Try this with your Sebenza...

Joined
Oct 5, 1998
Messages
1,830
...THEN tell me I'm crazy.
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Yes, I got yet another Sebenza. A large plain with polished hardware, and new style "clip." Born on Feb. 24th. 2000.

Well, here's what I did, as with all my others.

- If new, work the action for a while, to allow any "break in" to occur.

- Fully disassemble.

- Wash the handle slabs, blade, and clip with soap and warm water.

- Rinse these parts and spray down with glass cleaner, (preferrably Armor All Auto Glass Cleaner) and rinse with warm water again.

- Take all the hardware in your hand, and soak them with the glass cleaner, then rinse.

- Dry off all the individual parts, (even inside the screw sets) and wipe off any, and all remaining grease or lube. Clean the screw threads by "screwing" them into a dry towel.

- Insert the smooth side of the screw sets in the "front" handle slab, and lay down on hard / flat surface.

- Add the anodized handle spacer, and stop pin.

- Hold the pivot bushing between your index finger and thumb, and lightly spray with Rem Oil...shaking off all excess oil, leaving a very thin coating.

- Install the pivot bearing making sure to keep oil out of the "pivot pin" threads.

- Take the large blade washer and lightly spray with Rem Oil, and rub in between your fingers leaving a VERY thin layer of oil on both sides.

- Install the large washer over the pivot bushing.

- Pick up the blade, and VERY...VERY lightly rub some Rem Oil on the pivot area, inside, and out, with your finger.

- Install the blade over the pivot pin bushing VERY...VERY carefully. It should EASILY slide right over top of it, so the bushing sets in the blade.

- Lightly oil the small blade washer the same way, and install it over top of the blade.

- "Cock" the blade at approx. a 45 degree angle from the open position. This will keep the stop pin from "seating" all the way before final assembly, which causes the lock bar to fully engage.

- Set the locking side handle slab over top, matching up the holes with the screw pins, and press into place.

- Hold everything together with your index finger, while placing the screws into place, and tighten them down.

- Now, tighten all 3 screws down how you like them, and work the action a few times without locking the blade in the open position.

- Open the blade about 80% of the way open, and lightly "snap" the blade in the open position. Repeat this 3 - 4 times so that the pivot pin "seats" itself for that perfect lock up.

- Check the screws to see that they are still nice and snug.

- Open the blade again, and install the clip. This way, their is no tension on the clip, when tightening the screw down.
I bend my clips so that they just contact the lock bar when in the open position for the perfect clip tension. (However, mine has the clip "notch," so yours may vary.)

- Now, carefully shake the open knife as if you were shaking water out of the pivot area to see that you have no access oil at all. If so, it will come out on the blade, if not, you've done it "right."
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Wipe off any oil that may appear near the pivot area, between the handle slabs, in the open, and closed position. Especially on the blade tang where the lock bar contacts.

- Hit that blade on the fine 204MF sharpmaker stone at a 40 degree angle about 10 times, and wipe some Rem Oil on the whole blade. Remove any access and wipe well with a clean cloth. (Try doing it as if you were "fog" cleaning your eye glasses.) This will keep the finger prints away too.

- Now, work that super smooth action, and shove it in your pocket.

You shouldn't have to relube, (very little) and you won't collect nearly as much pocket junk. Plus, the action is at least twice as smooth now, and all parts are clean...clean..clean.
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-AR

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- AKTI Member ID# A000322

[This message has been edited by Jackyl (edited 03-27-2000).]
 
Thanks! I did the drill, but used the CRK lube on the pivots. Only thing, RemOil on the blade, makes food taste funny...
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"Hi, I'm Fish, and I'm a Sebenzaholic..."
copfish@aol.com
 
This is completely foreign to the way I assemble my Sebenza, however I will try it some time. The cleaning tips sound good.
Thanks
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Hehehe...that's why you remove all the Rem Oil from the blade..and I mena ALL of it. I just do that to...well, I dunno really, but it seems like a good idea to rub it down after all the soap and water.

Give it a try Thom, let me know how it works.

-AR

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- AKTI Member ID# A000322
 
Sounds good. Is the purpose of the soap and water to remove pre-break-in lubicant and the associated suspended fines? If so, what would think about substituting soap and water with pressurized gun action cleaner, which leaves everything bobe dry once it evaporates?
 
Cool man!!! Hey, NG...I use soap and water, to get all the oils, and grease out of the bead blasted pores so it looks, and feels a lot better, IMO. I wouldn't want to use any chemicals as soap and water, and Windex, (chemical) do just fine.

