Trying To Build An Etcher

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Jan 25, 2012
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I tried to gather all the parts needed for Chris Crawfords etcher plans, but I can't find the part "Heavy Duty Chassis Mount Transformer with Leads" anywhere. Very frustrating. It seems this part is no longer available. I'm not an electric guy, but is there a substitute for this part?
 
I used a model train power pack .. got them off ebay for ~10.00 with shipping. it has both the AC and DC outputs needed to etch. (mine measured 16VDC, 16VAC)

works fantastic and much easier (IMHO)
 
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Alright, I'll be damned if that isn't an elegant solution! Yes, it gives both AC/DC, of more than adequate amperage. I'd prefer to have it switched, but separate connectors isn't the biggest problem in the world when it comes to etching. Alligator clips should make connection/disconnection quick and easy.

Here's what he's talking about:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-N-Gau...253643?hash=item3d169adfcb:g:KloAAOSwjwlXBI39

I just used a DPDT switch.. (DC ON - off - AC ON) one set of wires from banana terminals to my working wires..

xcK1aC5.jpg

T1jO1bO.jpg
 
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I just used a DPDT switch.. (DC ON - off - AC ON) one set of wires from banana terminals to my working wires..

xcK1aC5.jpg

T1jO1bO.jpg


Using the power pack for the train is there anything else you would need? I have switches and enclosures, besides some leads it seems like this would do the job on its own.
 
No, the powerpack from the train is an elegant solution, providing both the AC/DC in a clean package at a price that you can't really beat.
 
Using the power pack for the train is there anything else you would need? I have switches and enclosures, besides some leads it seems like this would do the job on its own.

don't really 'need' to build enclosure with switch and leads.. you could just wire into the dual AC/DC out puts on the power pack... That being said, putting a DPDT switch and having one set of leads to the wand/blade is really clean and easy.

16V is a little on the 'hot' side so make sure you test on some scrap to work out for yourself how long to keep the wand on the stencil. For my setup/stencils I am doing 4 rounds of "count to 3" for both DC and AC. (press wand to stencil, count to 3.. lift wand.... repeat 3 more times). It also probably matters what solution you are using and the steel you are etching. I ordered the 'blade kit' from IMG for electrolyte.
 
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don't really 'need' to build enclosure with switch and leads.. you could just wire into the dual AC/DC out puts on the power pack... That being said, putting a DPDT switch and having one set of leads to the wand/blade is really clean and easy.



16V is a little on the 'hot' side so make sure you test on some scrap to work out for yourself how long to keep the wand on the stencil. For my setup/stencils I am doing 4 rounds of "count to 3" for both DC and AC. (press wand to stencil, count to 3.. lift wand.... repeat 3 more times). It also probably matters what solution you are using and the steel you are etching. I ordered the 'blade kit' from IMG for electrolyte.

I have all the stuff to build a little switching box left over from building effects pedals, and probably enough stuff to build one from scratch (maybe not a rectifier on hand). I was looking at this thread and thinking I would try putting one together this weekend but this looks easier and I don't have much free time as is.

Thanks for the replies (everybody) I will get back with an update in a week or so!
 
But . . . a fully enclosed unit is pretty handy (and cool looking) since you can claim that "you made it". The key is the volt-amps (power) that is applied at between 12 - 16 volts which is most ideal for etching. As long as the power supply can provide the voltage without too much power . . . it doesn't matter what power supply is used. In the end, I believe a quality etching pad, appropriate electrolyte for the job, and proper power supply is critical. How this is achieved is up to the user.

I need to update my site to show easier places to obtain the materials for the Crawford etcher since Radio Shack is all but out of business.
 
A couple questions. Is a 12 volt transformer suitable for etching? Could I get electrocuted using a 12 volt/3 Amp transformer? Thanks.
 
But . . . a fully enclosed unit is pretty handy (and cool looking) since you can claim that "you made it". The key is the volt-amps (power) that is applied at between 12 - 16 volts which is most ideal for etching. As long as the power supply can provide the voltage without too much power . . . it doesn't matter what power supply is used. In the end, I believe a quality etching pad, appropriate electrolyte for the job, and proper power supply is critical. How this is achieved is up to the user.

I need to update my site to show easier places to obtain the materials for the Crawford etcher since Radio Shack is all but out of business.
I have a shop for working on whatever- cars, metal, tractors and recently knives, and a separate shop for guitar, amp and electronics. Was thinking of mounting it to the wall in the clean(ish) shop. I'm cool with not making it myself I've built enough stuff to know what my time is worth.
 
Just bought the train power supply today. All that's left is making a knife decent enough to warrant a maker's mark, designing one, and ordering stencils. Nothing like working backwards lol.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I have a shop for working on whatever- cars, metal, tractors and recently knives, and a separate shop for guitar, amp and electronics. Was thinking of mounting it to the wall in the clean(ish) shop. I'm cool with not making it myself I've built enough stuff to know what my time is worth.

Agreed. In your case, piece together what you have. The point I wanted to make was that after an appropriate power supply, the etching pad, electrolyte, and stencil have as much a part in a quality etch as the power supply.
 
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