Ugly Stik Catfish Combo - dilemma

plumberroy said:
Evil bay I like the bright colored ones . Less than $5 shipped If you notice the orange one has a line from a sharpie on it that is so I can tell if it has moved or if something is slowly moving off with the bait. I run 30 lb test for fresh water.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I got my first two today (6"), three more on the way (9"). I made sure to look for ones advertised as American made.

Interesting little device. Definitely a little of a learning curve when learning to cast with these things, at least for me. But then again, rod and reel had a learning curve too, long time ago. In any case, I spooled with some 12lb mono and cast some lures earlier today. I went out in 25 mph wind, figured the extra adversity would help a bit with the learning process. It's definitely doable, it's just a matter of coordination, similar to bowling in a way. As of now, I can cast about half the distance I can with rod and reel, for the same lure. I am very curious how the 9" reels work for me. Also, I wonder if 30 lb test will be a little more pleasant to handle, if nothing else easier to see in the wind. The moment I hook and land my first toothy bastard (Northern Pike) with this set-up, I will consider it 100% success. Good stuff. :D:D

PS nice bonus: a little extra exercise when retrieving those lures manually.
 
Okuma makes a bait runner style reel. It comes in a few different sizes. Believe I have the 50 size for my chunker. Even the bigger sizes can be found for $50.

Info on the reel:
http://www.okumafishing.com/product/view/reels/spinning-1/avenger-baitfeeder

Ugly stick is a decent rod if you will be chunking bait out. I only feel the need for a more sensitive rod when fishing a lore.

The fun with the bait feeder reel is you can chuck out bait to soak and then fish a lore with a second rod.

Best of luck to you and Tight Lines!! :thumbup:
 
I am an avid fisherman.
My advice to you is if you are going for pike and/or musky get a rod that can dual for both fishing bait and also solid casting ability. Many times the best techniques are for pike are casting lures, i.e. a large blade spinner bait with a 4" trailer or so. Those catfish combos are typically pretty garbage though ugly stick does make quality rods for the price. If i was searching for a cheap rod i would suggest you go with a heavy casting ugly stick rod which would be very suitable for your fishing style. The reel is very subjective to the person, just make sure the reel is smooth and it can hold at least 17lbs line (IMO). A good enough caster will be around $40 and can be found at major stores such as Scheels and BassPro which have been very good to me along with the occasional cabelas. Walmart can have its day sometimes but i try and stay away from their crap mostly. I would estimate for a competent enough reel you should factor in $30-$50. For example A good buddy of mine got a nice Flueger rod and reel setup this year for around $70 and he has caught many pike in the 30" area while I have been present.
Last thing to remember is that pike and musky are two of the hardest fighting sport fish we have in freshwaters, good line hand a quality strong rod will go along way, just don't get excessive like the catfish rods. The reel is really up to you as personal preference. Also, use a light steel leader. sometimes they inhale the bait, especially lures, and once you get it close to the boat there is little chance to land the fish if the line gets near the teeth.
GOOD LUCK!
MRuss
 
Hmmm. I have a Silstar ET60 spinning reel I bought 25 years ago, and maybe used it several times. I wonder if it will work with the 8" Quick Stik catfish rod? I got interested in the heavy rod because I always disliked how the Lite would bend under 1+ oz lures. So, perhaps I skipped a class. :D

Also, I always found the classification "spinning", "spincasting", and "baitcasting" a bit confusing. To me, they all throw out stuff out there for fish to bite/attack, and some are stiffer and heavier than others. As far as reels, it seems like a preference or what a person is used to, cranking above the rod or below the rod, right hand or left hand..

However, I always like a challenge, so my next project is to hook something larger than a minnow on a handline, Cuban style.

yoyofish2.jpg
 
After loosing several big fish due to cheap equipment, I bought a Quantum Iron bait casting reel ($150) and had a custom rod made ($125) and haven't had a problem since. My rod is based on a St. Croix blank. That is my 'heavy' set up I use for big river cats and salt water when I go on vacation. I have also used this set up for snagging Asian carp and Spoonbill/Sturgeon (changing to a snagging rod).
It is best to invest in a good reel first. Buy a good one and it will last. No rod will last forever, but a good rod will help you feel (and catch) more fish.
If you are interested in a custom rod I can refer you to Soggy Bottom Outdoors in Malvern, Oh. Clint's work is fantastic.

Good luck
 
I would stick to the type of reel you are most comfortable with. For me, that's an open faced spinning reel.

Combos. I haven't bought a combo since I was a kid and don't intend to unless it is for a starter rod for a kid.

