Very impressed with the Ken Onion Work Sharp with Blade Grinder attachment

Strauss95 said:
In the past I always sort of looked down on powered systems. Not sure why. May have been because I felt high quality water stones were superior, or maybe I was just scared of ruining knives on a system that can grind away metal so fast. Whatever the case, I can no longer say I am not a fan lol. I am in LOVE with this new system. My only gripe now is that I may never use my Edge Pro again.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find like myself, when you've use the WSKOBGA to get a knife to the way you like, nothing says you can't go back to your EP for future sharpenings. That's what I've done at least with one knife. Now that I experienced a perfectly apexed knife, I went back to resharpening it on my DMT stones and glass ceramic.
 
Rey HRH said:
I think you'll find like myself, when you've use the WSKOBGA to get a knife to the way you like, nothing says you can't go back to your EP for future sharpenings. That's what I've done at least with one knife. Now that I experienced a perfectly apexed knife, I went back to resharpening it on my DMT stones and glass ceramic.
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure about that, mainly because setting up the work sharp is so much quicker and easier than the Edge Pro. It's very easy to just touch a knife up on the BGA, even more reason for me to use it over the edge pro. Don't want to have to go through all the time and effort of setting up the edge pro, getting my stones ready, possibly leveling stones, etc, to just touch a knife up. The Work Sharp with the BGA literally takes me 45sec to set up, find the existing angle with sharpie, then just a few passes on each side with 3 different belts. Then about 3min to take down and clean up.

I really wish I had bought the professional model of the Edge Pro, because then I could have bought the scissor attachment and actually had a good reason to use it over the work sharp. I don't really like sharpening scissors with it. The guide on the Ken Onion only matches up with certain scissors, and I haven't gotten great results freehanding on either set-up (BGA or standard WSKO). I really like the look of the attachment for the edge pro, looks like it would do a really nice job. It would be nice if they came up with some sort of an adapter to be able to run the attachment on the Apex, would still be cheaper than buying the Pro model.

While we are on the subject, any of you guys do much scissor sharpening with the Work Sharp?
 
Anyone tried sharpening any Emerson tanto blades on the KOWS? I don't have the BGA, I just use the guide.
 
Bobby3326 said:
Ok question, are your belts easily distinguished as to what side is the seam side? Both sides look identical on mine at the seam....I think one side feels rougher than the other..maybe?
Click to expand...

I know it's been a while, but I finally got a set of the linen stropping belts from WorkSharp... I also couldn't tell a difference in sides, but since the directions said "seam side out" (I couldn't tell that either), I wrote and asked them. Their reply was that there is no inside and outside to these belts (no rough or smooth side at least on my belts either)... they just said don't use edge leading since a knife could catch at the seam.

My guess is the enclosed instructions of "seam side out" were just copied from their leather belt instructions.
 
cbwx34 said:
I know it's been a while, but I finally got a set of the linen stropping belts from WorkSharp... I also couldn't tell a difference in sides, but since the directions said "seam side out" (I couldn't tell that either), I wrote and asked them. Their reply was that there is no inside and outside to these belts (no rough or smooth side at least on my belts either)... they just said don't use edge leading since a knife could catch at the seam.

My guess is the enclosed instructions of "seam side out" were just copied from their leather belt instructions.
Click to expand...

I, for one, appreciate you coming back to the group with the right answer.
 
cbwx34 said:
I know it's been a while, but I finally got a set of the linen stropping belts from WorkSharp... I also couldn't tell a difference in sides, but since the directions said "seam side out" (I couldn't tell that either), I wrote and asked them. Their reply was that there is no inside and outside to these belts (no rough or smooth side at least on my belts either)... they just said don't use edge leading since a knife could catch at the seam.

My guess is the enclosed instructions of "seam side out" were just copied from their leather belt instructions.
Click to expand...
Great thanks, atleast they answered you..I've yet to hear back from em...they should change the instructions to eliminate the confusion.
 
OK it's been a while since I've posted on here. I've used the BGA to get some awesome edges on our fairly decent set of kitchen cutlery. The thing is that these knives had rounded points (probably due to steeling them over the years we've had them), so the points were dull.

