* Update Mini-forge got a big upgrade pg 3*. Recipe for diaster , mini forge , 1095 .

You don't have to toss the forge...
Line it with some Insulwool and then coat that with some satanite, you will be amazed!
Be sure to leave a hole for the torch. Would recommend placing a pipe in the hole into the forge and placing the torch end in it with a small screw to stabilize it. Last thing you want is a "Live" torch wiggling out of the forge.
Try some practice runs edge quenching W/O heating the blade to get a feel for it.
McMaster Carr 11sec oil is what I use for 1095 and all my Carbon Steel Works great and cheaper than Canola oil
 
I used a bit from my truck to drill my brick forge out. A hole saw would work too...but it might bust the brick. After I clamped the bricks it took maybe fifteen seconds to drill it. Bring the burner hole into the forge on a tangent, like a 6 on it's side. I personally think maybe you should consider either getting a thermocouple, or setting aside the 1095 and sticking with the 1084....
If it's a Hamon you're lusting for, maybe settle for a quench line on 1084 till you upgrade your setup.
To me, it goes back to your "when are you ready to sell" thread. To me, heat treat is a Huge part of the art/craft/science that makes custom knives special. Always strive for your best. If you can't do the best, then slow down and regroup. I love your enthusiasm and think you'll do well!
I apologize if this is out of line. Not trying to be rude, just constructive. BTW, You can get a thermocouple for cheap.... Then you're on the road to Hamon Heaven!
Stacy has links to Auberin PID,Thermocouple, etc on his PID controlled forge sticky.
 
I did the file test , brass bar test and it passed , so I think I have a good heat treated blade. Now just to sand and finish it.
 
Hankins said:
You don't have to toss the forge...
Line it with some Insulwool and then coat that with some satanite, you will be amazed!
Be sure to leave a hole for the torch. Would recommend placing a pipe in the hole into the forge and placing the torch end in it with a small screw to stabilize it. Last thing you want is a "Live" torch wiggling out of the forge.
Try some practice runs edge quenching W/O heating the blade to get a feel for it.
McMaster Carr 11sec oil is what I use for 1095 and all my Carbon Steel Works great and cheaper than Canola oil
Click to expand...


Does anyone know where to buy this or similar in Canada, Edmonton preferably?
 
duffy99 said:
Does anyone know where to buy this or similar in Canada, Edmonton preferably?
Click to expand...

On the first page of this topic, I provided you a link.... Call the ceramic place and they will either have it, or direct you to where you can get it. That's what I did here where I live...That is for Inswool and refractory cement. Try McMaster Carr for ordering the quench oil. Count or someone should no better about Canadian sources for Quench
 
fluidsteel said:
On the first page of this topic, I provided you a link.... Call the ceramic place and they will either have it, or direct you to where you can get it. That's what I did here where I live...That is for Inswool and refractory cement. Try McMaster Carr for ordering the quench oil.

Count or someone should no better about Canadian sources for Quench
Click to expand...


Houghton products are available in Canada by the 5 gallon pail

K is the fast oil similar to Parks 50 - for 1095

G is similar to Parks AAA slower for higher alloyed steels.



CANADA
Houghton Canada Inc.
100 Symes Road
Toronto M6P 3J5, Ont.
(416) 763-4691



I don't know if K will do a hamon as well as Parks 50
Anyone that is good at a Hamon is already using 50 and doesn't need to switch
- although I would be interested if someone with hamon skills would be willing to test some Houghton K for me.
 
fluidsteel said:
On the first page of this topic, I provided you a link.... Call the ceramic place and they will either have it, or direct you to where you can get it. That's what I did here where I live...That is for Inswool and refractory cement. Try McMaster Carr for ordering the quench oil. Count or someone should no better about Canadian sources for Quench
Click to expand...

I phoned them and they didn't know sh@t about refractory cement , let alone quenching oils . The other place where I bought the insulated fire brick is closed for 2 weeks starting yesterday. I bought Imperial Hi-Temp Stove & Furnace Cement ( resists up to 2700f ) today from Canadian Tire and slathered my forge inside and out with it . I also bought a bunch of black steel couplers. 90 degree joint, reducer things to upgrade my fuel intake system and a possible air blower option too ( when I buy a travel hair drier ) . I'll post a pick when I put the puzzle together and the cement is dry of the "upgraded " forge.

Now if I could just get a nice close to mirror finish with the craftsman I'll be happy. I have gator's up to 600 but the 600's are worn out . I have green buffing compound and tried it on the worn 600 gator, then took a new 600 klingspor AO and tried to dull it quickly. I took a hardened scrap knife to it aggressively, then a old file and it split in have but was still shooting sparks then I realized I have a 1x42 leather belt but the finish has to be redone from 220 before I can try it out with a small amount of the green. I also have 5,10,15 micron 9" discs, one of each that I was thinking about trying on the disc sander but I don't wanna wear them out on a not perfect , first try 1095 knife that may or may not be hardened . Any thoughts on getting a mirror finish with this stuff for the future, I might have a little red buff in a Dremel kit and I have white and pink coming with an order? Or should I just do it by hand like I've done in the past with success and many,many hours?

