Tuf-Cloth vs. Renaissance vs....

I have just started using TUF CLOTH after reading all the good things about it here on the forums and frankly, I am disappointed. It may protect from rust, but most of the knives I own are black TI and it makes the blade of them look grey when it dries. I had to put oil back on the blades afterwards to make them black again.
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David, Chief, Bernie et al,

TUF-CLOTH on Black TI- Numerous users and manufacturers have no color changes. According to manufacturers using Black TI and our products any perceived color change is the result of changing the reflectivity of the surface. Chief's approach is standard. TUF-CLOTH definitely enhances the corrosion resistance of Black TI. If appearance is the primary concern and rust protection second then simply wipe the edge of the blade only or use oil on top of TUF-CLOTH.

On questions of toxicity- I stand by my previous postings and add the following: This is a complex question. As a trained biologist my concept of toxicity may be more acute than most. Definition of toxic = "a chemical or mixture that may present an unreasonable risk of injury to health". This covers a lot of ground. Products such as toothpaste, mouth wash and other items which we use daily (alcohol included) are all potentially harmful if not used as intended or directed. With regards to items such as mouthwash there are ingredients which certainly are poisonous and the labels bear warnings to contact poison control centers etc. The amount of those poisonous materials we ingest is not considered toxic by the government and manufacturers yet they are indeed toxic and we keep using them. Unfortunately, the public assumes because we buy products in food markets we are not dealing with toxic materials. Much of what we deal with everyday is toxic; we just are not exposed to enough of the material to cause any problems.

Keep in context the intended use of our products and follow our instructions.

For those who are concerned with the potential toxicity of any of the products referred to in this thread you may want to visit these web sites http://www.epa.gov/ngispgm3/iris http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov I would hope to see some response from other manufacturers to address the potential toxicity of their products. Has anyone contacted any of those companies?

David- your comment on bonding- it is no accident that the TUF-CLOTH is an impregnated cloth. We found that in order to promote the type of bonding that was most effective, wiping the surface was key. This way a minimum of material is applied to the substrate and that is the best for dry film coatings. We do not claim that our products are permanent. In order to guarantee peak performance they should be used regularly.

Hopefully this answers the questions raised about Sentry Solutions' Products. As for the others I guess we'll see.


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Mark Mrozek, President
Sentry Solutions Ltd.
www.sentrysolutions.com
 
Back in 1537, Phillipus Areolius Theophrastus Bombastus Von Hoenheim (his friends called him Paracelcus) said, "What is not a poison? All things are poisons (and
nothing is without poison). The dose alone keeps a thing from being a poison."

Distilled water can kill you if you drink several gallons in a short time. As can salt if you eat a pound of it. There are all kinds of chemicals that are carcinogenic (when given to mice in large quantities) in our charbroiled steaks and our steamed broccoli.
 
I use Tuff-Cloth on my knives and on my carry hand guns. I have found that my daily carry gun is Very well protected. I have had no rust,and also no holster wear.The tuff cloth seems to protect the finish on metal as well
just my .02

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Chief,

I have an AFCK-M2 and a Pinnacle in Black-Ti, and use Tuf-Cloth or Tuf-Glide on them. I noticed that it gives it a kind of sheen that I wouldn't normally get from using regular oils alone.

What I do is use Tuf-Cloth, or apply Tuf-Glide on the blade, let it dry to a haze (Marine Tuf-Cloth will be hazier) then buff it with circular strokes first, using a cotton shirt (one I'm discarding anyway), and then finishing it off by buffing along the grind lines. I noticed that if you buff across the lines, it'll form a haze again.

But after I buff it, it looks a lot better than before. Oils are okay, but too messy for my taste, that's why I got Tuf-Glide for that.
smile.gif


Dan
 
This thread of protectants for knives sure has expanded. That is good though! It is all interesting stuff I think.

It has been about two and a half weeks since I started my little experiment. Actually, for the past two weeks I have been in Florida on some family business!

I was frankly very surprised at what I found! When you look at the picture, some of you may think it is upside down, as the UNTREATED section on the right has the least amount of surface rust.

