Unusual Hudson Bay head ID

FortyTwoBlades said:
My point was that a rolled edge is not necessarily a sign that a particular axe is "too soft". Depending on the steel and heat treatment it's possible for you to have to axes of equal hardness and, when subjected to the same strain, to have one chip and the other roll. Now, given Council is known for being on the soft side, he's probably right in this case that his axe is relatively soft. I'm simply saying that I'd rather have a given steel heat treated in such a way that it's at the threshold of what will roll rather than chip rather than crossing over that line. Brittleness is never a desirable quality in a swung tool. Hardness and brittleness may be linked, but it's not a strict 1:1 relationship.



That's certainly not a strong high centerline but it's clearly not flat either. Flat means flat, yeah? ;)
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It sounds good but axes are made from relatively simple steels. Your theory doesn't hold water in actual practice. Show me a axe that will roll an edge and I will show you one that won't hold an edge and takes damage to easily.

My dubious statement about high center lines no longer warrants further discussion...
 
The method of heat treatment can affect grain size significantly. You can have tools of equal hardness but one with large grain will be far more prone to fracturing than one with fine grain.
 
Square_peg said:
Even that amount convexness will help. It will be much easier to unstick than a truly flat-cheeked axe. But better is that Plumb that Woodcraft posted. Better not to stick in the first place.
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I agree. And a minimal convexity combined with properly done bevels and bit will work quite well. I am thinking Kelly perfect on this statement. But this ain't it.
 
My personal Classic Jersey. I've not done any work to the cheeks to enhance the high centerline--this is how it was from the factory. All I did was thin the edge and blend it in.

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Measured directly at the line running between the heel and toe of the bit there's about a full 1/8" of altitude from the edges of the cheeks. For a modern axe that's pretty decent, and while far from the most extreme of vintage examples, it's also far from the flattest.
 
Check that council farther back on the cheeks , My 1950's Collins homestead Michigan is similar at the bit ( maybe a little better ) but is much higher down the cheeks.
This when I had it hung and was using it kept it for being too thick at the bit but still have enough convex to help during splitting.
 
SC T100 said:
Now the next question...does the El Lobo have a high centerline, too? I'm genuinely curious.
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That is a good question. I'd be surprised if it did, though. Pretty sure these were really more of a marketing gimmick than anything else, and from what I've heard they actually didn't even sell well enough at the time to recoup the tooling cost. :p
 
Hickory n steel said:
Check that council farther back on the cheeks , My 1950's Collins homestead Michigan is similar at the bit ( maybe a little better ) but is much higher down the cheeks.
This when I had it hung and was using it kept it for being too thick at the bit but still have enough convex to help during splitting.
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It's actually flatter near the bevels. I was being nice when I snapped they photo closer to the bit.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Measured directly at the line running between the heel and toe of the bit there's about a full 1/8" of altitude from the edges of the cheeks. For a modern axe that's pretty decent, and while far from the most extreme of vintage examples, it's also far from the flattest.
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I see in no way how that could fit the description "strong high centerline". High centerline is technically correct.
 
Me two. At the fact that people who know better do not have the intestinal fortitude to call people out who claim that a bit heavy Jersey with an 1/8th of daylight at the corners of the bit an ax with "perfect balance" and a "strong high centerline".
 
Square_peg said:
I think El Lobo was just ahead of its time. Something like that would totally sell today.
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Every hipster and tin horn in town would want one but only if offered at big $$ via Best Made or other upscale profiteer/marketer and not Wally World, Harbor Freight or Princess Auto.
 
300Six said:
Every hipster and tin horn in town would want one but only if offered at big $$ via Best Made or other upscale profiteer/marketer and not Wally World, Harbor Freight or Princess Auto.
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I think it would be less the hipster crowd that would go for it and more like the hunters, campers, mudders, etc. Rougher and rowdier folk. Cabela's and Bass Pro would sell them by the barrel.
 
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