* Update Mini-forge got a big upgrade pg 3*. Recipe for diaster , mini forge , 1095 .

[duffy99]

Upgraded the mini-forge holy crap does it get hot! I still gotta tweak the fuel entry system as the hole is too big and when the blower is off it burns out of it which is bad , I'm going to file the hole to hold a pipe and put my burner end through it which should solve that problem . Also setup some more bricks better for closing the front when I want. I'm thinking of lengthening it with my other 2 soft firebricks so It'll be 2 1/2x3"x 16 . Or I can get a bucket and build a totally new one with ceramic wool lining which I might do down the road anyways but for now I think I can easily lengthen it and still have high temps . That and I gotta order a PID and thermocoupler ASAP. Also my pressure gauge doesn't seem to work . The gauge plastic is loose so I'll take it off and tighten it and maybe use less pipe tape and screw it in deeper or it's just broken . All the furnace cement chipped off the interior when I put i max power ? Any thoughts as to why , did it get over 2700f . Anyways with a little more work it'll be pretty good.

 

[duffy99]

I received a few emails asking how I set this up so I will fill in the details of what I did .

** THIS IS THE WAY I BUILT A MINI FORGE IT IS IN NO WAY THE BEST OR PROPER METHOD / I HAVE HEAT TREATED ONLY 2 KNIVES WITH THIS**

First I searched this site and others and looked at designs , this blog was the basis of the forge : http://www.woodsmonkey.com/index.ph...mini-forge&catid=41:how-to-articles&Itemid=63

I also researched parts and mini forges from this site :http://zoellerforge.com/simplegasforge.html

After following the tutorial I made a 2 insulated/soft firebrick forge , I wired it together and initially used just a MAPP torch with a hose wired 1" from the 3/4" hole in the side of the firebrick. Next I used 2700f furnace cement and slathered the outside and inside of the forge . I then acquired 40 lbs of 3000f refractory cement , fittings, hose , regulator and pressure gauge to run off of a bbq size propane tank. I wired and cemented in a 3/4" black pipe T which in retrospect should have been installed better and one end of the T has a plug and is useless. I drilled and filed a hole into the T to fit 1/2 black pipe then inserted a standard propane tip screwed onto the end of the hose so that it's inside the forge ( using a T with proper dimensions would have been much better) . The hose and 3/4 to 1/4 thread brass fitting is out of the pipe away from the heat. On the other end of the T is a 3/4 to 1" black pipe fitting , on that is a 1" 45 degree bend with a 6" long 1" black pipe.This has a hair dryer fitted to it via minute maid plastic bottle shrunk with a lighter and then teflon and electrical taped to seal.

The hose is connected to the propane tank via fittings with a valve to control fuel output, a pressure gauge and regulator then into the propane tank. All fittings thread were wrapped with gas teflon tape and the entire system was leak tested with soapy water before I lit it . It's far from perfect and I'm still working on some problems , pressure gauge needle doesn't move so either there isn't enough pressure after the regulator or it broken. Also I want a better burner then the standard pencil tip . I think the regulator type ( which was purchased brand new along with some other fittings ) is why I don't have high pressure . When lit without the hair dryer going it burns a low pressure flame ? When I turn on the hair dryer it puts out some serious heat . I think it's safe to use but has many flaws . I have 2 more soft fire bricks and 20 ft of ceramic wool and lots of refractory cement so I might extend it with the bricks . More likely I'm thinking of either finding a old air/ fuel cylinder and someone to cut it or buy a good 5 gallon metal pail and make a forge with that . After this next batch of knives I do I'm going to salvage what I can from this one and build something larger and proper with a PID and thermocoupler . Any comments and questions are welcome.