I made up a quick web page with this experiment, including a photo from 6/7 (the first day) and one from today (6/24). If interested, it is at: http://www.bright.net/~wrs/steel_test/

Bill (aka "WRS")
 
Very interesting. WD-40 is in front, closely followed by UNTREATED. Now, where do I go to buy some UNTREATED to put on my knives?
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It would have been interesting to see how a thin coat of oil stood up against the others too. Maybe next time?
 
Bill, those sure are some interesting results. Could the surface of the treated materials be more conductive to trapping water on the steel and thus enhancing the corrosion. Was the surface that the bottom of the steel touched uniform? One thing that is odd is that there seems to be a clear progression from right to left (with the exception of WD-40) in terms of corrosion. Maybe there is an external factor causing this?


-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 25 June 1999).]
 
Cliff and all....
I know that the appearance of the metal is weird! I can't really explain it. The metal was placed outside actually sitting on top of an empty propane tank. The test metal is larger than the top of the propane tank, so the bottom (or any edge) does not contact anything. It is also sitting at a slight downward angle so water could run off (but obviously it doesn't seem to be doing that).

Bill

P.S. I wonder if I can market this "Untreated" stuff?!
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WRS:

Was this difference as obvious to the naked eye as it appears in the photo? From the reflection of the light it looks like the pitting is most noticable where the light reflects. Maybe this explains the apparant gradation from left to right. To my eye there also appears to be pitting on the untreated but the light does not seem to highlight them.

Also, there is some co-lateral rust between sections 1 & 2, can you tell which direction the rust travelled?

Do you have a photo from the other side for comparison?

Very interesting results?

Tom
 
Tom and all....
taking a picture of this metal was difficult. I took several pictures, but the ones without a flash showed the best with the least amount of reflection.

There is clearly a light brownish rust color on 1-4. It seems like larger blotches on 1 & 2. 3 & 4 have smaller rust blotches.

On 5 & 6, the metal is discolored a dark grey on several spots (blotches). Wierd. It is like a gray stain, and not really rust. Actually, the only obvious 2 brown rust spots are hidden under the "5" I put on the picture and near the bottom of 6!

The rust blotches on the line between 1 & 2 appears to me like a drop of water hit there, got into the scribed line between sections, and rusted right there. As I look at the metal, I can't really distinguish which way the drop may have rolled. As I mentioned before, the metal is sitting at a slight incline downward.

This experiment thus far, is going just the opposite of what I, and probably most people, would have expected.

Bill
 
Looks like a good 'ol Florida test is in order here. I will let you know the results and will try to include the all new White Lightning.

First impressions of Whilte Lightning leave me a bit miffed. It leaves a hazy film I don't like.

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Best Regards,
Mike Turber
BladeForums Site Owner and Administrator
Do it! Do it right! Do it right NOW!
www.wowinc.com

 
Mr. Turber,

Great...definitely nice to have environmental tests done in a similarly swamp-like place (I'm in Gainesville)

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JP Bullivant
 
Hummm.. I am a Seminole.. Maybe I should get out my Cold Steel spear and coat it with the Marine Tuf-Cloth and go Gator Gig'n
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Test results from the swamp!

Steve Spurrier and Bobby Bowden will judge the results
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Best Regards,
Mike Turber
BladeForums Site Owner and Administrator
Do it! Do it right! Do it right NOW!
www.wowinc.com

 


I have been reading this with a lot of interest as I know the rest of you have. It will take someone smarter than me to answer this,but I am wondering........

Would it be feasible for condensation to be forming under the protected areas and not being able to
evaporate,making a breeding ground for rust to develop even more rapidly?

I didn't reread the post where the individual products were listed,but it seems that WD-40 was next to the untreated area?
Perhaps the WD-40 disipates moisture instead of trapping it?
We used to use WD-40 in the lube systems of one particular type of machine that used air to operate some of its motions. It worked better than anything else we used at less expense. It also kept the corrosion and grundge that regular oil and water caused down to a minimum.

I am anxiously waiting for further developments too. The results are certainly not what I expected either.
Thanks for the test and the results Bill. The time you spent so far sure makes it worthwhile!

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®
 
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