I would think in terms of about $100-$150 for the rod and reel combination that you choose to be practical. Folks at the places like Cabelas, Bass Pro, or Gander would be more than happy to assist you in choosing.

A 7 foot rod is a bit long for me in general (unless it's a fly rod). My longest is 6.5' and it feels really long. But in open water, the longer rod allows you to cast a bit further, usually a heavier action rod (for heavier fish), and may help you when working around underwater obstructions.

My first spinning rod was a fiberglass combo rod with a Zebco 202 reel. Can't remember, but I probably purchased a couple of those reels before I was 10 years old. We spent a great deal of time at the "crick". My first better rod was also 5.5' fiberglass with a Mitchell 308 reel. When graphite rods started to become the standard, I purchased a Fish Eagle Ultra Light rod from Cabelas rigged with either the Mitchell 308 or 408 reel (for trout and smaller fish in general). Had a couple of those until they stopped making that particular rod model with the cork Tennessee handle and I liked them. At the time, they ran about $50 which I considered to be really expensive. That was a weeks pay for me to give you perspective at the time. Breaking a rod or reel was a huge deal. Huge. Seldom broke rods, but I broke or wore out reels on a regular basis.
 
As a curiosity I was looking at some rods today (not combos, but individual rods) at Fleet Farm. Pretty good selection (in my opinion), prices from 20+ bucks to 180+ bucks. Most of them said "China", and on few of them I could not find the country of origin.

That reason alone seems at times good enough to abandon the rod and reel. At least the Cuban yo yos are made in the USA. :D

PS I don't really blame the supply, but the demand, i.e. cheap bastards like myself. Greed thrives at all socioeconomic levels.

I enjoyed Edward Chang's comment, the one with all the pics:

https://www.quora.com/Why-are-Chinese-products-of-such-low-quality
 
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If you are going to be throwing lures for any period of time you'll really appreciate a lighter rod than an Ugly Stick.
If you are dunking bait and the rod is in a holder weight doesn't make a difference at all.

Spinning vs casting?
Spinning is easier for fishing, casting is the better tool for bring fish in.
The revolving spool casting reel is a more efficient winch. You can also add additional drag with your thumb without repositioning your hand to cup the spool on a spinning reel.
Spinning is easier to learn. Casts well and excels at casting very light weights. Spinning rods are no longer the buggy whips of old. The are made with some serious backbone nowadays.
I'm still a casting reel fan though. I don't fish UL, all LMB and SMB fishing is with casting reels (80's Shimanos and all years of Abus).
Besides being a more efficient winch, casting reels, once mastered are much more accurate casters. You can pitch, flip and cast. When I was fishing 3-5 times a week I could flip a jig into a coffee can at 20' or so 9 out of 10 times.
The downside is the casting learning curve. But well worth it in the long run.

I'm a big fan of Berkley Lightning rods. Affordable quality. I really like the Berkley Shock Lightning rods that are made for braid. Really affordable and have a great med/slow action with plenty of backbone.

I think the rods go for around $30-40 at Tackle Warehouse

Only use spinning on the beach with my 9' and 10 1/2' rods. Its nice to use different muscle groups so I mix it up with my 9' casting rod.
Lure wts 1/2-1 1/2 oz 9' Tica Dolphin rated 1/2 - 3 with a Penn SSV 4500 20lb braid
1-3 oz Penn Guide series rod rated 1-4 with an Abu 6600 30lb braid
2-4 oz St Croix Mojo rated 3/4-4 oz with a Shimano Spheros 6000FA 30lb braid.
Granted the surf rods are more pricey than the freshwater stuff, but it is all well made, lightweight gear that excels in a harsh environment.

Check out those Shock rods you may like them. I do.

Muscled this one out of some thick lilies with the heavy casting version :)
 
Very nice response, thank you.

I wonder if some of that baitcasting learning curve could be shaved off by using a left-handed reel? My "philosophy" is that the dominant hand (right in my case) does the fighting, i.e. handles the rod, while the non-dominant reels the line in. I noticed that the baitcasting rods/reels seem to outnumber the spinning stuff significantly...until you visit European countries.
 
Personally, I tried a leftie reel and went back to the standard way.
I want my "smart thumb" on the "good hand" to be the one that is controlling the reel.
Feathering the spool to prevent backlashes on the cast.
Also casting with my strong hand for accuracy.
Yes you can do that with a leftie reel.
But!
If you are like most people, you will find you have a much better grip if you "palm" the reel.
Fighting fish and cranking in general isn't all that comfortable using the same grip you cast with.
I'll have the trigger between my ring and middle finger of my left hand. The reel body is in the palm of my hand with my thumb on top of the reel.
If I'm going to switch hands to palm the reel, I figure I'll just use the easy to find standard configuration.