I'm friggin' finishing this knife off today , was supposed to be done last night before I started pissing around trying to destroy a belt. I did find out today that the 1095 and 1084 I have is from Aldo via Rob at knifemaker.ca . He told me he brings it up 1,000 lbs at a time , so if any canucks want Aldo carbon steels Rob's got it.
 
Well Kudos to Alliance Refractory Ltd in Edmonton, I emailed them about quenching oil and refractory cement. They didn't know anything about oil but said they sell cement in 55lb pails . I told them I only needed a little and I was a vet and they told me to come by and they'd give me a small amount because they know it's hard to get small amounts of cement and wool. I showed up and got a 40lb pail of 3000f cement and about 25 ft of wool for free. So I slathered the mini forge down again, still working on a better fuel/air delivery system. If anyone in Edmonton or near by wants a few lbs of refractory cement or some wool let me know and I'll hook you up.I did the handles about 90% done so the knife should be done tomorrow and I'll post a pic of the finished blade.Still trying to find quenching oil locally. The best I've found is a place in Surrey ,B.C that sells Houghton quenching oil. Bit of a trip for a flammable substance so not sure if I can get it shipped or the price, will call and ask today. I know there has to be some in Edmonton.





 
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I was about to buy some 1095 too, until I read this. I am new to knifemaking so should I buy the 1084 instead? What's the main HT difference between the two steels? I was about to make a knife out of a file but am just going to buy some 1084 instead.
 
swamp said:
I was about to buy some 1095 too, until I read this. I am new to knifemaking so should I buy the 1084 instead? What's the main HT difference between the two steels? I was about to make a knife out of a file but am just going to buy some 1084 instead.
Click to expand...

Yes use 1084

.8% Carbon in steel in the "eutectoid"

Hyper means more
Hypo means less

So 1080 1084 etc is eutectoid
1095 is Hypereutectoid

1095 needs much more carefully controlled temperature and faster quench than 1084
1084 is suited for a beginners backyard heat treat, 1095 is not.

Well explained here.


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types.
 
Thanks 12345678910. I have a lot to study it looks like. I'm buying from Bruno a couple 3/16" by 1 1/4" By 48"
 
Any canucks know of quenching oil sources in Alberta? Also for the fuel air intake will it be an issue to have the nozzle back farther from the hole , past a 90 degree bend . The t-junction is supposed to be fuel on one side farther away and the air on the other side of the t. Should the mapp tip be as close as possible like 1 inch away from the hole or am I alright with it farther back. Should I ignite at the hole into the forge or farther back . I don't want to make a pipe bomb here.
 
I'm going to meet a professional blacksmith that lives in Edmonton for a shop tour hopefully next week. His name is Shawn Cunningham and he makes a living doing decorative stuff but on the side makes swords and knives and medieval weapons for fun . Can't wait , he teaches Blacksmith classes at NAIT the technical college in northern Alberta and he knows his stuff. Here is a link to his website : www.frontstepforge.com it should be a great learning experience. Any advice on the post above? I just got a lead on some quenching oil in the city , I'm going to stop by this afternoon and see if I can get a few liters . It's called Houghton Aqua Quench 3699 and I think it's 6 or 11 second oil.
 
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Well the knife is pretty much done , this is my first completed blade using a belt grinder, first completed that I heat treated and my third knife from start to finish. I just have to touch up some spots and take it back down to a nice satin finish.









I made a lot of mistakes with this knife , tried a quick set epoxy for the first time and loveless bolts and just made obvious mistakes that I'll learn from for the next knife. Now to sort out that forge.
 
Just bought 12' of 1084 high carbon steel. I need to get some micarta and other stuff. Hope mine looks as good as yours. I accidentally ordered 1/8 by 1x 48 inch lenghts, so I't looks like I will be making pukkos for a while :)
 
Nicely done buddy!

Is that G-10 or micarta on the handle? How did you go about getting that finish on it?
 
It's black linen micarta , I formed the shape with a 50 grit AO , then refined it with a 400 AO. After I hand sanded shoe shine style with 400 wet/dry in long strips , then the same with 600. After that I soaked it in wd-40 , washed it off with soapy water and applied tung oil liberally . There is some glue gaps from using 5 minute epoxy that I'll be fixing with krazy glue and sanding and the loveless bolts have tiny gaps between the nut and bolt that I'm going to make flush . That and I have to peen the thong hole somehow , I don't have a countersink the closest thing is step bits or ram something else in there to widen it. Once I do the satin finish and it's as best as I can get it I'll probably post it in the gallery, or a WIP thread from paper design to finished knife in 6 pics or something. Still waiting on my stencil and a bunch of thin ass g-10 for liners from AKS . I have 2 more hunters to make that I've promised to friends I'm not sure if I should stick with this design or make something new . The handle shape strangely conforms to the top wheel on the 2x42 :rolleyes:. The next 2 knives will be 1084 just because I know I can HT it better . I'm getting 6-10 liters of Aqua Quench HU 3699 from a local metal treating place for free on Monday . I just have to bring my own containers so I'll be pounding back some juice today and tomorrow about 8 liters worth .
 
I went to a metal treatment place today and got 8 liters of Houghto Quench K for free. They also hardness tested my 1095 blade and it came out as 61 RC , so it all worked out . Super stoked on the new oil hopefully it'll do the job. Here is the specs of the oil is it good? http://www.qtstools.com/TechInfo/K.pdf
 
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