Vaughan 1/2 lbs. Sportsman Sub-Zero Hatchet: Available (for now)

After a several year hiatus,
How many years?

Charlie Vaughan, the owner, has informed me
Who are you?

don't tell my wife
Could you post a copy of your marriage certificate?

I'd be willing to bet that most folks who are interested have no idea that they are available again,
When were they unavailable?

so I thought that I spread the word
Did you signup and post the same on BushcraftUSA?
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check them out while you still can.
Looks like we can no longer check these out on BushcraftUSA:(:
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Bob
 
I'm also wondering how to best remove and replace the bit?

New to modding and looking for any pro tips you all would be willing to share.

Thanks guys.
 
What's the best method for stripping the powder coat? None of the mod threads seem to mention how to do it.
I used Kleen strip. Can get it at most any hardware store. Just be careful, it's pretty caustic stuff.
I'm also wondering how to best remove and replace the bit?

New to modding and looking for any pro tips you all would be willing to share.

Thanks guys.
I don't think they can be removed for replacement. That was done on heads that had a bit forge welded into a wrought iron* head. I'm pretty sure nobody makes axes like that anymore, and even if they did it would be hard to do without being a blacksmith.

When I said I was thinning mine, I just meant I was slowly knocking the primary bevels back (much like reprofiling a knife blade) through progressive sharpening sessions.

*Or whatever it is they used, I'm no axe expert...
 
I used Kleen strip. Can get it at most any hardware store. Just be careful, it's pretty caustic stuff.

I don't think they can be removed for replacement. That was done on heads that had a bit forge welded into a wrought iron* head. I'm pretty sure nobody makes axes like that anymore, and even if they did it would be hard to do without being a blacksmith.

When I said I was thinning mine, I just meant I was slowly knocking the primary bevels back (much like reprofiling a knife blade) through progressive sharpening sessions.

*Or whatever it is they used, I'm no axe expert...

Thanks for the information man. I'm glad there is a chemical and I don't have to sandblast it.

I ask about removing the bit because in many of the old posts about modding it, they start by saying to remove it. The primary purpose of this I think is to reshape/thin the handle and or stain it before reattaching the bit.

Your explanation about them not being removable is definitely helpful as while I was inspecting it I couldn't seem to find any way to do it without destroying the handle.
 
Thanks for the information man. I'm glad there is a chemical and I don't have to sandblast it.

I ask about removing the bit because in many of the old posts about modding it, they start by saying to remove it. The primary purpose of this I think is to reshape/thin the handle and or stain it before reattaching the bit.

Your explanation about them not being removable is definitely helpful as while I was inspecting it I couldn't seem to find any way to do it without destroying the handle.
They might have been talking about removing the whole head then... I can see why you'd want to do that to work on the handle. Other than a bit of sanding and a few coats of BLO I didn't do anything with mine.

Edit to add: I'm sure the guys who actually know a thing or 2 will be along eventually and set us straight...😁 Like I said, I'm no expert in the realm of axes
 
They might have been talking about removing the whole head then... I can see why you'd want to do that to work on the handle. Other than a bit of sanding and a few coats of BLO I didn't do anything with mine.

Edit to add: I'm sure the guys who actually know a thing or 2 will be along eventually and set us straight...😁 Like I said, I'm no expert in the realm of axes

Haha and I seem to have my axe terminology wrong as I thought bit and head were synonymous...

I'll probably just end up doing what you did. The handle already seems fine to me too, interested to hear how strong of an improvement thinning the handle would be though.
 
I have some Jasco stripper that I plan to try on my latest example when it arrives, I'll let everyone know how it goes.
I didn't have any before and just sanded it off the last 3 times, this time I want to use a chemical stripper to get a good before picture of the steels surface finish under the powder coat.
I always knock the handle out because It's easier to get all the powder coat off and refinish the entire head ( might blue this one ) , they need to be hung better , and the handles need some significant thinning and shaping.
The shape is there, but it needs to be thinned out appropriately, and the curves need to be exaggerated if you will.

The last time I did a new one was a pair in 2019, but I seem to remember being able to just knock the handles out with a punch.
You'll damage the top of the wood a little, but in hanging the head further down where it should be that damaged area will be trimmed off anyways.

Opinions will vary but I believe these handles should be much thinner overall and appropriate for the head size, as is they're about the thickness a handle for a 1lb head should be.
The vintage examples were about right, but the fawns foot was a little undersized on them.
I understand a larger handed person wanting something that feels more substantial, but I believe they perform better with an appropriately sized handle.
 
Indeed, it would have been easier to strip had I taken the head off.

Unfortunately, I lack the requisite patience to tackle thinning the handle and re-hanging the head. My results in such endeavors are normally less than stellar, often laughably so. Mad dope respect to the fellas here who enjoy doing so. I dread the day my gransfors sfa needs a new helve.
 
Here's an example ( or two ) of what can be done with the handles in case nobody want's to completely read through the mini hatchet thread and find my 2019 post.

Appreciate this, I'll go study that original thread for more details. The pic is definitely helpful, handles look quite a bit thinner.
 
I didn't really go into detail before beyond that picture I just reposted, because I figured it was pretty straightforward but I'll try to do more of an in depth walkthrough this time.

to be clear a lot of people are fine with the handles as is, I just don't think they look right and feel they're a little thick for a head this size.
It's not necessary, but I can't leave them as is because there's so much potential for these to not only be a functional tool but to actually be a really really nice little tool.
 
Are these available anywhere that shipping is a bit more reasonable? $13 shipping on a $23 hatchet seems a bit much.
 
I remember when these and other mini-hatchets were popular, but was never convinced. I know they’re light, easy to carry, etc. and I get the appeal but do you guys really find them to be useful as an alternative to a regular hatchet?
 
I remember when these and other mini-hatchets were popular, but was never convinced. I know they’re light, easy to carry, etc. and I get the appeal but do you guys really find them to be useful as an alternative to a regular hatchet?
When the alternative is some dumb big chopper knife or not a full sized hatchet because of weight, they are a great tool.
You can have a hatchet on you when you don't think you need one, I've got one of these in my tackle box.
 
Are these available anywhere that shipping is a bit more reasonable? $13 shipping on a $23 hatchet seems a bit much.
I'm not sure, but for the cost of shipping it's best to order something else too .
I'm sure there's a hammer or small pry bar you could use.
 
The cost of shipping comment just set me off. I tried to order a couple of these for gifts and the shipping came up at $59.00. Have US companies heard of USPS Flat Rate ? Have they heard that Hawaii is actually a US State ? So no Sub-Zero hatchets for gifts from me !
 
Flat rate shipping can be difficult to charge automatically because it requires the items fitting into the specific flat rate box, and without the shipping calculator knowing if the order items can fit or not, it has no way of knowing if flat rate is a valid option. Most shipping calculators are not that complex. When you believe your items will qualify for flat rate shipping it's usually best practice to email the seller to ask if it's something they can do.

$15 shipping for one of them sounds about par for the course with current shipping rates. Shipping just is what it is these days, and it doesn't sound like they're gouging you on the shipping. The most expensive part of shipping in and of itself is sending anything at all, and it seems like the minimum cost has been generally rising lately without heavier packages being as badly effected.
 
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