The learning curve is more about the actual cast and preventing overruns aka backlash and bird's nest.
You don't really let your thumb off the spool, you just feather it on and off... One of those practice things.
Don't "pop" the rod like you do a spinning rod either... a smooth transition from backward to forward get the reel spool spinning properly.

Most folks make the mistake of trying to learn with too light a lure weight. You don't get the feel you need. Try a half ounce instead of a quarter ounce and forget an eighth ounce. You will progress quicker.

Hope this helps :D
 
DB731 said:
I wonder if some of that baitcasting learning curve could be shaved off by using a left-handed reel?
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That's exactly what I did. There aren't as many models to choose from though, and you can't just switch the handle around like on a spinning reel.

My "philosophy" is that the dominant hand (right in my case) does the fighting, i.e. handles the rod, while the non-dominant reels the line in.
Click to expand...
The standard method seems to be casting and reeling with the dominant hand, which requires switching hands after the cast.

I noticed that the baitcasting rods/reels seem to outnumber the spinning stuff significantly...until you visit European countries.
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I haven't noticed that at all around here. Maybe because we have smaller fish and smaller bodies of water? Spinning reels are the most common, followed by cheap spin-casting reels, followed by fly fishing.
 
DB731 said:
Very nice response, thank you.

I wonder if some of that baitcasting learning curve could be shaved off by using a left-handed reel? My "philosophy" is that the dominant hand (right in my case) does the fighting, i.e. handles the rod, while the non-dominant reels the line in. I noticed that the baitcasting rods/reels seem to outnumber the spinning stuff significantly...until you visit European countries.
Click to expand...
I think the euro difference is because of the species of fish caught and their habitat. Fishing for 'Roach' with casting gear would be like tilling your garden with a D9 Caterpillar...

:D
 
Well, they probably don't have supersized toothy bastards over there..

Dammit, I wanna hook one of these on a handline. 10 fingers is 1 too many. :D

[video=youtube;xUVf0N4XuAM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUVf0N4XuAM[/video]
 
I would settle for this one though.

[video=youtube;03Nhhusca-4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Nhhusca-4[/video]
 
btw, about half an hour ago I snagged my very first pike on a handline*


I wish all rods had guides like this one:

combo_avet_50trx_crowder_su6056.jpg
 
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DB731


[Well, they probably don't have supersized toothy bastards over there..]
Out of the 100 largest pike caught in the world 99 were caught in Europe.Do a search on the largest catfish you might be surprised.
 
I like what this guy is doing:

[video=youtube;Hdtprg-737k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hdtprg-737k[/video]
 
Get yourself an Ugly Stick surf rod, then, from the big auction site a Mitchell 302 or 402. About the only thing that breaks on the old Mitchell reels is the bail spring (still available and cheap to buy).
Forget braided lines. The "line roller" might make one to one point five revolutions every fifty or so years. There was a reason Mitchell made that part out of Carbide. If you must use a braided line, get a PUM (manual line pick up) conversion kit.
As an alternative, an Ugly Stick and a Mitchell 300 reel is good. The. 300 (a "medium duty freshwater" reel) has landed 6 foot sand sharks and lemon sharks in the shallows - and the reel survived the encounter.

Yes, the Mitchells are old. No one knows how long it takes to wear one out though, it is more than 65 years, is all I can tell you.
 
afishhunter said:
Get yourself an Ugly Stick surf rod, then, from the big auction site a Mitchell 302 or 402. About the only thing that breaks on the old Mitchell reels is the bail spring (still available and cheap to buy).
Forget braided lines. The "line roller" might make one to one point five revolutions every fifty or so years. There was a reason Mitchell made that part out of Carbide. If you must use a braided line, get a PUM (manual line pick up) conversion kit.
As an alternative, an Ugly Stick and a Mitchell 300 reel is good. The. 300 (a "medium duty freshwater" reel) has landed 6 foot sand sharks and lemon sharks in the shallows - and the reel survived the encounter.

Yes, the Mitchells are old. No one knows how long it takes to wear one out though, it is more than 65 years, is all I can tell you.
Click to expand...

I just looked at a box with some old reels that I bought in thrift stores. I do have a Mitchell 300 (Made in France), in its box and as far as I can tell, it runs OK. I paid a whopping $2 for it couple years ago.

btw, where do you buy those springs for old reels? So it's not complicated like finding parts for old cars?
 
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