I'm going to try and get a few knives with some sharp points to try this out on before I start working on any of my CRK knives, but I was wondering if you guys are having any issues rounding the point on blades with the BGA? Quick note: If you are, did you trace it back to maybe turning the blade (bringing the handle back towards you) too much?

Thanks!
 
I don't have any issues with rounding the tip. (Don't ask me about grinding parts of my thumb studs however.)

I think the BGA with it's 1 inch width helps minimize the risks of tip rounding. You don't let the tip of the knife go past half the width of the belt; that is, when the knife tip is on the belt, you don't want the knife against less than half the width of the belt. If you think of the belt like a mattress and you lay your knife just against the portion of the mattress, then you can see the mattress would come up against the tip which would cause rounding.

Also, as you get to the tip, make sure the pressure is light.

And if you have to stop your stroke near the tip, don't slide the tip off the belt. Stop with the tip with at least half of the belt still under the knife and lift the knife off the belt that way.

I don't think turning the blade towards you too much gives you a rounded tip, it may give you a different bad result. I try to imagine perpendicular lines going to the knife edge and against the belt. On the straight part, that's easy. On the curved belly part, it's still a bit easy. As I continue towards the tip, I stop when the perpendicular line going to the knife edge hits the belt (or maybe I stop a hair short actually).
 
I have had the tip rounded on a knife i was just learning the bga on. I was running the tip to much in line with the belt. Fixed the tip and corrected my mistake and no issues anymore
 
I haven't had any issues with rounded tips, I keep the edge perpendicular to the belt and lift up on the handle slightly along the belly and tip to maintain a consistent angle.
 
Wanted to post here again to see if anyone had any new tips or info, or tried any diamond paste on the strops?

I think the biggest for me was running the motor slow on the first 2 belts, then ramping up the speed. By the time I was on the 12K belts, I was almost at full speed, but using a very light touch for pressure.

The tips are still a bit of a struggle for me. I have been playing with the paper wheels and get great tips on those. I just need more practice on the belts. I'll practice more on the BGA, and see how it goes.

How is everyone else doing with their setup?
 
Quick question for you guys on burr removal with this tool.

I've heard a few of you say that you are getting a nice, toothy edge by using an X65 belt then stropping with a worn 12K for a few passes, and I'm wondering how you do that, as it seems to take me several passes to fully remove the burr.

I think my issue is with either the speed and/or pressure, or even the belt progression I'm using, so please help if you can!

I sharpened some old kitchen knives for my mother-in-law tonight (not the greatest as far as steel goes) and I'm wondering if there is a better way to do what I did. Here's what I did:


BGA set to 15 degrees, with the following belt/speed/pressure progression:

  • Basically I ran the X65 at a medium speed, and only long enough to get a nice, full-length burr, then I moved up to the X22. I'm applying some force on the blade here, but it really just seems like I'm resting my fingers against the top and back of the blade. I wouldn't say I'm pushing down on it, but I'm holding it against the belt.

  • I ran the X22 at a few clicks higher speed, and use it long enough to remove most, if not all of the burr (it kind of flakes off). I'm using less force on the blade here than in the previous step.

  • Finally I ran the 6K belt at full speed for several passes to make sure all the burr is off and the blade is sharp. I'm pretty much just using the weight of the blade here. I have my fingers on it to keep it steady, but I'm not really applying any downward pressure on it. Basically just trying to keep it "locked" into the same plane as I pull it across.


Now this gave me a nice, polished and sharp edge, but took more time then I would like, and did not give me the bite I want in a kitchen knife. I would say that it took me 10 + passes to remove the burr on these knives.


I'm wondering what you guys are doing differently that lets you go from an X65 to a worn 12k and remove the burr in a 2 or 3 passes? Are you running the 12k slow, or using some pressure?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!!!!
 
I started sharpening again yesterday in time for Thanksgiving.

