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Ultra rare INFI MORA!!!

I've heard that the traditional test for a Mora was to hammer it into a standing tree and then stand on the handle so that it's supporting all your weight.
I think you just found a test for the 21st century.
Great post mis:thumbup:
 
misanthropist,

Excellent! I will not look anymore at my Moras in the same way. What you forgot to say is that you are skilful enough to use the proper technique.

dantzk.
 
misanthropist said:
1. A chunk of tempered steel is way stronger than most people think, and the whole "my knife has to be a half inch thick because I pry boulders apart" thing is completely unrealistic and is perpetuated by people who don't use knives enough to know what the will do and what they won't do. (unlikely)
Click to expand...



Sorry bro, but I don't figure that Mora is infi.
 
Awesome thread! :D :thumbup:

People often look at Moras the wrong way, in my humble opinion.

Moras are designed and intended to be beater knives, tools for everyone from soccer moms cutting carrots to construction workers that will with absolute certainty beat the shit out of their Moras with hammers and use them as screwdrivers. They're designed to be cheap, disposable and effective. They will cut well, sharpen easily, and will take a lot more beating than some prettier "collectible Scandis". They are tough, compared to many other knives of their size - but compared to many other Scandis of similar size, they also cut poorly. But to get to my point, Moras are in no way bad knives. They're actually fantastic for the price, and I would rather pay even 50 $ for a Mora than 5 $ for most of the modern day tacticals, folders in particular. :D But Moras aren't reliable in quality or performance - you buy two Moras, you'll get one that batons through the gates of Hell with a war axe without losing the edge, and one that will chip on paper and fracture when you show it a piece of wood, to exaggerate a little bit.
 
It's ALL WRONG!

You used the wrong knife! Please repeat your work using a $300-400 knife so we all can be suitable impressed. ;)
 
Thank you so much for this post. It is bookmarked for future reference.

Of course I would rather spend a little more on a nice Scandi, but I will bring up this post every time someone claims they need a 1/2" thick blade to make hotdog sticks.
 
a good chunk of hi carbon does wonders tho , roofing iron was often split by hammering ( batoning with hammer ) a knife the length of the sheet .

We did it with an old kitchen knife a few times , the knife was still OK , if a bit hammer marked and scrtched up for the experience .

roofing iron tears across the sheet , but not along the sheet , its got to be cut .

why I mention this , is that I have found a number of old blades now ( I get inspiration for making new knives from looking at old ones ) when metal detecting aroun old townsites and homesteads / outbuildings that have been hammered on the spine , and are graunched up on the edges , some I have rehandled and reground an edge on , others I just left , too badly corroded to do anything with much .

hammering knifes thru lead flashing and roofing iron was once the normal thing to do it seems , in the more remote outback areas anyway , just not a knife you were intending to use straight away after for anythng much .
 
myal, i have a large butcher knife i got at a local antique place for a couple of bucks, and the spine is clearly beat with a hammer, i was guessing to split kindling but i suppose it could have been used for splitting up metal sheets.

the edge had been redone on a bench grinder some time ago, so i can't speak to that.

i still use it to split kindling.
 
shecky said:
Yeah, but lead is pretty soft stuff. Softer than lots of woods. You could probably scrape some away with your fingernails. This result isn't all that surprising to me.
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Lead is definitely a soft metal...but you couldn't scrape it with your fingernails. You can get a little bit of oxide residue off with your fingernails, though.
 
Depends on the amount of tin mixed in with the lead. Pure lead is very soft and is used for pellets and traditional plack powder bullets. However, lead used in piping is not pure lead, and will have other elements mixed in with it to make it harder....
I have cast some lead bullets and sinkers that were extremely hard and if you doubt it, I will be happy to send you some examples of what can be done with a lead alloy...
 
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..... He had me with the title for a second.... Hey man, great knife, never had a Mora but now I'm thinking about picking one up.
 
misanthropist said:
1. A chunk of tempered steel is way stronger than most people think, and the whole "my knife has to be a half inch thick because I pry boulders apart" thing is completely unrealistic and is perpetuated by people who don't use knives enough to know what the will do and what they won't do. (unlikely)
Click to expand...


I love it!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Between 30 and 40 years ago I used to be one of the thick bladed sharpened pry bar guys. Anything less than a Randall 14 was a pcket knife in my book. But thinkgs change.

Maybe age and getting a bit lazy in old age makes one want to carry less, so I started cutting back on the amount and weight of my gear, including knives. I got my first mora in 1975, and to my surprise, it did everything I had to do in the outdoors on a real world camping/backpacking trip. No prying apart boulders, chopping down trees for lumbering operations.

Great post misanthropist. A refreshing look at a real world knife.
 
charlieridge said:
Depends on the amount of tin mixed in with the lead. Pure lead is very soft and is used for pellets and traditional plack powder bullets. However, lead used in piping is not pure lead, and will have other elements mixed in with it to make it harder....
I have cast some lead bullets and sinkers that were extremely hard and if you doubt it, I will be happy to send you some examples of what can be done with a lead alloy...
Click to expand...


Right - I guess I should have said "this piece of lead alloy is too hard for that." Pure lead probably is soft enough to do that. This stuff was pretty had (for lead.)

I don't have enough experience alloying lead to tell you just how hard it can get but this was like soft aluminum.
 
...but it doesn't have "woola goola" grooves in the blade so that the molecules are properly aligned when I'm cutting through rods of depleted uranium!...and it isn't made out of XV426 Illadrium steel alloy....how could it POSSIBLY do this without fracturing into a gazillion little fragments!!!!!:eek:

Yeah...I know....I'm being facetious (don't ya just love that word?!?) again!!!!:D

Ron
 
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