matter's here for this topic but its interesting info to have IMO. With Case, Muskrat IS the model # for that pattern... For some reason they just use the name on that one and the mini muskrat.

I hear you on the angle, it is different. Its actually rather nice for cutting against a surface, because you get more blade down to cut with before your hand/knuckles hit the table... But it does take getting used to.

If you decide to go single blade, something to look at is the bone handled versions of Cases' Sodbuster Jr. Mine in chestnut bone and CV steel is flat ground.

I remember recently reading somewhere here that the Delrin handled models of the pattern are hollow ground,(I have a yellow one that is), but the bone ones are all flat ground. ( I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will correct me here shortly...)

My preference has become single blade knives for food, I've found them easier to keep clean without a second set of pivot areas to gum up.

The knife I carry in my daily go bag, for food use is a Case 48 pattern, Slimline trapper, its a long narrow clip blade, thin light and wicked sharp. Its like eating with a laser. (Hollow ground)

But anyway, I wish you luck in your search!
 
A few days ago I was once again looking through the Case Trappers in the SMKW web site. I guess I was hoping to find a Case Trapper with flat ground blades even though almost all Case folders are hollow ground. And I already looked without finding one. Multiple times.

But to my complete surprise there they are! In the Specs it says Flat Ground. I found these 4 Trappers that the specs say are flat ground: CA80161
CA58182
CA6254SS
CA28707
There may be more, those are the ones I found.

I was rather skeptical so I sent an email to SMKW asking for verification that they in fact were all flat ground. The reply was yes, those are all flat ground!!!

I looked in a number of other web sites but no others mention flat ground for those models. And SMKW does not identify all the others as hollow ground. I did not find a way of searching for Case flat ground.

I ordered a CA80161. Has not arrived yet but I will let you know when it arrives.

I know for you hollow grind lovers I am a nut. Every time I compare a hollow with flat grind I just like the way the flat grind cuts.
 
Sometimes have to take the 'flat ground' description from vendors with a grain of salt. I think many would be better described as 'flat-ish'. It's usually easier to see which it is, with the knife in hand. Sometimes the 'flat' grind is actually a subtle & shallow hollow (or sometimes called 'concave' grind), as seen in many of Case's blades; although some patterns are actually flat grinds. A lot of factory grinding is done either on wheels or on belts, either of which can introduce some concavity by grinding on abrasive wheels or on belts travelling over a wheel, or some convex on belts with even a tiny bit of slack in them, or not backed by a platen. Past a certain wheel diameter, some blades will look essentially flat-ground, but will still necessarily be subtly concave ('hollow'), because the grinding was done on a wheel, even if a very large-diameter one.

I have an older, 1970-vintage 2138 Sod Buster from Case, that I'm sure would've been described as and intended to be flat-ground. But I've always been aware, upon close inspection, it's actually a very subtle convex, no doubt ground on a belt with a tiny bit of slack. Pic is below - the 1970 model is at the left of the two seen, and the other is a 2009 model, which is much closer to being true flat. By this picture, the 1970 would still look essentially flat. But looking closer down the length of the blade, toward the plunge grind at the ricasso, it's easier to see the subtle convex in it, and also seen sometimes in how the light reflects off the blade.

y519XEX.jpg


Easiest way to know, either way, is to lay a straight edge alongside the blade, from spine-to-edge.
 
Thanks OwE.
My dislike of pronounced concave grind is the tendency for the knife to twist when cutting some things.

Presumably a very mild concave will twist mildly.

I will be able to determine the flatness of the Case when it arrives in a few days.
 
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