As far as the blade is concerned, it has a symmetrical bevel (the schematic above looks like a symmetrical bevel despite being the edge of a chisel-ground planer-blade), the asymmetry is in the "angle of approach", i.e. clearance vs cutting. Resistance from the material being cut will try to force both of these angles to zero - either force the blade flatter so it slips out of the cut or force it more vertical so it cuts deeper and wedges, trying to establish equilibrium of pressure on each bevel face.
That is what I referring to, wouldn't that cause the tool, be it a planer, knife, axe, or any edged object to favor one side of the material being cut? Caused directly by the fact that one side of the blade is experiencing more pressure compared to the other. Which is why one has to put pressure towards the chisel ground face of kitchen knife while slicing a tomato to get a straight slice. As stated below:
In the diagram below, the wood being planed off is trying to close the clearance-angle via pressure against the top face of the blade while the the lower face is lifted off the surface of the material in the clearance angle:
http://planetuning.infillplane.com/index.html
If you look at a chainsaw tooth, you'll note that the chisel is oriented such that the flat-bevel (back) is oriented with a 10-15 degrees clearance angle to keep it off the surface of the medium and give it a specific depth of penetration regulated by the forward gauge. The clearance angle is a necessity.
While the depth is controlled by the front guide tooth, one can buy a more aggressive chain if the motor has the power to pull it, in NJ when cutting pine, we will often go with an Oregon co. chain due to the more aggressive cut in softer wood compared to a chisel ground Stihl co.
See the following for chainsaw tooth type info:
three basic configurations exist.
Full chisel chain has a square cornered tooth, splitting wood fibers easily in the cut for fast, efficient cutting in clean softwood.
Semi-chisel chain has a rounded working corner formed by a radius between the top and side plates. While slower than full chisel in softwood, it retains an acceptable cutting sharpness longer, making it the preferred choice for dirtier wood, hard or dry wood, frozen wood or stump work, all of which would rapidly degrade full chisel chain. "
Chamfer chisel" chains by Oregon are similar to semi-chisel design but have a small 45 degree chamfer between the plates rather than a radius. Performance is similar to good semi-chisel.
With all of that being said, while the angle of the flat edge would only be important in so far as the amount of steel reinforcing the edge, considering that the effect it has on the depth of the cut is negligible although it does have some.
fwiw: The type you are referring to is the chisel ground.
If you chop perpendicular (via spine center-line) to a surface using an edge that is asymmetrical, resistance/wedging-pressure will be different on each side as the material struggles to equalize the two by changing the angle of the cut or bending/cracking the edge itself, but using a blade with sufficient material support to resist such stress will make it hard for a user to see an difference in durability between, for example, an edge that is 30-degrees inclusive and asymmetrical vs symmetrical.
As to whether it would be noticeable for the user of the bladed tool, that is entirely circumstantial, based upon what is being cut and the force being exerted.
If someone is using an asymmetrical edged machete to cut tall grass and the blade is pulled down into a stone, hits a stump or experiences anything that the edge was not intended to hit and therefore not prepared for such, it will likely incur
more damage than a symmetrical edge of the same inclusiveness solely based upon the load and shock being dispersed throughout the blade more evenly.
Regarding chainsaws, I used to be a climber for a few tree companies throughout my 20s. Though my experience isn't in the engineering end of the spectrum, I am willing to bank on what I have personally witnessed and experienced while using saws of different sizes and types.
but the design is intended to be fat, so the simplest fix is the best - follow Spey's advice and use the primary-bevels as the guide, then simply grind until the bevel-heights match.
