Vertical Forge build

I like my vertical a lot, too. It's 10" pipe with 2" of wool. I'll be making a bigger one when I can afford more kaowool, longer billets need overlapping welding heats in this one.
 
Bill Burke said:
I made my last one with a piece on 14" industrial stainless chimney. 2" thick with a stuffing of rockwool between two .025 tubes of stainless. I the put in an inch of wool covered with satanite and ITC 100. worked great and only weighed about thirty pounds. When I relined it with castable and it now weighs like 150 lbs. takes longer to heat up and don't get any hotter than it used to.
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Bill, that's a great idea using double wall stainless flue pipe! The castable not so good. ;)
 
Don Hanson III said:
Bill, that's a great idea using double wall stainless flue pipe! The castable not so good. ;)
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Don, It actually worked really good. and looked cool too, polished stainless forge. when I cast it I used mizzu 3000, but if/whenI redo it I will use the super light weight refractory like the make the soft fire brick out of.
 
Bill Burke said:
Don, It actually worked really good. and looked cool too, polished stainless forge. when I cast it I used mizzu 3000, but if/whenI redo it I will use the super light weight refractory like the make the soft fire brick out of.
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Bill, the light weight stuff will work much better.
 
Hallo everybody! sorry in advance for my bad english ;)
Please give me advice on vertical design, i have some questions:
a) is the work "suspended" between doors, sustained only by the rebar/tang or should a bridge be built in whithin the openings?
b) in terms of eveness of the heating is there a special ratio to take into account when setting the doors distance from the ceiling/bottom? (i.e. should it have a tall roof or a deep bottom?)
c) which point is your favorite to install the temp probe?
d) do you use a muffle for improving heat treatment with this kind of forge?

Thank You very much, i plan to build mine but i wish trying not to vaste insowool and steel only to discover i did screw so much the design ;)
 
I just suspend my work in the forge by the handle unless I am working on a monster billet >10lbs (4.5 kilos) in which case I put a couple of fire bricks in the forge to set the billet on. I think that it is better to have a deep bottomed forge than a tall roofed forge. I have my buner coming itnto the forge about two inches off the bottom and my door 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the way up from the bottom.
 
Thank You Mr. Burke!
in fact You create a sort of firebrick column inside the chamber resting upon the bottom, do You?; i assume it doesn't affect heat distribution since the burner flame swirls around it reaching every empty area of the chamber. On the contrary welding a bridge through the openings may lead to the bridge itself "melting" in the not so long run...
I think i'll go with Your advice!!! and in case of heat treatment i'll stick a pipe inside, protruding through both the openings.
Have a nice day!

Stefano
 
yes that is right. Also my door is the same hight from the bottom as a fire brick standing on end is tall (9.5 inches)
 
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