-AR

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- AKTI Member ID# A000322
 
Geez Jackyl, did you give *birth* to that new 'Benz?!

Just kidding (we all understand how and why the l'il feller deserves all that TLC!). Now I don't feel so alone
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... But have you ever taken down, cleaned, and reassembled your Sebenza while others (esp non-knifeknuts) are present? If so, what do you makeof that look in their faces?

Glen

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Thank me -- my posts make yours sound smarter.
 
Sounds Good! I also use Tuff-Glide - I've tried all the others and like TG the best. When I take my Benzas apart, I spray all the parts with Contact Cleaner - the stuff used to clean and "wash" flux off of circuit boards. It evaporates almost immediately upon contact, removing all grease and solid particles leaving absolutely no residue. The parts cleaned are practically sterile after using this stuff! Radio Shack or True Value sells the stuff. Make sure not to get Contact LUBRICANT because this stuff DOES leave a residue.
Steve
 
Hehehe...yes I have, with all my Sebenzas. No weird looks, since this is a one time thing with all new Sebenzas, NOT a weekly Sun. ritual.
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-AR

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- AKTI Member ID# A000322
 
Keeping myself a copy of the procedure - thanks for sharing!

"new style clip"? - what is it - did I miss something?
 
Thanks man, what I meant was, mine has the "cut out" under the clip to allow for thicker clothing underneath.

-AR

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- AKTI Member ID# A000322
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jackyl:
Thanks man, what I meant was, mine has the "cut out" under the clip to allow for thicker clothing underneath.

-AR

</font>

The "cut out" under the clip was intended to be more "clothing friendly." As Dennis Wright so accurately put it, the thickness of that slab is the same whether the "cutout" is there or not. The new clip was a way to be more clothing friendly and therefore did not require the relief under the clip. The earlier slabs, without he "cut out" are actually the "new" slabs, except that the new clip design gives more clearance for clothing. Bottom line: the thinnest part of the slab is still the same.
 
just took down my (forst)sebenza today for the first time (got it yesterday)
for a lube try break free's "greased lightning" (used to be the LP in the silver bottle) it works better than anything else I have used, including clp, tuf glide, militech1, rem-oil, mpro7 lube and corrosionX.
I wish I'd found these instructions earlier!
cheers,
Derek
Birmingham, AL
 
The technique listed is great, but that sure is a lot of work for a brand new knife out of the box. I trust Chris to know how to put his knife together and build it of clean parts. I don't take mine apart until they actually get dirty or I can begin to feel a difference in the action.


[This message has been edited by matthew rapaport (edited 02-05-2001).]
 
I'm with you Matt. Although it is fun to take them apart. I guess it's just difficult not to play with your sebenza's one way or another...
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For new-to-you, pre-owned Sebenzas you might add a step involving rosewater and some chanting to ward off any potential bad kharma that accumulated in the past
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.

Seriously, I gave this a try (with Breakfree; it's all I've got right now) and I am amazed at the ease and speed with which the process can be undertaken. I might've mixed up a step or two, but she's clean as a whistle!

Thanks for taking the time and care to post this! This small Sebenza's growing on me.

Professor.
 
I too, tried this on my large plain.....it was new when I got it, and that was a mere two weeks ago...
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However, I look at it sort of like a firearm...whether you get them new, used, used but clean, etc., you tear it down and clean 'em so that it really is *clean*. It helps make it yours, and makes it *your* kind of clean. Sad thing is, you can't do this with all knives.(BTW, I used rem-oil, worked great)

I must say though, I spent as much time attempting to re-tie the lanyard and get it just right, as I did on the entire rest of the cleaning process.
And it's still not perfect. I think I might just try and fabricate one out of silly-putty...quick on-and-off.

slag
 
I gave up trying to tie the lanyard (never could on microtechs either, even with directions) so I just tied a bowline to it. more useful to me anyway.
cheers,
Derek
Birmingham, AL
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by dwenslen:
I gave up trying to tie the lanyard (never could on microtechs either, even with directions) so I just tied a bowline to it. more useful to me anyway.
cheers,
Derek
Birmingham, AL
</font>

Chris uses a hangman's knoose for his lanyard knot. He doesn't call it that on his web page... calls it a "coil knot" to avoid controversy I suppose.

http://www.chrisreeve.com/righthandcoilknot.jpg

I thought the pictures were very good and you should probably be able to replicate based on the pics. I learned the knot as a Boy Scout, and the pics should do it.

It is really just a multi turn slip knot. That won't unravel.
 
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