I have learned that with any belt, the best results I get is from no pressure at all. I ran it from the 80 grit that I made from 3" x 18" (because lots of the kitchen knives has chips in it so I had to repair them) through the 120, and the other grits to the honing belt. I didn't go to the stropping belts as I feel it's not necessary.

In any case, i was barely letting the knife touch the belt, sort of like skimming. Yes, it took longer but I think i got better edges. I inspected using a 20x loupe. I didn't really worry about burr removal between stages, I just looked at the edge to see that it was a "good" edge. I took the burr off using a .25 micron diamond strop on basswood and a bare basswood. I don't think I needed it but I did about 5 passes each side on a leather strop also. I also ran the belt at or close to the fastest speed.

I've come to believe burrs are a function of the sharpening angle and the ductility of the metal.
 
Rey HRH said:
I've come to believe burrs are a function of the sharpening angle and the ductility of the metal.
Click to expand...

Agreed. It seems like the kitchen knives I was working on created a larger than normal, floppy burr. The thing that blows me away about the BGA is how fast you can generate a burr. It does take more time to remove the burr than it does to generate one (at least for what I'm doing), but that's fine.


I did some experimenting with some burr removal, and found that I can do it with several different belts, as well as the stropping belts with some different compounds. Speaking of which, I found a GREAT deal online for the stropping belts and have 5 boxes (10 belts) coming. I'm going to be doing some testing with some different compounds and techniques to see what works out best.


I also picked up a set of the X16 belts this time. I've only tried them on one knife, but they seem to be a great belt for burr removal and to leave a bit of a toothy/finished edge similar to the X22, without going full on polish like the X4. This should be a great belt for kitchen knives or EDC's that you want a bit more bite on.
 
bgentry said:
The big deal for me is that I would need to buy all of my belts again. Brian.
Click to expand...

Maybe not all of them. ;)

The Blade Grinding Attachment includes one each of the following 1" x 18" belts:
•P120
•X4
•X22
•X65
•12,000

P.S. I tried shooting you an email, but don't know if it went through. I've heard that there are some issues with the email system after the update.
 
Ordering the Ken Onion for Christmas and now it looks like I will also be getting the grinding attachment.

Need some advice from the pros: Once I practice on some of my crappier knives, which setup do you think is best for my factory edge pocket knives (Case and GEC)? Should I use the standard Ken Onion or go with the grinder? And what about angle and belt progression for one of those slippies that have never been sharpened?

Thanks!
 
eric0822 said:
Ordering the Ken Onion for Christmas and now it looks like I will also be getting the grinding attachment.

Need some advice from the pros: Once I practice on some of my crappier knives, which setup do you think is best for my factory edge pocket knives (Case and GEC)? Should I use the standard Ken Onion or go with the grinder? And what about angle and belt progression for one of those slippies that have never been sharpened?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Just go straight to the grinder attachment.

The standard belt set starts with an extra coarse 120 grit, ~120 micron but that's for repair for when your edge has chips or you decide to change the bevel angle. then the next grit is Coarse 220 grit, 65 micron which I suppose is for when you don't need to repair any chips but the knife's condition will take a bit to sharpen. Then Medium 800 grit, 22 micron they label for sharpening. If nothing's wrong with your blade except it's a little dull then you can start with this. Then domes a "honing belt" at 3000 grit, 4 micron. followed by an extra fine hone at 12000 grit, ~1.5 micron.

I would start with a black sharpie on the edge, run the knife maybe 3 times across the sharpening belt and look at the result under 10 to 20 x magnification. To see if you need some high spots to work on.

Most people are fine with 15 degrees and if you're just starting, you can use that see how that holds up for you.

My best advise is at whatever angle and whichever blade, use no pressure at all other than to make the blade keep in contact with the belt. There's a temptation to bear down to speed the process but that's counter productive and might damage your knife either through losing at the temper at the edge or introducing a recurve. At any pressure, understand that you're tending to put in a convex bevel and perhaps even rounding off the knife edge instead of sharpening it to a straight edge.

I run very near the top speed and just hold the knife lightly to keep in contact with the belt. Let the belt do the work. I think it will make them last longer also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top